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Thread: 6.4 Hemi Wrangler tuning ideas

  1. #1
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    6.4 Hemi Wrangler tuning ideas

    Hello all,
    I just completed swapping a 6.4 Hemi into a 2008 Wrangler, it's up and running but in dire need of tuning. I am pretty good with the hands on stuff but this type of tuning is all new to me so I am looking for a little direction before I make any changes. I purchased the MPV2 with the wideband option but I haven't installed the wideband yet, I am looking to improve the drivability for now, any advice would be appreciated. Here is what I'm working with.

    2008 Wrangler Rubicon
    2106 6.4 Hemi from a SRT Challenger
    G238 6 speed manual transmission
    35x12.5 tires
    Computer and harness from Hotwire.com I believe the computer is from a 2010 Ram truck

    The main issues are throttle hang and it seems to shut down on hard acceleration if I ease into it it's okay.
    I did find a tune file for a stock 2016 6.4/6 speed Challenger and compared to what I have and it's different in almost every way, I have heard not to make to many changes at once so just wondering where to start. I have attached the tune that Hotwire provided. Thanks.

    Gary

    @rockystock
    Attached Files Attached Files

  2. #2
    Well you?re restricted by the pcm installed , if i were you i would check the tune from a 2011 tune to see what your strategy is

    You need a wideband asap to see the afrs amd adjust from there . Are there any dtc?

  3. #3
    Hi Gary.

    The biggest problem with our setup (NGC PCM with a base 5.7 operating system) is that we're trying to run a 6.4 on a base 5.7 OS, and borrowing some table values from a newer PCM with more sophisticated OS etc... But I guess our setups are most similar to the folks out there who bored and stroked their 5.7 and installed a slightly hotter cam... This is why the stock 6.4 tables get you closer, but some custom adjustments are still needed.

    I've attached my recent tune. It has many, many changes, but the most critical adjustments were intended to match the stock 2016 6.4 tunes so you should see a lot of similarity between this tune and the '16 Challenger 6.4. If you decide to use any of these parameters, be very careful and especially watch the axis values. The VCM Editor has a nice template editor / template applicator you can use to transfer settings over to your tune. You can make a template from my file and very quickly copy the tune over to yours; but I'd recommend manually editing your tables for now and look closely at all parameters before using them.

    Our setups are fairly similar, but there are some differences worth noting:
    - I'm running a stock 5.7 Ram intake manifold with a JSS intake adapter, stock airbox, and AEV snorkel
    - My engine has a set of Total Seal gapless rings, so my combustion pressures may be slightly different from stock.
    - My exhaust is also a little different from yours
    - I run a 180* thermostat
    These differences mean that your setup will need some additional adjustments to further dial it in.

    Some notes:

    STARTUP:

    Desired Airflow: You will see that the startup airflow table in your tune is a 2D table, but the '16 tune is 3D. The axes on the '16 tunes is mislabled - it shows airflow going from 331 lb/hr down to 24 lb/hr horizontally, but the horizontal axis should be Engine Coolant Temperature. I took the '16 values and transposed them into the vertical axis on my tune. You can compare these airflow values and see that they are comparable to earlier 6.1 tunes.

    FA Cold Enrich (Fuel -> Open Loop / Base -> Cold/Warmup - Gas): This table is also mislabled on the horizontal axis (I think). The axis should read "Engine Run Time" in seconds, and I had to multiply the engine run time in my logs by around 2.6 to get this table tuned better. My table has adjustments that your engine will probably like better, but you won't be able to adjust yours until you get your wideband installed.

    IDLE:

    - The engine run time seems a little off on most of these tables, so I adjusted most of mine to try to emulate how the stock setups ramp down in RPM after startup.
    - I have my base RPM set to 752. I was having trouble with launching from the stock 648 RPM. This setting isn't critical so moving it around isn't a big deal.

    - Airflow: These tables establish the Proportional, Integral, and Derivative idle control. My setup didn't like the stock 6.4 settings (I had a ~300 RPM cyclic surge). My tune isn't perfect but it idles much better now. I'd recommend trying my settings, and if you need to adjust, study the other threads one here for idle control to better understand what the adjustments do. Definitely check out @06300CSRT8 thread here: https://forum.hptuners.com/showthread.php?57105-How-To-Idle-Tuning-a-NGC-PID-Controlled-Setup&highlight=ngc


    AIRFLOW:

    I have Sensed MAP enabled and Barometric Pressure Learning disabled. These settings help out with transients and general airflow estimation by the PCM. I'm running a snorkel so I think with Baro learning enabled, the barometric pressure would get "learned" too low and screw up airflow calculations too much.

    - Min Airflow vs. RPM vs. Baro - I haven't found any stock tunes that can help much with this one. The '16 tunes don't have the table at all. So I've been experimenting with it. [If anyone else reading this has any good insight into this table, please let me know haha].

    - Dynamic Airflow -> Manifold Volume - My setup uses the stock 5.7 Ram intake manifold with the Jeep Speed Shop intake adapter. I took the stock volume of the 5.7 Ram intake and added the volume of the adapter (actually measured it by filling the adapter with water and pouring into a graduated container). Enter the known volume of your Edelbrock intake manifold, and any adapters you may also have between the manifold and the throttle body.

    - Speed Density - with the Artificial Neural Network enabled, the VE tables will not affect the PCM estimates much if at all. My tune keeps the stock 5.7 values. If you ever try turning off the ANN, you'll be adjusting these VE tables to correct fueling.

    - Charge Motion Device - this is the Short Runner Valve on the stock intakes. You don't have it so just leave it disabled. I don't think mine is working anyway haha.

    - Variable Camshaft - OK this one is important and will save you quite a bit of time. Short story: the cam angles between the 5.7 and 6.4 are around 7 to 10 degrees different. The 5.7 - based PCM (which is what we have) shows the cam fully advanced at ~127*; fully retarded at ~89*. These are Exhaust cam values - the hemi cam is considered an "exhaust" cam in the PCM. the Hotwire base tune has the cam VVT disabled. My tune is similar to the stock '16 Challenger 6.4 tune. I have the part-throttle advanced a little from full retard to try to bump up the low-load, low-RPM torque. I've played with the cam settings quite a bit over the last year and found that keeping the cam mostly retarded (near-stock) at light throttle cruising keeps the exhaust noise down. As you get more comfortable adjusting things, this is probably one area where you could advance the cam further down low for better torque, especially if your rig is quieter/more tolerable. BTW, the intake cam settings are not used by the PCM, but I kept mine updated to be consistent with the exhaust settings just in case they do affect something... Lobe separation on stock 6.4 cam is 241 degrees, so for the intake tables, I copy the exhaust tables into the intake, multiply entire table by negative 1, and then add 241.

    EDIT 4/29/21: OK so that last sentence was not correct for our NGC4 PCMs. Yes, the 6.4 cam lobe separation is 241 degrees, but the NGC4 PCM also features a fixed lobe separation that can't be modified. If you choose to match your intake tables with your exhaust, you'll need to use the 5.7 lobe separation of 228.5 instead of 241. Getting the lobe separation correct will be especially important if you decide to tune the neural network using the Neural Network Trainer.

    When you do this, keep an eye on some of the cells because sometimes one of the corner cells may stay at zero or something, probably operator error.

    - MAX TIP - I think we don't have access to some tables that affect MAX TIP, but this table definitely works. You can see that in the '16 tune, MAX TIP is disabled, so my tune effectively disables it by simply matching the Normal table.

    - Neural Network - Keep the 5.7 settings. HP Tuners version 4.8 has a brand new feature called the VE Neural Network Trainer. I'd recommend trying to find a professional tuner that is comfortable tuning the network, but that may take a while because the feature just came out a few days ago. Looks straightforward so maybe the pros will be up to speed fairly soon. EDIT 4/29/2021: I've tuned my neural network and it is definitely the way to go. I'd recommend doing it if you have some time over a month. It is somewhat tedious and time consuming, but once the network is dialed in, EVERYTHING works better. One very nice benefit is that you could play more with your cam settings with minimal airflow calculation errors, meaning your fuel trims won't go out of whack.

    FUEL:

    EDIT 4/29/2021: If you tune using the Neural Network Trainer, you will need to return your fuel injector tables to stock values. If you're not tuning the neural network then the following applies. With the ANN (artificial neural network) enabled, you will correct your fuel trims by adjusting the fuel injector pulse width. I've also re-scaled my injector tables to put more breakpoints in the WOT region, for better AFR control. Several threads on here worth studying on how to log and adjust your fueling. I bought the Tuning School Dodge beginners book, but honestly the other threads on here explain it just as well or better.

    - O2 Sensors - I haven't been able to get my setup to stop throwing codes for the rear O2s, so mine are disabled by maxing out the closed loop enable ECT setpoint. You'll need to chase this problem down to satisfy your emissions regulations. I'm pretty sure there are additional tables that HP Tuners may be able to add that can help with this problem (compare what you have to the '16 tunes). Let me know if you get any added. According to Mopar literature available out there, the rear O2s actually are used in part to adjust the front O2 sensors' goal voltage, which will affect fueling. So the engine will probably run somewhat better with all sensors running in closed loop.

    - O2 Airflow Delay - These tables tell the PCM how long it takes for an exhaust pulse to register at the O2 sensors. My tables are copied over from the stock '16 tables because I'm running the stock exhaust manifolds with sensors in the stock locations. I'd recommend using the tables that best match your manifolds (i.e., stock Grand Cherokee manifolds -> GC tables). I've tried playing with these tables, but the response is difficult to decipher.

    - Transient

    - Burn Fraction Inverse - not much discussion on this forum on this table. I'm pretty sure the "Airmass" axis is also mislabeled, should be Engine Run Time. I've been experimenting with this one as well and whatever it does seems to be subtle. Probably leave it at stock '16 tune levels. EDIT 4/29/2021:
    The BFI compensates for cooler combustion chamber / cylinder wall temperatures after startup. You can see in the table that the burn fraction compensation is needed less and less up to normal operating ECT and the first few minutes of run time. The actual value of BFI that the PCM commands is initially, fairly consistent with the table, but as run time and temperature go up, BFI will vary according to transient conditions, from 1.000 up to the value in the table. I've found that keeping the BFI at stock values works OK; but you may want to adjust BFI after airflow/fueling is dialed in.


    - Acceleration / Deceleration gain tables - I was able to get HP Tuners to add these tables, and they help control the lean or rich spikes on sudden changes in throttle or fueling. They definitely help with some drivability issues. Recommend adjusting these after the base fueling and spark is dialed in.

    SPARK:

    Mostly a close match to the stock '16 Challenger 6.4 tune.

    - Part Throttle VVT Tables - You'll see in the '16 tunes that the VVT tables are disabled. I can't disable them in my tune, but I did copy the values over from the stock '16 tables and this tune is running OK for me. Setting all the VVT tables to the Part Throttle Base table hasn't worked for me so far (knocking here and there), so I keep them as they are in this tune. It's REALLY difficult trying to figure which table is being used at what instant, and where timing needs to be adjusted etc...

    My WOT tables are down a bit to minimize knock retard. You won't be able to dial in these tables for performance on the street, so I don't go any higher than the stock tables. The biggest difference is in the WOT Thermal base table. This table goes active when I'm going uphill, around 3000-4000 RPM. The catalytic converter temperatures reach the cat overtemp. protection setpoints and the PCM starts adding fuel and moving timing based on that table. I was getting some significant knocking in this scenario, so I adjusted the table to match the WOT Lockpin table (I think) which is WAY lower than the stock WOT Thermal table. When you get around to tweaking this table, keep in mind the vertical axis differs from the WOT base and Lockpin tables... I'm sure this table could be adjusted higher than what I have, but I'll let a pro do it someday...

    - ECT Base Corrections - I'm running a 180* thermostat, and my tune has several ECT-related table axes adjusted down as a result. You'll want to leave those tables at stock '16 values if you're running the 203* tstat.

    - Knock Thresholds - I adapted mine to more closely match the stock '16 tune. Problem is the newer tunes use 3D tables where ours are only 2D. That's as far as I've gone with toying with those tables. Many folks on here say there are gains available by desensitizing the sensors (moving the threshold voltages up) a little, but I'll let a pro do that someday.

    TORQUE MODEL:

    I've found through trial-and-error that the Torque/Airflow Factor and Torque/Airflow Offset adjustments help to get the airflow calculations to better match reality. So what's reality? Not sure, but I've been trying to make adjustments in this table and others with the end goal to get the fuel injector tables closer to stock values.

    TORQUE MANAGEMENT:

    Most of these tables are up to your own preference. These are the probably the tables the aftermarket "pedal commanders" modify. My tune is somewhat similar to the stock '16 tunes (look at Mode 7 in those tunes I think). For the low pedal voltage areas of the Power % Request table, a little goes a long way. HPT says the "Pedal Expected" table must be an inverse of the Power % Requested table, but my settings are working just fine.

    Again, be careful! Hopefully this will get you closer to good more quickly.

    2020-09-11 ANN Tune Run 471.hpt

    2020-09-18 ANN Run 471.hpl

    EDIT: I forgot to mention - I was able to finally get rid of the throttle / RPM hanging while shifting, by cutting the Torque Model -> Loss -> Friction Base table in half (I multiplied the table by 0.5).
    Last edited by rockystock; 04-29-2021 at 01:18 AM.

  4. #4
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    good info

  5. #5
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    Wow! thank you, definitely a lot of great info here you have been busy, and thank you for breaking it down like you did this will help me resist making too many changes at once. I will let you know how it goes.

  6. #6
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    Thanks, surprisingly no dtc's. I do need to get the wideband going.

  7. #7
    Recommend putting your wideband as close to a front narrowband as possible.

  8. #8
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    So far so good with the tune, idle and low speed are vastly improved. I do have a question, how did you wire up your wideband? I have the Pro link cable and a wideband sensor but I can't seem to find any info on how to wire it up. There is plenty of info about using an aem gauge but I just want to use it for tuning. Can the sensor be wired directly to the Pro link or is there some sort of interface needed?

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by gkrumz View Post
    So far so good with the tune, idle and low speed are vastly improved. I do have a question, how did you wire up your wideband? I have the Pro link cable and a wideband sensor but I can't seem to find any info on how to wire it up. There is plenty of info about using an aem gauge but I just want to use it for tuning. Can the sensor be wired directly to the Pro link or is there some sort of interface needed?
    I used the AEM 30-0300 which has a gauge and OBD2 adapter. This video may help:

    https://youtu.be/u_LRPb3l1DU

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by gkrumz View Post
    So far so good with the tune, idle and low speed are vastly improved. I do have a question, how did you wire up your wideband? I have the Pro link cable and a wideband sensor but I can't seem to find any info on how to wire it up. There is plenty of info about using an aem gauge but I just want to use it for tuning. Can the sensor be wired directly to the Pro link or is there some sort of interface needed?
    You will also need to purchase the Pro software in addition to the prolink
    2004 jeep LJ
    Stock supercharged 4.0, 36lb injectors, 62mm bbk throttle body.
    2017 f250 6.7 Diesel
    2020 Explorer 2.3 ecoboost

  11. #11
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    Hi guys, my apologies for jumping in here. Looking for any opinions and/or advice. Also a big thanks to rockystock for throwing out all the info!! I am starting a hemi install in a few weeks and trying to put together a few last pieces of parts to order. Vehicle is 2018 Wrangler JL Sport 6 speed and is receiving a 2007 non-VVT stroker with a T56 magnum 6 speed. I need to order a new harness and wondering if I should use a 5.7 or 6.4 harness? My guess would be they are near identical save for throttle body plug?? If I have to modify harness for plug ends or some pigtail lengths that's no problem. That leads into what ECM would be best to purchase.. an older 5.7 Challenger ecm then modifying tune to deal with the extra displacement and cam or newer 6.4 Challenger ECM so base tune is already much closer and deleting VVT option. The engine is on the stand with 32 tooth reluctor but I can swap to the 58 before final assembly if needed as well.

    Gary, since you just did swap in JK I'm curious on a few of the components you used in your swap. Did you need to modify any of the fuel supply components or are they able to keep up with the extra demand? Also did you switch to an aftermarket radiator? The factory cooling fan assembly in my JL is a monster which I will retain but I am wondering what kind of hurdles I will face with commanding it out of the ECM since it doesn't use the standard relay set up the JK's had with the integrated power modules. Same with the fuel system control... they switched to a pulse width modulated arrangement with the fuel pump but I think even if the pump module is fed a steady 12 volts it will just dump any excess back in the tank from the integrated regulator.

    Any and all advice is greatly appreciated !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    Jeff

  12. #12
    As for the PCM, you probably will not run an NGC or anything older than GPEC2 because the rest of your CANBUS system runs at the newer, higher frequency. It may be possible to use your jeep's original PCM and simply re-tune for the hemi, not sure. Your best bet would be to call Chris at Hotwire Auto for his best solution. Another option - call Dakota Customs - I know they've done JLs with manual trans hemis.

    In general, I'd recommend using an operating system from an engine that most closely matches the displacement of your stroked engine. Any unmapped parameters would be more closely matched to your engine that way, hopefully fewer tuning headaches.

    Sounds like a strong and fun setup. Good luck!

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by rockystock View Post
    As for the PCM, you probably will not run an NGC or anything older than GPEC2 because the rest of your CANBUS system runs at the newer, higher frequency. It may be possible to use your jeep's original PCM and simply re-tune for the hemi, not sure. Your best bet would be to call Chris at Hotwire Auto for his best solution. Another option - call Dakota Customs - I know they've done JLs with manual trans hemis.

    In general, I'd recommend using an operating system from an engine that most closely matches the displacement of your stroked engine. Any unmapped parameters would be more closely matched to your engine that way, hopefully fewer tuning headaches.

    Sounds like a strong and fun setup. Good luck!
    Thank you! I will try to contact Hotwire and see what they recommend. I have reached out to Dakota numerous times but never received a response, I would have happily bought some items from them. I just checked the ecm diagrams for my JL in comparison to a 2018 challenger srt and the exact same pins are used in injector and coil controls (along with same wire colors even). The two extra cylinders are in sequence on empty pins so retuning my ecm might be a very viable option. Thanks again, should have looked deeper into that right at the beginning :/

  14. #14
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    Hey Jeff,
    My jeep is a 2008 so it could be quite a bit different from yours but this is what worked for me.
    I didn't change the fuel system at all and have no issues and on mine there is no return line to the tank, just a supply and vapor return so "dumping back to the tank" wouldn't be an option.
    For cooling I went with a CR Racing radiator and a penstar fan controlled by a RPM Extreme module, so far it all works very well but the temps have been cool I won't know for sure until the summer. I don't know where you are located but if you live in a cooler area your system may be adequate and you may be able to control your fan functions with a good tuner.
    Good luck with the swap! and let me know how it goes with the T-56 install.

    Here is a link for the fan control
    http://www.rpmextreme.com/Product/28...CONTROLER.aspx

  15. #15
    Hey rockystock, i have a 69 Charger that we transplanted a 6.4l and put a tremec 5 speed manual behind it. I have a huge throttle hang issue that makes shifting the car annoying. hot wire provided the ecm but has no solutions for the hang. It looks like you may have cracked the programming. Would you be able to help if i sent you the ecm? thank you

  16. #16
    This is a timely post! I thought I had tamed that throttle hang beast. My hanging was gone for months, but then came back just yesterday while driving around in some high heat (not sure the heat was a factor). Come to think of it, I think I also had the ac on, so that may have also been a factor. Seems to me like the engine speed control (especially at elevated RPM while shifting) is a delicate balance of torque compensators and transient fueling, and some of those are available to adjust in the tune file. The one parameter that (for me) had the greatest effect on the hang seems to be the engine friction base table - it tells the PCM how much commanded torque to add to compensate for the internal engine friction. The stock 6.4 table is not smooth, so it looks like the factory started with some theoretical plot and made some adjustments during development...

    I'd recommend highlighting all of the cells in your engine friction base table and multiplying it by 0.5. See if that helps. If you still have the hang, you might try zeroing out the table (I have not tried that yet, but I will be soon).

    if you have a chance, post your tune and maybe a log file. I think if you still have some base VE adjustments to make, that can also have an effect on the hang.

  17. #17
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    Rockystock,

    I've got a 2011 Jeep JK with a 392 and 238 Getrag. It's pretty much a stock 392; stock intake manifold, injectors, TB, exhaust manifolds, non-MDS lifters and cam. I've been able to transfer over most of the 2016 Challenger Manual 6.4 tables over to the NGC4. Certainly a time consuming process.

    I'm still not sure I've got the cam right just yet, it definitely wont idle on its own.

    Do you mind looking over the log and give me your thoughts?


    2011 JK 392 238Getrag tune read Aug 19 2021 with Rockstock tables.hpt
    2011 jk 392 238 getrag log Aug 25, 2021.hpl
    Last edited by Grayhog; 08-29-2021 at 06:31 PM.

  18. #18
    Hey Zack,

    That's a scary log. Big idle troubles...

    I suspect you might be better off by starting with a set of stock 392 idle PID parameters, largely because you're using the stock 392 intake manifold (attached file includes stock 392 idle parameters). If your idle hunting doesn't go away but is otherwise better, I'd recommend checking out the great thread by 06300CSRT to help dial it in:

    https://forum.hptuners.com/showthrea...light=ngc+idle

    I'm running the stock 5.7 Ram intake with a rather large adapter between the intake and throttle body - my setup liked the stock 5.7 Ram parameters as a starting point.

    The cam settings won't affect your idle, because the cam goes to fully advanced near idle and there are currently no tables mapped by HP Tuners that can change that.

    Since my original post and tune files on this thread, I've moved on to tuning using the Neural Network Trainer. I've found the NNT to be far better than the previous method of adjusting the injector pulse width.

    I'm attaching a newer file that has modified NN settings that closely approximate the stock 392 Hemi when applied to our operating system (I double checked to verify your operating system is the same as mine, 68054009AC). Basically this file ought to function as a better baseline tune for your setup. You will no doubt find some fuel trim errors beyond +/- 5% that you'll want to tune out, so you could adjust this tune using the fuel injector tables until you get into tuning with the NNT.

    Some additional thoughts:

    • If you're running the stock 203F thermostat, you'll want to put your temperature settings back to the Hotwire Auto tune. When you've decided which thermostat you want to run long-term, I'd recommend getting a Pentastar fan (2012+) and the RPM Extreme standalone fan controller - it works very well, but the temperature settings are set by them and cannot be changed without sending the unit back.
    • The part throttle VVT spark tables are all set to the base part throttle table, because the stock 392 tunes (that I've seen) all have the VVT spark tables disabled.
    • The WOT Thermal spark tables are bumped up a bit. I finally stopped getting knock when going into Cat Overtemperature (COT) protection (which also moves into the WOT Thermal spark tables). These tables are still not quite back to stock 392 values but they are closer.
    • Several smaller, more subtle changes. For the most part, the attached tune returns most parameters to near-stock 392 because the better neural network settings help other parameters work best at near-stock 392...
    • Your Short Runner Valve (SRV) probably does not work. I'm using the MSD 8969 (RPM window switch) and it seems to be working (torque doesn't seem to die off as much as before in the top end, but it is subtle). Not sure the window switch was worth the cost and time to install.
    • Definitely get a wide band O2 sensor installed asap. Can't tune WOT (or any other open loop condition) without it. I'd recommend not doing any WOT until you can see and tune it. My setup is dialed in well enough that even just 3% lean (i.e., leaner than commanded) will result in some knock retard at WOT.
    • You should be able to load this file directly to your PCM; but I'd recommend copying the changes into a new file so you will see every change and either use it or not. If you do try the neural network settings, you'll need to ensure that every parameter under the "Neural Network" tab is identical to the attached file.


    Hope this helps you. Let me know how it goes!

    2011 JK 392 238Getrag tune read Aug 19 2021 Stock-Like 392 Neural Network.hpt

  19. #19
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    bumping an old post. i also have a programmed ngc4 pcm from Hotwire for my 2006 Chrysler 300 392 swap. Like Gkrumz, my tune is exactly the same. i have an elementary question. my spark tables go to 5792 rpm while the newer os tables go to 6464 rpm. what happens above 5792 rpm with the old os? does the parameters from 5792 rpm remain the same flat to 6464 rpm? i hope i am being clear. should i change to tables to that of the newer os of the 2018 scat pack in which my engine came from? thanks in advance.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by PoppyPreston View Post
    bumping an old post. i also have a programmed ngc4 pcm from Hotwire for my 2006 Chrysler 300 392 swap. Like Gkrumz, my tune is exactly the same. i have an elementary question. my spark tables go to 5792 rpm while the newer os tables go to 6464 rpm. what happens above 5792 rpm with the old os? does the parameters from 5792 rpm remain the same flat to 6464 rpm? i hope i am being clear. should i change to tables to that of the newer os of the 2018 scat pack in which my engine came from? thanks in advance.
    I've always found it's better to scale the table to what YOUR operating range will be, if you think you'll be going over 6k often then yes change the table, if you are going to stay under 6k with occasionally hitting the high RPMS, leave the table as is.

    as for what happens , it uses the last cell to base calibrations off of.

    My 04 with the 468, these are the PT table, street WOT, and "track tune WOT ....the street WOT table's last cell is 24^ at 4512 RPMs, and I go through the traps at 7350ish, with how big this thing is I've found that on the street anything over 24^ is a total waste no Matter what the KPA is , hence why you don't see any 28^ or higher in the low KPA range ....... and at the track .....there's very little use of the Pt table.... and do to the size of the engine and HP(850RWHP) Normal driving around town the Pedal V hardly ever get above 1.9v , so this truck goes in to WOT at 1.90V of pedal ....in both tunes...................

    My around town Logs show it carries the 24^ in the street tune all the up to when I shift @ 6500 doing one of "stretch" it's legs at the traffic Light ventures.



    remember every vehicle is different so should every tune...
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