Been going after this for a while. I bought this 2007 thinking it was the valve tick issue. Once the heads came off, saw it was the valve seat issue with 4 pistons destroyed.

So of course, you start searching. Learn that Chrysler changed the heads after 2009 to correct this issue. So common sense (I claim to have it) says if you have to replace these heads, get the right heads. Of course, did not study enough to learn the intake wont fit, (even though it should be changed to get the schrapnel out) exhaust manifolds wont fit, pushrods wont work, So after spending another 1500 on parts after the 700 heads, got it together. I was at the point where I should have left the lifters alone, they were all good, no roller damage, no cam damage, but do I really want to get back into this motor to replace them later? So I got a set of morels.

Long story short, it runs, runs like a raped ape from 1500 to wherever you want to take it, but come back down to idle, tick tick tick tick.

This is what I learned so far, startup, fine, 1300 rpm's, next step 1100 rpm's still sweet, drops down a couple more times and tick tick tick. Drive for a while to get temp in the motor, I get a stutter from the 630 idle to 500, but its not a misfire.

Went thru, cleaned up all the vacuum leaks on the adapter plates I fabricated (did I leave that part out with the new intake?) but idle still bites.

Now, the new intake does not have the EGR hole, so I did not make the hole in the head for the EGR. So is this stammer when the EGR is supposed to open? I tried to delete the EGR tables but it runs like you have OD off, foot off the gas it falls back to idle when in 30 mph traffic.

I always thought EGR happened at cruising, but I also get the stupid MDS codes at idle, so per the youtube video, just checking that MDS disable does not do everything.

So has anyone gotten deeper in this deal? Found some fuel to adjust at idle? Just raise idle RPM's so it does not drop to 630 anymore?

I also started a GD post about having no problem writing to the ECU, but when I click the diagnostics, it does not show me codes or allow any tests. There was a test to verify the Electronic throttle control, or sync it that also does not work. Do I need credits for the diagnostic side too?

Sorry for the novel, just figure they are all questions that would come up.