Tuning a 6.0 swapped ls1 car. Runs fine but I can't read the fuel trims as they stay zeroed out. I noticed the commanded fuel ratio is bouncing around in the 13s. So I'm guessing I'm either missing some sort of fuel enrichment mode or it just won't go into closed loop.....or I have some underlying mystery issue. What do you guys l=think
Didn’t look but could be running PE at idle
Email Tunes, [email protected]
96 TA Blown/Stroked, 4L80E/Fab 9
15 C7 A8 H/C 2.3 Blower/PI
14 Gen 5 Viper
Custom Mid Engine chassis, AKA GalBen C
I made sure it wasn't PE. The air fuel I'm seeing is pretty much spot on with the open loop enrichment chart. So the afr bounces around in the 13s depending on the kpa and coolant temp.
It's in open loop, look at your o2 sensors. They are both reading 450mv, so they have no power or they are disconnected.
The tune is doing exactly what it is suppose to do because your open loop EQ ratio ratio has values all greater than 1.00 for all cells at operating temp. You need to change that to a later open loop table or from one from a 2001+ truck. Those will have the EQ ratio at 1.00 for temps above 130-140 degrees and they generally "flow" a lot better, the slope to 1.00 is better than what you have.
2016 Silverado CCSB 5.3/6L80e, not as slow but still heavy.
If you don't post your tune and logs when you have questions you aren't helping yourself.
I'm just trying to get the car into closed loop. The o2s are plugged in and brand new. I wonder if a fuse is bad?
Fuse looks good. Any ideas
Probably burnt up wiring from exhaust.. see this sometimes on installs (since sensors are new) that would be about only cause
Email Tunes, [email protected]
96 TA Blown/Stroked, 4L80E/Fab 9
15 C7 A8 H/C 2.3 Blower/PI
14 Gen 5 Viper
Custom Mid Engine chassis, AKA GalBen C
Went through the o2 wires and extensions. They look good. Might just be a couple of bad o2s?
"Went through" means a visual inspection and called it good, or verified each and every pin at the O2 connector goes to where it should at the other end with some kind of electrical testing tool?
Do you have continuity from each sensor+/sensor- pin to the correct pins at the PCM? Do you have good B+ at the heater+? And good GND at the heater-? And that none of them are shorted to each other or B+/GND when they shouldn't be?
The mention of extension harnesses is another red flag that warrants very thorough end-to-end verification.
This is something that comes up a lot, not to pick on you. A pro hears 'check the wiring' and knows that means get out the tools and verify things. Too, too many Youtube-educated DIYers hear 'check the wiring' and think, OK, look it over, don't see anything out of place, must be A-OK! We sometimes speak different languages at each other and assume the others all understand.
No, I get it. I don't understand how it would be pinned wrong but you never know. First inspection is always going to be visual as finding a burned up wire isn't to difficult. I'm also going to swap out an o2 before I start running down each pin. I don't break out voltmeter and start playing that game first. My main question was if there was something in this tune that was preventing closed loop. Looks like we have a gremlin somewhere.
your min learn in closed loop tab is set to 4% along with various other little issues in that tab. i would also back off on the max torque in torque reduction setting if it was me.
Last edited by mrcanby; 07-17-2021 at 11:37 AM.
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