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Thread: 2001 F250 5.4 issues

  1. #1

    2001 F250 5.4 issues

    Greetings all - have a potential tuning issue/question that I thought I'd throw on here to get some more experienced answers/guidance.

    Subject is a 2001 F250 with a 5.4 and automatic, 4wd. Owner brought to me to help get going for his daughter. Engine had been replaced approximately 2 years ago (long block), and it "never ran right" due to the "tune". Most of the 2 years had clearly been spent in a field (underbody rust). After reconnecting an engine ground strap, cleaning up electrical connections, a new starter, and a new fuel pump - it runs. But barely. I did the unplug-the-coil check and found some dead holes, so put in new spark plugs and coils on each. This made it run better, but still not well. Time to address the "never ran right" part.

    I asked for more information on the issue - but didn't get very far. Whomever replaced the long-block insists the computer needs to be "reflashed". For what reason, or from what to what, is a mystery. The VCM scanner doesn't show anything obvious as an issue:TPS, timing, RPM readings, MAF, intake temperature all seem to read fine. There is quite clearly a/multiple misfires still. I am aware that there are some small changes to the 5.4 across the model range (Excursion, Expedition, F-150, F-superduty, Lincoln, etc) - but none that would seem reasonable to made it not run at idle, as firing order, rough air flow needs, timing, etc should all be very close. I do not see any indication that it is a 3V 5.4 or any VVT connections.

    I'm leaning towards it actually not having the timing system aligned properly - it seems very much like when a timing set is off by a tooth or two. I plan on checking fuel pressure to be sure it's not an issue (regulator not replaced), then compression checking one of the "dead" holes before tearing down the front of the motor for a timing check.

    Suggestions on scan checks or tune issues people have seen?

    thanks,
    Jon

  2. #2
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    My first question would be any DTC CODES? I would pull the valve covers and pull the #1 plug verify TDC and look at where the cams are aligned, if i remember correctly cam sprockets should be close to 11 & 2 O'clock. Generally if the timing is off the valves will kiss, 5.4 like the 4.6 non free wheeling. have you done a compression test or leak down test. other things how old is the fuel? Fuel filter changed?

  3. #3
    No codes - the only one that has popped up at all (probably 10+ minutes of running) has been an intake temperature sensor code when I left that unplugged - whoops. I know valves can contact if timing is off significantly (such as a chain break or jump), but typically not an issue with being only slightly off. Fuel is new, fuel filter is new, regulator is old and I haven't done a pressure test yet (seems strange that would cause only a few misfires though so I doubt that's it). Compression check is 2nd on my list to do.

    The valve cover pull and check sounds more like what I'm looking for - I'd rather not tear the entire front of the motor off if there's an easier way to check the timing chain alignment. It is what it is though.

  4. #4
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    most common problem is water getting in the back cylinder killing the plug and cop.

    Put a new set of cops and plugs on her.

    Use only motorcraft / ford racing ignition components on a ford. As with all ford ignition systems all the afterward stuff for fords are all junk.

    Have you put new front o2s on it ?

    If your getting random misfires especially at idle then most likely the anti-misfire capacitor is bad. Youll see it bolted to the back of the intake area usually near the fuel rail. Its a one wire capacitor. Make sure its grounded well. That cap is used to prevent misfires most people are ignorant and toss it thinking mistakenly its used for cancelling noise to the radio like older cars from last century.

    Do you have a way to read and write binary files? If so LMK and I'll shoot you a tune for it.

  5. #5
    I'm confident in the coils and plugs at this point, although not Ford, they are new, and I've done in-line signal light testing. Will most likely replace with Ford components should we be successful in getting it going decently - but the $400 isn't in the cards yet. O2s are not new, but no codes, no zero or maxed mV values, and with the misfires I can't evaluate their patterns. The idle DOES improve as it warms up - which would tend towards ruling out O2 sensors, as they are ignored on startup.

    I have not heard of the anti-misfire capacitor, I will research that. I could certainly see someone tossing that on a rebuild!

    I do have HPtuners MPVI Pro. I haven't read or purchased write access yet, as I saw nothing to lead me towards a bad tune file. I compared a few various years of 5.4s in the tune repository and didn't find much of consequence. I will get a read soon, I'd be happy to compare it to any .bin file that should be relevant, and if/when I get write access I can see if yours works better.

  6. #6
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    have you checked the VCT Solenoid Issue needs 25psi or higher to function properly. If you have a Scanner you can graph the COP signals.. looks like you done quite a bit already..

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by mstang_man View Post
    have you checked the VCT Solenoid Issue needs 25psi or higher to function properly. If you have a Scanner you can graph the COP signals.. looks like you done quite a bit already..
    I was under the impression that only the 3V 5.4 had VVT/VCT. Perhaps I need to look again. I also didn't see COP signals - I'll have to check again.

  8. #8
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    no vct on the 2v

    and vct should have 35 psi minimum to function correctly