1999 Camaro Idle Tuning Help

[BlackSunshine99]

Hello All,
I've got a 1999 Camaro Turbo car I recently purchased which the tune is incomplete.
The transmission failed during dyno testing/tuning at which point the owner lost interest and then sold me the car.
Since then I've installed a new trans and fresh converter as well as correcting a few other small issues before moving onto tuning.
I've begun low speed idle tuning, tweaking the VE table, RAF and adding a touch of base timing and have made some headway, the car is running better but I've still got a couple issues I've been unable to remedy.
-Cold Start, the car will not start without help from the throttle, once fired after a few seconds it will idle but will not stay running without throttle.
I've adjusted the throttle so my TPS is within bounds and the IAC counts appear to be where they should be so I'm a little stuck.
-Hot Idle, the idle is a bit weak and will sometimes die when dropping into gear, it also will die sometimes when coming to a stop while driving so it seems like the idle just a bit off somewhere.
Lean Tip In, the other is a lean blip that occurs after slightly hitting the throttle when coasting off the throttle for a time, if staying in the gas it does just fine.
Injector data, map data all appear to be correct as well.
The combo info is as follows:
1999 Camaro SS Auto
Forged 5.7 LS1, CNC Ported 243 Heads, Brute Speed FI Cam, Victor Jr. intake, Alum. Elbow, Holley 105mm TB, B/W S484 Turbo, Fender exit exhaust
FIC 1000cc Injectors, BRFPR w/ AM rails, Twin 255 Pumps, 92 Pump Fuel, A2W I/C, 43 psi fuel pressure-spec for injectors.
TH400 Trans, Circle D Converter
I've attached the tune that seems to run the best along with the corresponding cold start and low speed driving scans.
The heavy lean spots on start up are the wideband counting down so I'm thinking I may need to start scanning after the wideband is reading.
Thanks in advance for the help guys.

[kevin87turbot]

There are several things wrong with the tune and the throttle body calibration.

1. Make sure you properly fail the MAF by changing P0101, 102 and 103 to MIL on First Error.
2. It's obvious that the injector data is a bit off by looking at the VE table. Go to the Transient tab and change the Min Fuel Milligrams to a much lower number...around .018 will be a good start. That will allow for a lower injector PW at idle. After doing that, you'll likely have to make some substantial changes to your VE table at idle and low rpm.
3. Your IAC is out of range. It's idling aroun 116-120 on the IAC counts. It should be 40-60 range. You'll just need to open the throttle body a bit in order to get it to that range. That'll help your cold start and hot idle issues. You may have to increase the Friction Airflow Initial table just a bit more if it still has problems on cold start or hot start.
4. You need to pull a little more fuel from the Open Loop EQ table. I'd start by taking another 5% out from -40 to 104 degrees.
5. When tuning in SD mode, the ECM references your low octane spark table. So, it's typical to just make both spark tables the same when in SD mode.
6. It's currently not using the BE table. It will reference the richer of the PE table or the BE table. This isn't a problem at low boost, but may help you as you increase boost, simply be allowing it to target a richer EQ at boost is increased.

[BlackSunshine99]

Excellent, thank you so much for the input Kevin!
The Holley 105mm TB actually has an air bleed adjustment screw on it, I had adjusted it before to get the IAC count down to 40-60 (got that from another one of your posts lol) but it must have went back up when I started making changes. Should I stick to opening the throttle blade or use the bleed screw?
If I need to increase the Frictional Airflow Initial table, what would you suggest, 5%?
Would it make sense to have the PE and BE tables match or does the ECM need to reference one or the other?....or does the ECM reference PE when not in boost and then BE when boost is sensed?

[kevin87turbot]

Excellent, thank you so much for the input Kevin!
The Holley 105mm TB actually has an air bleed adjustment screw on it, I had adjusted it before to get the IAC count down to 40-60 (got that from another one of your posts lol) but it must have went back up when I started making changes. Should I stick to opening the throttle blade or use the bleed screw? Awesome! I'm glad to help. I'd open the blade and get it close to the 40-60 range, then you can use the air bleed screw if you need to make any fine-tuning adjustments.
If I need to increase the Frictional Airflow Initial table, what would you suggest, 5%? You may not need to make any adjustments to the Frictional Airflow Initial table after adjusting the TB...but, if you do, you can just add 10% at a time, as needed.
Would it make sense to have the PE and BE tables match or does the ECM need to reference one or the other?....or does the ECM reference PE when not in boost and then BE when boost is sensed? I typically make PE and BE match at low boost settings, then increase the BE EQ target at higher boost levels.

[BlackSunshine99]

Perfect, I've revised the tune accordingly and will write to the car this weekend, I'm heading out of town or I'd do it now lol.
For failing the MAF, do I check the SES box and MIL on first or just MIL on first only?
Thank you!

[kevin87turbot]

Perfect, I've revised the tune accordingly and will write to the car this weekend, I'm heading out of town or I'd do it now lol.
For failing the MAF, do I check the SES box and MIL on first or just MIL on first only?
Thank you!

Leave the SES box unchecked.