Greetings, I've been reading a lot of post on LNF Motors trying to figure out what's going on with a car I just put together. ( off road class ten, ATK LNF 2.0, E69 BOSCH ECM) that starts but only runs 2 seconds then shuts off. I see you all over these posts and looks like you've got tons of knowledge. I see you're in Nevada as am I and was wondering if you know a shop, tuner that could help me out. Thanks Kevin
I am only familiar with the Reno area and dont know of many quick ecotecs. This area prefers other platforms.
The ecu looks for BCM validation from checking the keys. I believe GM calls it Vehicle Thief Deterrent (VTD). If the validation times out due to no BCM present, then it triggers security and shut down. It's been so long i don't remember how to bypass it anymore. I don't follow the ecotec shops anymore, but if Trifecta is still around then you could see if they still offer the BCM delete software.
I vaguely remember GMTech talking about a key cycle pattern that force the BCM to permit the key to be used, but it only works if the BCM is present. https://moduleexperts.com/gm-securit...arn-procedure/
Some people are using external wiring to bypass all the ecu circuits that get shut down when VATS kicks in. I dont have the wiring diagrams to look into this so i am a bad source of help. I wish i could help you more than this but I'm getting pretty rusty these days.
Last edited by cobaltssoverbooster; 06-12-2021 at 05:14 PM.
2000 Ford Mustang - Top Sportsman
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well no amount of tuning can cover this up lol no wonder I had idling issues progressively get worse. Now all that work I did has to go since the engine couldn't breathe properly so now it's time to start again!
USDM As Fck
@DaX.Media
thats normal build up for a stock motor. when the valves are out use a 80 grit sanding roll to just knock the port casting down and then call it good. it slowed the buildup in my application. The real solution is a really good catch can system for the breather/crank vent
2000 Ford Mustang - Top Sportsman
No worries I'm gaining on it ! Learned a lot in the last two weeks thanks for the response my friend
yeah what about running meth? thats what i was recommended.Originally Posted by cobaltssoverbooster
i am excited to tune tomorrow ! i had KR throughout my trip home which i assume had to do with the walnut blast? will be able to see during tomorrows drive. I know they changed my gap tighter than stock so i will see how this new service worked out.
question:
IAT + IAT 2, 2 is always at or just below ambient and the first fluctuates and can increase as much as 25 deg over ambient. I know one is the intake but what is the 2nd? and what should they be?
USDM As Fck
@DaX.Media
One is before intercooler, two is after. Two is cooled by ambient temp since it is from the intercooler and that?s how it cools. Tracking temp rise on IAT?s is important when tuning.
Thank you that makes sense! I am trying to learn the VCM scanner more b ut I have been having a hard time understanding some things. Not sure if I saw any threads about IAT but will give a look. I will be taking my first log since since service so I will see where I'm at. I know I will be needing to work on the MAF at minimum.
USDM As Fck
@DaX.Media
Not sure if I kept it up or not as I did delete some of my older posts. I did have one though about IAT and it?s importance. It would have been probably six years back. Give or take.
Awesome thank you for that link I will check it out. I notice during idle my fuel pressure being off from desired (sometimes almost 100psi above) would that indicate a rail or pump issue ?
USDM As Fck
@DaX.Media
I was wondering if any of you could help me. I have a 2015 sonic rs 1.4T. I installed and cold air intake and atmospheric blow of valve, as expected it needs a tune to get rid of the engine light. I just ordered hp tuners and 4 credits from zzp. Iam hoping I can find someone to point me in the direction of which tables will need adjustments. I am totally new to tuning. I also have a 3800 turbo fiero build thats almost ready, so I really need to learn a few things "tuning wise" A local tuner told me $300 to turn of the dtc in the sonic, but I dont believe thats the proper way to go about it, so here I am. Any help, tips would be very much appreciated.
I learnt from this forums and took a couple courses at HPAcademy
USDM As Fck
@DaX.Media
For smoothing out my spark tables does that just entail making the 3d chart look nice and smooth? Fixing any bumps and dips? I know whatever I change in the main spark needs to be replicated for the MBT spark but I was wondering if there's a trick or if it just means smoothing it by hand or by value.
USDM As Fck
@DaX.Media
I always smooth the value. I also raise it in a lot of areas so timing isn?t so low. That?s where a lot of KR issues come from when logging. It?s not just about smoothness. You also need to log while learning and see where you might be having issues at. Also know that other tables can make you think you have issues with timing and that might not be the case. I always look at the graph and make sure it?s smooth like I want. I also run my timing different than most I would bet, but I have never had any issues with mine on any car.
So an update! I have been starting to look up more about the injection timing hom single low and changed some cruise values to hopefully eliminate some knock and it seems pretty solid so far. I didn't want to play with it too much as I still have much to learn but changed what I felt comfortable with. Also figured out my boost it now ramps to 20psi and just holds nicely which felt better so now to continue tweaking and playing with spark. Especially to get the cold start nicer.
Really excited to see improvements working again!
USDM As Fck
@DaX.Media
When I check my log I have realized I have misfires showing as current on HPTuners but the total misfires never goes up past 0 and I don't hear or feel them. Is that it being sensitive or is there an issue ?
USDM As Fck
@DaX.Media
So I tried to toy with the spark again and had rev hang at 2k rpms after decel on the highway so I think I am gonna leave that stuff lol my cold start timing advance is around 2-3 degrees and I tried to raise that which is what caused that issue (I raised 20-30% load 800-1000rpms cells not sure how that affected decel at 2k rpms and caused rev hang)
USDM As Fck
@DaX.Media
So I have noticed why my starts are varying in timing, my IAT1 is sometimes reading hot (like +200F) which is pulling 5 degrees of timing. The temperature decreases when driving to around ambient or just above but when I idle it increases sharply. I have a K&N Short Ram Intake which I know is near the motor but never would have thought for it to get that hot. Am I best to get the stock air box back or try and block off the intake?
Edit: So i can edit the IAT base spark table to not pull 5 degrees of timing at idle? Is that considered dangerous?
Last edited by SSmile; 07-24-2021 at 06:17 PM.
USDM As Fck
@DaX.Media
the factory airbox is a pretty decent unit. i think i modified the inlet to the box for a larger opening and then i ran all new plumbing from the box to the turbo. It was my best for screwing with people who though it was just an intake and intercooler kit. Lo and behold i was hiding a gt3076 back there against the firewall haha
2000 Ford Mustang - Top Sportsman
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