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Thread: Brushless spal fans/new radiator help

  1. #1
    Tuner
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    Brushless spal fans/new radiator help

    I want to triple check something since I?m already down the rabbit hole. The 2015+ Chevy Colorado apparently uses the same on radiator Fan motor as the camaro.

    And they are pwm fans controlled and tunable by hptuner.

    So the fabricator I?m using for some work had the idea of running a cbr radiator to save space and make the approach angle on the prerunner much better. Which it is. Also a better core radiator etc.

    He has a cbr radiator with a shroud and two fans in there which are not brushless (oem is one Fan) and he was going to add a temp sensor and tap into the wire harness that controlled the ac pump. This seemed too many things to fail, and since everything is resistance based I feared problems.

    So to get the fans to work off the stock ecu/bcm and wire harness; all I need is to replace the fans with brushless and then find out from spal if they are 0-5v or 5-0v. So same as oem or reversed and then change the hptune accordingly?

    Any other thing I need to worry about? My plan was to go from the oem single fan wire harness and split it ?Y? so both fans run at the same time, not staged.

    Thank you for any help.

  2. #2
    Potential Tuner
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    Sep 2020
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    Tampa, FL
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    I'll ask my brother about this. He's the expert mechanic of our home.

  3. #3
    Tuner
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    Thank you. Have the truck now. Fans are enroute. Would like to get the fan system back to rUnning on oem controls.
    Right now I’m hitting switches on my Spod when the water temp hits 218

  4. #4
    Tuner
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    So tried the green signal wire from the ecu to the white signal wire on the spal fan and leaving the yellow wire on the spal fan open.

    Nothing happened. Tried the ac, defrost and ran it to 223? and nada.

    So I Definitly need to either change the tune from pwm ev to something else... and/or change the ect Desired %

    I have copied the factory manual for diagnosing the pwm ev signal. Hoping someone can make sense of it and help me figure out what needs to be changed on the tune:

    Circuit/System Verification
    1. Ignition ON.
    Note: A slight delay may occur before the cooling
    fan activates.
    2. Verify the G10 Cooling Fan Motor activates in each
    available speed when commanding the cooling fan
    ON with a scan tool. The cooling fan speed should
    increase with each command.
    ⇒ The cooling fan does not activate or increase in
    speed as commanded
    Refer to Circuit/System Testing
    ⇓ The cooling fan activates and increases in
    speed as commanded
    3. Operate the vehicle within the Conditions for
    Running the DTC to verify the DTC does not reset.
    You may also operate the vehicle within the
    conditions that you observed from the Freeze
    Frame/Failure Records data.
    4. Verify the DTC does not set.
    ⇒ If the DTC sets
    Refer to Circuit/System Testing
    ⇓ If the DTC does not set
    5. All OK.
    Circuit/System Testing
    1. Ignition OFF, disconnect the harness connector X1
    at the G10 Cooling Fan.
    2. Ignition ON, verify that a test lamp illuminates
    between the B+ circuit terminal 2 and ground.
    ⇒ If the test lamp does not illuminate and the
    circuit fuse is good
    2.1. Ignition OFF, and all vehicle systems OFF, it
    may take up to 2 minutes for all vehicle
    systems to power down.
    2.2. Test for less than 2 Ω in the B+ circuit end
    to end.
    ⇒ If 2 Ω or greater, repair the open/high resistance
    in the circuit.
    ⇒ If less than 2 Ω, verify the fuse is not open and
    there is voltage at the fuse.
    ⇒ If the test lamp does not illuminate and the
    circuit fuse is open
    2.1. Ignition OFF, and all vehicle systems OFF, it
    may take up to 2 minutes for all vehicle
    systems to power down.
    2.2. Test for infinite resistance between the B+
    circuit and ground.
    ⇒ If less than infinite resistance, repair the short to
    ground in the circuit.
    ⇒ If infinite resistance, replace the
    G10 Cooling Fan.
    ⇓ If the test lamp illuminates
    Note: The cooling fan speed output circuit is
    pulled-up to a voltage within the ECM, 2-3 volts on
    the output circuit is normal.
    3. Connect a DMM, set on the diode setting, between
    the G10 Cooling Fan control circuit terminal 4 and
    ground.
    4. Verify the DMM reading is greater than 2.5 V or
    displays O.L. with the cooling fan
    commanded OFF.
    ⇒ If 2.5 V or less
    4.1. Ignition OFF, and all vehicle systems OFF, it
    may take up to 2 minutes for all vehicle
    systems to power down.
    4.2. Disconnect the harness connector X1 at the
    K20 Engine Control Module.
    4.3. Test for infinite resistance between the
    G10 Cooling Fan control circuit terminal 4 and
    ground.
    ⇒ If less than infinite resistance, repair the short to
    ground in the circuit.
    ⇒ If infinite resistance, replace the K20 Engine
    Control Module.
    ⇒ If greater than 2.5 V or displays O.L.
    5. Command the cooling fan ON to 90% with a
    scan tool.
    6. Verify the DMM reading is less than 1 V.
    ⇒ If 1 V or greater
    6.1. Ignition OFF.
    6.2. Disconnect the harness connector X1 at the
    K20 Engine Control Module, ignition ON.
    6.3. Test for less than 1 V between the
    G10 Cooling Fan control circuit terminal 4 and
    ground.
    ⇒ If 1 V or greater, repair the short to voltage on
    the circuit.
    ⇓ If less than 1 V.
    6.4. Ignition OFF, and all vehicle systems OFF, it
    may take up to 2 minutes for all vehicle
    systems to power down.
    6.5. Test for less than 2 Ω in the circuit end to end.
    ⇒ If 2 Ω or greater, repair the open in the circuit.
    ⇒ If less than 2 Ω, replace the K20 Engine Control
    Module.
    ⇓ If less than 1 V
    7. Replace the G10 Cooling Fan.

  5. #5
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    Awesome. So reverse the desired % and desired % vs ac and the fans work. I am just trying to find out why the ac and defrost don’t turn the fan on when the buttons on the dash are pressed.