2016 Camaro Dry Shot Tuning?

[ATCinfantry]

Ive been a member here for a while but haven't posted much. I've been able to find what I need through the search button. BUT now I've got a new one.

I have a customer wanting me to tune a 2016 Camaro SS and he has a 100 Dry shot. Crazy thing is, he tells me on the phone that he has been spraying this car like this on a stock tune. Kinda blew my mind there.

I have been digging in my school books, past tunes etc and cannot wrap my head around how the hell I'm supposed to tune this without it running like a bag of crap when its not on nitrous.

Im also trying to decide if I really wanna take this job on. I dont know if the work is worth the headache.

Anyone got any advice for this? Anyone out there running a dry shot on a Gen V car?

Im interested to know what some of you are doing with the torque tables for a nitrous shot on these cars. Seems like it would try to shut it down if it all of the sudden saw a big torque spike.

[Varto20]

well firstly whenever you tune any car on nitrous you need to have your tune without nitrous already spot on therefore you should start by tuning it like you would any other car tune the fuel and timing until its spot on without nitrous!! no spraying then after that your 80% done all that is left is subtracting 4 degrees of timing in the area where you will be spraying since the general rule of thump is 2*per 50 shot therefore you have to take out 4 degrees 90% done all that is left is your( fueling) eq ratio under wot (pe) see where it likes start safe i would start around 0.78-0.85 lambda and dont forget before doing any of this the rule of thump for every dry 100shots is 30lb/hr of fuel flow )as for the torque try logging your throttle position vs pedal position if you notice a huge differnce between them at wot thats a sign you need to dial in your torque tuning if not all is good .just be careful

[Redline MS]

Ive been a member here for a while but haven't posted much. I've been able to find what I need through the search button. BUT now I've got a new one.

I have a customer wanting me to tune a 2016 Camaro SS and he has a 100 Dry shot. Crazy thing is, he tells me on the phone that he has been spraying this car like this on a stock tune. Kinda blew my mind there.

I have been digging in my school books, past tunes etc and cannot wrap my head around how the hell I'm supposed to tune this without it running like a bag of crap when its not on nitrous.

Im also trying to decide if I really wanna take this job on. I dont know if the work is worth the headache.

Anyone got any advice for this? Anyone out there running a dry shot on a Gen V car?

Im interested to know what some of you are doing with the torque tables for a nitrous shot on these cars. Seems like it would try to shut it down if it all of the sudden saw a big torque spike.

For starters a 100 shot on a V8 is not really a big shot. The factory cal is lite on spark relative to MBT spark so its not far off. Being a DI motor is can tolerate more spark and leaner mixtures as is. Also note that on the gas, airflow is increased AFTER the MAF. This means reported torque will be off from actual engine ingestion and subsequently power. For this you will need to modify the torque tables at WOT where NOS is used anyway.

[Varto20]

For starters a 100 shot on a V8 is not really a big shot. The factory cal is lite on spark relative to MBT spark so its not far off. Being a DI motor is can tolerate more spark and leaner mixtures as is. Also note that on the gas, airflow is increased AFTER the MAF. This means reported torque will be off from actual engine ingestion and subsequently power. For this you will need to modify the torque tables at WOT where NOS is used anyway.

Your right , but how would you approach these torque tables I mean would you for example let's say I am spraying at 4000 till Redline at 70 kpa can I just go to my torque tables at 4000 rpm and 70 kpa and add like 90-100 since I am spraying 100 shots can I use this logic or will I face problems?

[TriPinTaZ]

Your right , but how would you approach these torque tables I mean would you for example let's say I am spraying at 4000 till Redline at 70 kpa can I just go to my torque tables at 4000 rpm and 70 kpa and add like 90-100 since I am spraying 100 shots can I use this logic or will I face problems?

It would be easier to just go under Torque Coefficients and multiply the RPM and WOT PE area by 1.25, that way nothing changes in the torque calculations except at WOT. KPA wouldn't matter then either. It would only matter at RPM vs WOT PE ratio.

[Redline MS]

It would be easier to just go under Torque Coefficients and multiply the RPM and WOT PE area by 1.25, that way nothing changes in the torque calculations except at WOT. KPA wouldn't matter then either. It would only matter at RPM vs WOT PE ratio.

exactly. If its an auto car; the shift hand off is what will be mostly effected. If the throttle is wide open nothing to do for it. I would at least put a good plug in it..

[Varto20]

That's something new thank you guys for sharing this

[ATCinfantry]

well firstly whenever you tune any car on nitrous you need to have your tune without nitrous already spot on therefore you should start by tuning it like you would any other car tune the fuel and timing until its spot on without nitrous!! no spraying then after that your 80% done all that is left is subtracting 4 degrees of timing in the area where you will be spraying since the general rule of thump is 2*per 50 shot therefore you have to take out 4 degrees 90% done all that is left is your( fueling) eq ratio under wot (pe) see where it likes start safe i would start around 0.78-0.85 lambda and dont forget before doing any of this the rule of thump for every dry 100shots is 30lb/hr of fuel flow )as for the torque try logging your throttle position vs pedal position if you notice a huge differnce between them at wot thats a sign you need to dial in your torque tuning if not all is good .just be careful

I know how to tune nitrous and you kinda skirted around my question which was, in a Gen V car, what do you do about the torque tables to keep the TB from closing and the car shutting down. Also, some advice for you, you never once mentioned looking at the plugs to dial fueling and timing in. Never plug your computer in and shoot for X lambda. Always always always read the plugs.

For starters a 100 shot on a V8 is not really a big shot. The factory cal is lite on spark relative to MBT spark so its not far off. Being a DI motor is can tolerate more spark and leaner mixtures as is. Also note that on the gas, airflow is increased AFTER the MAF. This means reported torque will be off from actual engine ingestion and subsequently power. For this you will need to modify the torque tables at WOT where NOS is used anyway.

It would be easier to just go under Torque Coefficients and multiply the RPM and WOT PE area by 1.25, that way nothing changes in the torque calculations except at WOT. KPA wouldn't matter then either. It would only matter at RPM vs WOT PE ratio.

exactly. If its an auto car; the shift hand off is what will be mostly effected. If the throttle is wide open nothing to do for it. I would at least put a good plug in it..

Thanks Redline MS and TriPinTaZ for the replies. Just to understand some things, I know the computer uses airflow as part of the process to calculate torque. So when spraying nitrous, you're saying that the computer wont see the major increase in torque because everything is happening after the MAF? Or that it wont see most of the increase or what? Just trying to understand some of the logic here. I knew I would have to go in and massage the torque tables. So 25% under torque coefficients would most likely be enough to keep it running?

[TriPinTaZ]

It will see LESS airmass through the MAF due to the replaced intake volume with N2O, and it won't know that the replaced volume has twice the amount of oxygen(additional energy) per lb/hr of air. So you have to tell the ECU that it is there. 25% increase was a ballpark to start with. You will need to test.

[ATCinfantry]

It will see LESS airmass through the MAF due to the replaced intake volume with N2O, and it won't know that the replaced volume has twice the amount of oxygen(additional energy) per lb/hr of air. So you have to tell the ECU that it is there. 25% increase was a ballpark to start with. You will need to test.

I'm following you now. Cool.

I wound up turning down the job. I want to make sure I know what I'm doing before I just plug in and try some stuff. He wanted it tuned ASAP and I just wasn't comfortable. Plus I'd rather tune a wet shot the first time so I can control the fueling better. Just all around wasn't comfortable and I don't know what I don't know. I wont be so skittish when the next one comes around.

Thanks for the help.

[Varto20]

[QUOTE=ATCinfantry;634747]I know how to tune nitrous and you kinda skirted around my question which was, in a Gen V car, what do you do about the torque tables to keep the TB from closing and the car shutting down. Also, some advice for you, you never once mentioned looking at the plugs to dial fueling and timing in. Never plug your computer in and shoot for X lambda. Always always always read the plugs.


I appreciate the advice which I already knew and assumed you knew since your a tuner and tuning a customer car.
And chill out dude ain't no comptetion here I am not insulting your mighty tuning skills or anything I simply took a look at your profile saw a maximum of 3 post assumed your starting out and wrote down the basics to help you out around this.

[ATCinfantry]

[QUOTE=Varto20;634845]

I know how to tune nitrous and you kinda skirted around my question which was, in a Gen V car, what do you do about the torque tables to keep the TB from closing and the car shutting down. Also, some advice for you, you never once mentioned looking at the plugs to dial fueling and timing in. Never plug your computer in and shoot for X lambda. Always always always read the plugs.


I appreciate the advice which I already knew and assumed you knew since your a tuner and tuning a customer car.
And chill out dude ain't no comptetion here I am not insulting your mighty tuning skills or anything I simply took a look at your profile saw a maximum of 3 post assumed your starting out and wrote down the basics to help you out around this.

I?m calm. Lol. I just saw your response and noticed you didn?t say anything about the basics which is most importantly plug reading. Not what the computer states.

I?m not a mighty tuner by any means. I only have 3 posts because I use the search button.

Appreciate the info. Have a good day.