PID controller tuned then goes unstable after about 100 miles

[drumnbasslvr]

2016 Challenger, lowered compression, 6.4, bored 10 over, big custom cam, pro charger 190kpa, water meth injection on 4psi and above, deka 80, kenne bell boostapump.

I've used the PID instructions listed on the popular topic, I have a great idle in park now, I have a great idle in drive at a stop, or cruising. What I mean by great is very tame as I can feel. The car does not try to lunge forward at a stop in drive anymore, it does not surge anymore. Then if I leave settings alone where I am happy with it, after about 100 miles, the car will begin surging in coasting conditions, it will stall approaching a stop light, and demonstrate bad behavior as if I never tuned the idle to begin with. I'll provide the tune file for consideration.

I know dodge has quite a few adaptations. How do I turn the idle adapt off so I can set and forget?

Also, knock in drive when not fully heat soaked. Scratching my head on that one too.

The car is an absolute pleasure to drive when these two things do not happen. Spanks a hellcat.

Tune file will open with beta software.

[Party340]

Tune will not open.

[McCloud]

Did you get it figured out? if not I have some thoughts on what may be causing the issue.

[malikib]

Did you get it figured out? if not I have some thoughts on what may be causing the issue.

what are your thoughts?

[McCloud]

looking through your Idle torque settings some of the derivative, proportional, and integral settings have been modified quite a bit. Did you log to account for those settings? I'm wondering if the settings are causing it to continue to adjust until it's out of line. I'm guessing based on my understanding of those tables, but it should be using the typical mathematical rules. Just not sure exactly how the algorithm in the PCM has it referencing those tables. Maybe it continues to adjust accross the RPM range and therefore those should have consistent ranges.

[kenandjenn4551]

I assume your still running in closed loop. Fueling is a major factor in idle quality and I've found that larger cams like to idle on the rich side to account for the overlap.

In closed loop, the trims are constantly learning and building adaptives.

My car is NA, but I run it 100% of the time in open loop. I've found idle tuning to be much better this way.

The only downside is that it will require an extensive amount of work on the rest of the VE table.

Concerning the knock.... if you have 2618 pistons, they will take some time to heat up and may be noisy until they get up to temperature. I have 2618's and I will register tons of knock until around 140-160* coolant temps.

I've just learned to ignore it. I don't even attempt to start logging until I reach full operating temperature. I know my warm up fuel is good... so I don't even worry about it.

Running full open loop... I can achieve +/- 1-3% VE error.... which is better than most people get with closed loop enabled.

The narrowbands just struggle, at a point, to handle the overlap from the cam. Since it idles good for a while... it sounds like fueling adaptives are kicking in on you.

[drumnbasslvr]

Updated tune and had a fair amount of improvement.

tune22.hpt