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Thread: trying to make 2012 chrysler 300 5.7 faster

  1. #1
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    Question trying to make 2012 chrysler 300 5.7 faster

    hello everybody i have recently been working with a friend on their car to tune it to be faster and also learn about tuning. ive done a little bit to it and we got it going up to 130mph and still climbing today with longer gearing but it is still sluggish i feel. attatched is the stock tune and the current one we have uploaded. i am looking for any suggestions to help make the car more fun and run faster and also want a second opinion on the tune i made so i dont blow his engine up.so far i have removed the limiter and fuel cutoff, raised the shift points to around 6000-6200. also lowered the WOT voltage so it has less throttle lag and removed all the torque limiters and moved the shifting tq limiters down by 10% and a few other things as you will see. any input is appreciated, and please feel free to judge me because i started tuning this week.

    2012 chrysler 300 stock tune.hpt
    tune #7 2012 chrysler 300 stock tune stock complete aggressive re-gearing 6200 rpm shifts no lim.hpt

  2. #2
    Advanced Tuner f.creek-ranch's Avatar
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    The common problem is the missing powerband of the 5.7.
    the purpose is to keep the 5.7 behind the 6.4.
    If you want to get in better powerband at gear change, you have to replace the cam.
    Above 5700 rpm there is no more gain.
    Ported throttle, another intake and cam makes a great difference.
    Most gain with stock engine comes from tranny software tweaking

  3. #3
    Tuner in Training jefo's Avatar
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    You probably want a rev limiter on there haha. 200-300 rpm above the shift point is good.

    For shift firmness changes go to Shift Pressures then Ramp Torque, and try multiplying the 2 far right columns by 1.3 or so for each gear shift and see how it feels. I would change this before reducing torque management.

    Also, you should throw a 180 thermostat in the car and lower the fan settings. It'll pick up some power from added timing. And intake air temps are important also - an open engine bay cone air filter is no good, if it has one. (aka hot air intake)
    Last edited by jefo; 03-16-2024 at 11:35 PM.
    2006 AWD 300C Turbo - stock 5.7, stock NAG1
    10.8@126mph on 12psi - WatTuned

  4. #4
    Advanced Tuner f.creek-ranch's Avatar
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    there is a lot of space for improvement.

    try to deactivate all Auto Trans Tq Mgt (w/o use spark A) and deactivate Upshift Torque Reduction to see how it feels.

    If its OK, set Fill Time a little bit lower.

    Set Ramp Torque till it "fits"

    Works for me in a 6.4 and has no shift lag on normal driving. Seems you can not really abuse this tranny.

    In Minimum Spark - Torque Reduction you can give less reduction.
    Last edited by f.creek-ranch; 03-16-2024 at 04:53 PM.

  5. #5
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    I agree with almost everything what was told above...
    - You should have a limiter (in case a shift goes wrong, you do not damage your engine)
    - Without a log, any suggestion is purely speculation
    - I am not a super fan of "multiply this column by x.xx". Each project is unique and it should be analyzed individually
    - I do not deactivate/disable "Auto Trans Tq Mgt". Doing so, decreases transmission lifetime exponentially (in my opinion it is not worth it). In case engine and transmission tune are paired and correctly done, you can keep it ON

    DodgeBoy.
    YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/@dodgeboy2785

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by f.creek-ranch View Post
    The common problem is the missing powerband of the 5.7.
    the purpose is to keep the 5.7 behind the 6.4.
    If you want to get in better powerband at gear change, you have to replace the cam.
    Above 5700 rpm there is no more gain.
    Ported throttle, another intake and cam makes a great difference.
    Most gain with stock engine comes from tranny software tweaking
    ok so lower the shift rps slightly until we put a cam in there, got it. and im going to remove shift limiters like you mentioned in the other comment and see how he likes it, i only moved it 10% because i wanted to do small changes and work up to full aggression to keep it driveable on the street still as it is his daily.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by jefo View Post
    You probably want a rev limiter on there haha. 200-300 rpm above the shift point is good.

    For shift firmness changes go to Shift Pressures then Ramp Torque, and try multiplying the 2 far right columns by 1.3 or so for each gear shift and see how it feels. I would change this before reducing torque management.

    Also, you should throw a 180 thermostat in the car and lower the fan settings. It'll pick up some power from added timing. And intake air temps are important also - an open engine bay cone air filter is no good, if it has one. (aka hot air intake)
    180 tstat is alreay in the works im planning on putting it in next week for him, i have one in my 2013 durango but i didnt realize it could add a bit of power/timing with the improved cooling, i thought it was just to prolong the life. Good to know! Thanks for the input and i will try these and see how they feel.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by DodgeBoy_8HP View Post
    I agree with almost everything what was told above...
    - You should have a limiter (in case a shift goes wrong, you do not damage your engine)
    - Without a log, any suggestion is purely speculation
    - I am not a super fan of "multiply this column by x.xx". Each project is unique and it should be analyzed individually
    - I do not deactivate/disable "Auto Trans Tq Mgt". Doing so, decreases transmission lifetime exponentially (in my opinion it is not worth it). In case engine and transmission tune are paired and correctly done, you can keep it ON

    DodgeBoy.
    YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/@dodgeboy2785
    ill upload a log, hes coming tomorrow to upload the changes suggested and see how it feels