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Quick PRNDL question
I notice whenever I remove the PRNDL sensor brick from the side of the 4l80e 2002 2WD unit, and then re-install it later, it doesn't seem to work at all for a few days. And then suddenly starts working again.
Is there some kind of calibration or setup issue I am unaware of?
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Well it can be broken pretty easily and does need to be checked when reinstalling but there is no "electronic calibration" that needs to be performed. Just make sure the manual link is loose in its position and you can either use the scan tool or an ohm meter. There may be a code related to switch position if it is out of adjustment but it would have to be pretty "out".
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Well this is rlly weird then. The PRNDL brick has 2 plugs in it, and both are glued in so I cannot remove them. It came this way from a truck, all of the trucks have some kind of sticky glue goop inside their plugs so you cannot remove easily.
So the plugs/wires have never been out of my PRNDL sensor. I only remove it from the trans to take the trans out of the car, and I let it hang there. It never got damaged.
Then, I will line it back up with park (Put the trans in park and rotate the PRNDL to park). Then Install to the side of trans (slips on easily).
Then then,..... it won't work at first. It just shows me 2nd gear all the time.
For a couple days, 3 to 5 hours it won't work.
Then suddenly it starts to work out of no where and continues to work until I remove the PRNDL from the side of the trans again.
This has happened now two or three times so its to the point where I install my PRNDL then I automatically know it won't work for a while.
NOT a big deal since I think the only purpose for PRNDL on my car is the rev limiter in neutral. Thats about the only difference I can see.
I know when the PRNDL starts working again because suddenly the car will limiter where I set it in neutral to 3300rpm
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That's what I meant by broke pretty easily. It isn't glue but it is sticky. In 25 years with GM I never really figured out what kind of moisture barrier they used but I know the trans guys always order one whenever they R&R. If you use a heat gun it helps but pretty much you have to just work hard to get the plug out.
It also is for starter interrupt. I would replace it. Maybe even get a new pigtail
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A quick check of Rockauto shows it to be less than $100 for the switch and both pigtails. I'm a cheap bastard, but I'd spend that just to have the ability to unplug the damn thing; troubleshooting the switch function issue would be a freebie bonus.
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Well, I did buy a new one from rockauto, but I didnt like it and it didn't seem to work properly. The plugs didn't seem to fit well and it gave some kind of trouble with the computer, I forgot what it was. I tried two of them actually. Maybe it was just doing the same weird not-working-at-first bs
That is why I went to the junkyard and grabbed an OEM truck PRNDL and just cut the wires, leaving the plugs glued in to avoid trauma and ensure it would work properly as far as electrical connections went. I like them glued in like that.
On my car I have not used it for neutral safety (starter does not interrupt) Instead I have a completely separate neutral safety switch relay which is controlled by an arduino
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