Don't go to the extra expense of new plugs until you close the gap to .025. You need to solve the knock problem before you spend more money and not get any results. What part number MAP did you order?
Don't go to the extra expense of new plugs until you close the gap to .025. You need to solve the knock problem before you spend more money and not get any results. What part number MAP did you order?
2000 Camaro SS 2015 L83 port injected, Whipple 3.0, 4L80E, 8.8 Ford
2013 Silverado 5.3, 6L80k 8.8
He ordered the GM 2 bar Map #12615136 from tick performance!
perfect
2000 Camaro SS 2015 L83 port injected, Whipple 3.0, 4L80E, 8.8 Ford
2013 Silverado 5.3, 6L80k 8.8
Plugs have been gapped to .025 and the new GM 2 bar MAP sensor has been installed. I also changed the values to 200 Linear and 10.33 offset and have written to tune to his truck. Once i get a moment ill take it for a drive and see if that knock disappears or gets any better!
There's some disagreement about the actual offset for 12615136, but it's definitely not 10.33.
https://www.google.com/search?tbs=li...s.com+12615136
I saw posts from different Senior Tuners who all had varying responses to what the correct 2 Bar MAP offset is from 8 to 8.33 and 10.33. So i was not really sure which one to go with
If you use 8.00 0r 8.33, that will be closer than 10.33. I use 8.00
2000 Camaro SS 2015 L83 port injected, Whipple 3.0, 4L80E, 8.8 Ford
2013 Silverado 5.3, 6L80k 8.8
Thanks Lakegoat! I found an older post where you mentioned you use 200/8 so i went with that and just burned the tune to his truck a couple of minutes ago. Going to take it for a drive this afternoon once i get done with my meetings and have a minute and see how it looks!
Kind of surprising how much disparity there is when it comes to the 2 BAR MAP but the 3 BAR MAP is more consistent
Much smoother today, still getting knock but the truck did not bog down at all like it did previously which is good! I also test drove the truck with the tune that he had directly following the dyno and the truck ran pretty good with that tune as well and actually had quite a bit less knock
Log from Current Adjustments:
8.10.2021 Drive1 CD.hpl
Dyno Tune and Log File (just changed MAP settings and drove):
2004 Silverado Magnuson with MAP Linear & offset Change and cylinder charge temp disabled.hpt
8.10.2021 Drive1 MAG.hpl
Dyno Tune with changes to tune for SD (I included quite a few of the changes you recommended, but left PE/BE and Octane tables as they were):
TEST 2004 Silverado Magnuson with MAP Linear & offset Change and cylinder charge temp disabled.hpt
8.10.2021 Drive2 MAG.hpl
Are you running 93 octane? If not, get some octane booster and see if that reduces the knock. Is the exhaust rubbing the frame anywhere? Need to find out the cause of the knock. Some places it is pulling 8 degrees. Along with the IAT spark is pulling 4 degrees at 120 degrees intake air. Your VE table needs some more work. In some spots you are one to two points rich---10.5 to 9.7afr. When you do corrections don't forget to click on smooth selection when you make a few corrections.
2000 Camaro SS 2015 L83 port injected, Whipple 3.0, 4L80E, 8.8 Ford
2013 Silverado 5.3, 6L80k 8.8
He is running 93 octane, down to about a half tank now in it now. Ill see if i can pick up some octane booster for him as well as put gas in the truck from the same gas station i go to (i do not know where he got his last tank of gas at), I have been smoothing the table afterwards and it is pretty smooth!
Once thing i did notice is that when using the tune from when his truck was on the dyno, there was not a lot of knock until the truck was around 65-70mph and then trying to give the truck gas it would start having knock. But watching the table up to that point, it had almost all 0's across the board with the exception of one or two cells had 1.6 or less, and once i started giving it gas at a higher mph is when it started getting knock all over the place. Perhaps i should take it for another run and take it up and save the log before i give it gas at a higher speed?
If this was my truck: Try the octane booster
If that doesn't work: Pull 4 degrees timing out of the area that knocks. Look at the log, gsec and rpm-- and change the area that the knock is coming from. save as a new file so if it doesn't work, you can revert to the previous tune.
If that doesn't work: Make sure the blower is not rattling. Ask him if there were rubber isolators between the blower base and the valley plate.
Get the AFR constant with the VE table.
2000 Camaro SS 2015 L83 port injected, Whipple 3.0, 4L80E, 8.8 Ford
2013 Silverado 5.3, 6L80k 8.8
He said there are no rubber isolators, but the magnuson does make some noise at idle so perhaps that is adding to the knock being detected. Going to try and grab some octane booster today or tomorrow and add it to see what happens, as well as the other changes you recommended! Been a busy few days so haven?t had a chance to even look at his truck until just now
Tried uploading a video but looks line it?s not supported file type
There should be 8 or 10 thick rubber washers between the base and valley cover. There are recesses machined into the valley plate for the washers to sit. They keep the noise of the blower from being transmitted to the block. Sorta
2000 Camaro SS 2015 L83 port injected, Whipple 3.0, 4L80E, 8.8 Ford
2013 Silverado 5.3, 6L80k 8.8
So he said that there are 2 sets on there because of the phenolic spacer! Also here’s a link to the video, I just added it to a YouTube channel to make it easier
https://youtu.be/yIZTpcVEcLE
Ouch. What is that noise?
2000 Camaro SS 2015 L83 port injected, Whipple 3.0, 4L80E, 8.8 Ford
2013 Silverado 5.3, 6L80k 8.8
I believe its gears or lobes slapping together but to be honest I am not sure. I have an understanding, but i do not know the in depth on the mp112 setup internally. My buddy just ordered a new snout coupler spacer for it, thinking the spacer may be worn out causing movement and is going to check the bearing in the back of the unit, but i think he will have a better idea of the issue once he pulls it apart!
I'm the "buddy" we are talking about here. I want to thank you for all the assistance so far. I am a noob when it comes to tuning and couple that with me traveling for work so often I asked ohsquigglyinmyeye to take a look at it. this truck has been an absolute nightmare to get straight. Every single thing I have done to the truck I have had to do at least twice (including paying to have someone tune it for me) and we are still fighting with it.
The noise is the lobes slapping together and from some googling most people had this noise after adding a cam so I chalked it up to a rough idle causing the noise in the case. (I still have the factory cam) but I just ordered the coupler and hopefully that will quiet it down some.
The lobes are not supposed to be slapping. That's a good way to get aluminum in every cylinder. Cam doesn't cause it.
Make sure it has the required level of oil in the rear case.
2000 Camaro SS 2015 L83 port injected, Whipple 3.0, 4L80E, 8.8 Ford
2013 Silverado 5.3, 6L80k 8.8
Cgrove is still actively working to get this truck up and running correctly. He was doing some more testing to try and narrow down the issues while working with the remote tuner and realized that the truck was having what felt like a misfire while driving. However when he was trying to identify the misfire the truck was not indicating there were any on any of the cylinders. He tried unplugging sparkplug wires and the truck still showed no misfires even though cylinders were physically get no spark. We both looked over the tune files and did not see anything that stood out and he is going to look at the crank position sensor, any other ideas of what the issue could be?
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