L31 ramjet intake lt4 hotcam t56 possible?

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Check it out. Setup is in my 92 thirdgen. I made two caps just in case. You think these plugs were still firing and not causing issues? I think not. Going to do an oil change and put some new plugs in. I never adjusted the gap for efi so they were a little tight.

[blindsquirrel]

Those caps are garbage even when new and not patched with epoxy.

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I'm already knowing haha.

[Oleblu]

We should all be aware by now these style caps are absolutely terrible. Been running them for years I always prefer to use ac delco caps. I've had my plug wires resting on my fuel rail for 4+ years no issues. Can you move your supply/return line to another port possibly center of rail? You will likely get the clearance you need for plug wires. And get the cam offset almost 0.0 You might give it a last effort and try to stab the distributor one tooth advanced. Get a long ass screwdriver to turn the oil pump shaft to make your life easier. Pray then you aren't creating rotor phase issues. Im think the tune file I posted has the same injectors your running.

[Fast4.7]

We should all be aware by now these style caps are absolutely terrible. Been running them for years I always prefer to use ac delco caps. I've had my plug wires resting on my fuel rail for 4+ years no issues. Can you move your supply/return line to another port possibly center of rail? You will likely get the clearance you need for plug wires. And get the cam offset almost 0.0 You might give it a last effort and try to stab the distributor one tooth advanced. Get a long ass screwdriver to turn the oil pump shaft to make your life easier. Pray then you aren't creating rotor phase issues. Im think the tune file I posted has the same injectors your running.

I have had the best luck with MSD caps and rotors. The Delco ones would not even last 6 months.

[Oleblu]

I have had the best luck with MSD caps and rotors. The Delco ones would not even last 6 months.

agreed rarely does a cap last me more than 9 months. Or 15,000 miles possibly because the increased dwell?

[[email protected]]

We should all be aware by now these style caps are absolutely terrible. Been running them for years I always prefer to use ac delco caps. I've had my plug wires resting on my fuel rail for 4+ years no issues. Can you move your supply/return line to another port possibly center of rail? You will likely get the clearance you need for plug wires. And get the cam offset almost 0.0 You might give it a last effort and try to stab the distributor one tooth advanced. Get a long ass screwdriver to turn the oil pump shaft to make your life easier. Pray then you aren't creating rotor phase issues. I'm think the tune file I posted has the same injectors your running.

Waiting for some fittings to move my inlet to the test port. I ordered a 4an male to 6an male and a 90 degree 6 an female to 3/8 barb. Wondering if it will flow enough and not cause restriction? I applied your tune specs to my file and it runs pretty good, here is a log. It sounds a lot better but won't stay on. Have to give it throttle for it to start. I have my fuel pump on a switch and when trying to start I flip the switch and then proceed to crank but wont start unless I give it throttle. But if I prime the system and attempt to start it wants to idle. I'm pretty sure the ecm controls the fuel pump so I'm thinking they're might be to much pressure when initially trying to start so I'm going to wire my the fuel pump wire to the ecm. What does the ecm look for before turning on the pump? Just rpm ? Oil pressure.? Another thing I believe I'm still getting a p0341 code for cmp sensor performance. I read that running cmp sensor wires to close to spark plug wires can cause interference. I had my wires right above the dizzy so I'm in the process of relocating my harness and then I will clear codes and see if they come back. Oleblu dm me your paypal brother I will send u a little something for being so helpful. Do you run the maf sensor? I'm assuming your running 58 psi fuel presure?

[Oleblu]

I use a corvette fuel filter/ regulator on that setup it is supposed to be 58psi it usually runs at 60-62psi not my favorite method but a rather cheap effective one. There is no need for payment consider it a gift. I wouldn't normally give out these tune files. Since they are few and far between. But it's obvious a brother needed some help.

There will be much airflow tuning and transient tuning in your future this combo is not for a beginner. But surely you can walk your way through this. No maf on this setup.

[blindsquirrel]

For setting the CMP Offset, don't forget about the turning-the-dist-gear-by-180* trick. That will let you move it by half a tooth if you're close but just can't move it far enough to get to zero.

[Fast4.7]

agreed rarely does a cap last me more than 9 months. Or 15,000 miles possibly because the increased dwell?

Mine did not last factory stock. It was replaced by GM in the first 8 months and always under a year ever since.

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So I cleaned up the engine bay. Tucked and routed wires out of the way. Moved the fuel inlet to center of rail. Wired my FP relay to the ecm instead of on a switch. Ecm now primes fuel rails when key on. I haven''t really ran it for more than 5 mins at a time . Highest temp Ive hit was like 180 . Have tons a space for dizzy now. Got cam offset down to almost 0. I still have this kinda rough start were it kinda doesn't want to crank and kinda stops and kinda coughs up a bit before starting up. I'm going to shoot a video showing what it does, When it does start it sounds good..Starts up and idles by itself at around 1300 rpms but does'nt drop back off, mind you I have'nt ran it long but it did get up to somewhat temp. Made a log and I think its running lean according to the o2 readings, As for the high idle. Not sure were to look, I believe the startup airflow might be a tad high, Not sure exactly how the ve table works but I believe I may have to decrease the idle are numbers.. Ooleblu I assume this is what they call a speed density setup and tune were the maf is deleted and all you use to tune is the ve table correct? I sold my wideband not too long ago and looking at buying another one atm that doesnt hurt the bank. I understand a wideband is mandatory to tune properly so. Not really sure what are the main parameters I will be adjusting. Been watching videos but seems like everybody is all over the place when they explain stuff idk man . I'm good at breaking things down and putting them back together rebuilding and bulding stuff but all this technical data is a lot to take in. Also not getting the cam performance code anymore. seems like it ran great. But the log o2 readings I believe are lean?

[Oleblu]

The tune file i sent you is speed density open loop setup. the VE table will be your main fueling adjustment. From what im seeing here it needs a bit more initial advance closer to 22 than 17. Also you need to add dynamic airflow & cylinder airmass to your channels list. Your base running airflow is probably a bit high also. Attach a current tune file so we can see what stands out.

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At first I made a file with a 21.1 Ifr but It would only start by giving it throttle. This is the file I'm currently running, on this one I bumped up the ifr to 22.1. On this one it starts up by itself.

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So it would startup with my latest tune, but I went to startup again earlier to log some data and it wouldn't start by itself anymore. Only with some throttle. I added dynamic airflow and cylinder airmass to my channels list. P0341 code came back along with p0102 also a Evap code. On the last log I uploaded it didn't throw any codes. Not sure whats different. I shot a video of the issue I have when trying to start, you can see the puff of smoke in the video, and how it kinda stops and my tensioner kinda loses tension. Not sure what to adjust. Puff of smoke smelled rich. Here is the log I made, started it by giving it some throttle. It was pretty cold tonight.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wVShT9KHOwg

[Oleblu]

Add to Startup airflow initial table.

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So I added to the startup airflow Initial and It starts right up after I added a few grams. At first it backfired loud. But after I added a few more grams it would start up right away but still would idle kinda high. It still sometimes does that hard cranking as if something is binding. I believe it is trying to add to much fuel while cranking. Were do I adjust that? I made a pretty long log to see how it transitioned as temp went up. A little more than halfway through the log I started seeing smoke and I look under the car and low and behold the section of pipe after my cat was glowing hot red and burning bad. So I shut the car off, after that I went to start it up again, temp was like 180 and I started it up and it revved up to 1700 rpms and then I just shut it off. Starting to get desperate here as I don't really think I'll be able to dial this tune in anytime soon. I gave a tuner a call which I'm sure everybody knows. And gave him the rundown on my setup. I thought the tunes were 175$ but he quoted me 300$ and said it was a lot of work. I feel like hes trying to get over on me, I don't see how it would be more difficult than many LS tunes with huge cams I have seen a lot of people post about for the 175$ but then again I know nada about the process. I'm going to keep reading and messing with this thing for a while but I believe I will eventually shell out the dough and ship my pcm to him and have him work his majic as he said he was the first one to ever do the sbc 0411 vortec swap so I believe this would be a walk in the park for him. Here's the long log I made today, I believe it began to get rich after it started to warm up. And tunbe.

[kevin87turbot]

It's running pretty lean at this point.
You'll need to add some fuel to get it dialed in properly.

Add the IAC position and the TPS voltage and position to the next datalog and we can advise you how to proceed.

Feel free to email me at [email protected] if you'd like me to tune it for you.

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Anybody ever seen this type of issue at cranking /startup . Coughs up smoke/backfires, I believe it spins the engine counterclockwise in the process. I believe it has something to do with camshaft and crank position sensors. Also this was my first cam swap, could being a tooth off cause this issue?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2UQSUne0BPA

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Found the issue. I didn't press the balancer/reluctor wheel on all the way. Reluctor wheel wasn't in alignment with ckp sensor. Got rid of p0341 for good.

[Oleblu]

Get your fuel pressure 58 psi and begin tuning.