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Thread: Turbo 3.7, 410 RWHP at 8 psi, Should I keep pushing?

  1. #1
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    Turbo 3.7, 410 RWHP at 8 psi, Should I keep pushing?

    Hi,

    I finally got back on a dyno after a few months and after fixing a few things in my setup (3.7 V6 Mustang, TT, 8psi). I've received a lot of help from this forum along the way. Through 8 pulls and modifying the timing in the tune I was able to peak out at 410 Hp. The ECM was still adding a few degrees of timing and the injectors still have some room. There's a dip in torque around 5700, after that is when the ECM begins to add in timing.

    This is my first time tuning anything so I'm looking for any areas of concern as I push timing higher. I don't have a specific goal, but I'll probably keep tweaking it until it's over 450 HP. Is there anything I'm not looking at as I push for more hp?

    Thanks,

    Noah
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  2. #2
    Senior Tuner SultanHassanMasTuning's Avatar
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    post a grapgh of the dyno pull, depending on boost level the stock valve springs could be a issue
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  4. #4
    Senior Tuner SultanHassanMasTuning's Avatar
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    didnt see the logs, but it should be a small knock
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  5. #5
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    Thanks, I probably phrased that incorrectly. It is not knocking at all. The ECM is advancing the timing, not retarding timing.

  6. #6
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    I'd aim for 425 rwhp and stop unless you have money for a new engine buildup and install.
    Knock Retard is the reduction or prevention of knock by lowering ignition timing:

    (+) Adding Knock Retard = Reducing Timing. PCM is seeing knock.
    (--) Lowering Knock Retard = Increasing Timing. PCM isn't seeing knock.
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    Senior Tuner CCS86's Avatar
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  8. #8
    Senior Tuner CCS86's Avatar
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    For the record I am playing the same game running 13-14psi on a stock Coyote.

    Everything looks pretty decent on that run. You are hitting knock threshold at a fairly low advance. Any more boost you add will cost you more advance. It becomes a game of diminishing returns where the extra boost is putting extra mechanical stress on the engine, but not returning the same HP gains. I'd probably keep the boost the same and throw octane booster in when you want more power. I don't think you mentioned what fuel you are running. I assume 93.

    Also, ditch all channels marked "SAE", if there is a non-SAE version available. They refresh much more slowly. For example, your STFT's (one of the most important channels) are refreshing at roughly once per second. No bueno. Clear out the SAE channels, and get rid of non-essentials, so everything else refreshes faster.

    You have a ton of unimportant throttle related channels. I just run pedal position and actual ETC angle. Air load and absolute load are the same, with a moved decimal point. Idle trim doesn't matter on the dyno. Desired cam and throttle angles don't really matter unless you suspect a control issue. LTFT appear to be disabled.

    Also, not sure why your injector pw is reporting such enormous values.