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Thread: Trans tuning for 6.0 on a 4l60e

  1. #1

    Trans tuning for 6.0 on a 4l60e

    So my 6.0 is about done and it has tapped me out financially for a while. I have to use the stock 4l60e until I can afford a lvl 4 or something. I have a 40k cooler and have been reading alot. Seems the 60e doesn't like over 6k rpms , which is fine 6l don't need to be turning over 6k in a truck anyways. Also have read if u can speed the shift up and lower the power until in next year it'll be ALOT nicer in the trans. One post a guy was taking timing away during shift to drop power and then giving it back once In gear, that was efi live tho. The main problem for me is a fresh built 6l with probably 450 on tap is gonna be hard to keep off the skinny pedal. That and 34" tires with 3:73s don't help either. I'm gonna have to be grandpa and have ungodly self control but any things that help the longevity of the stock trans ,which has 160k and has had filter fluid changed every 50k since new ( I know previous owner and have been servicing his truck for over 10 years). I know a 60e can make the long haul, my 98 Yukon had 350k on og trans but had tow package and cooler, my 03 Yukon has 275k with og trans and about 6k miles with full bolt ons, tune and bigger tires. Hopefully I get lucky with this one too, anyone know if any tuning tips to help keep the sunshell in one piece??

  2. #2
    Advanced Tuner
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    Throw 100% torque management in there.. That kills all the engine power during the shift. The tables are available in HPT and EFI.
    Trucks with larger tires and too high of a rear gear i will let it rev out 3rd longer than normal so it is up to speed before shifting into 4th. That way it isnt lugging in 4th then has to down shift back to third when the wind blows.
    Looks like 34" tires and 3.73s would be 1800 rpms at 70mph.

    If you want it to last your gonna have to be easy on it. Plain and simple. Ive gotten 200K+ miles out of a 4L60E that i rebuilt behind a Heads/Cam 6.0 in a heavy Z71 Tahoe. I went with 4.10s and 33s tho so it didnt have to downshift to pull a hill.


    In the end, you gotta pay to play tho.

  3. #3
    Thanks for the info man! Yeah I k ow I gotta be easy , have to save for a lvl 4 4l60e, don't wanna go the route if a 4l80e bc of new axles and have to get a tcase to and wiring. I'm gonna gear soon, prolly 4:56s to run 35s fter the 6" lift....it's all down the road tho nd gotta be able to hold the trans internals together till funds become available.

    How much of a dog is it gonna be with all the torque management on? Basically stock I'd imagine? The only thing that concerns me is with the tq mgmnt , doesn't the converter take all the abuse then? Or is it the trans clutches getting beat up?

  4. #4
    Tuning Addict blindsquirrel's Avatar
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    Pulling timing during the shifts only lasts like 0.3 seconds. I have my tq reduction turned way up over stock and I actually prefer how it feels over the typical 'firm shift' that everybody chases after like lemmings who then later get frustrated by how much time their ride spends on jackstands waiting for the trans to get back from the rebuilder for the 6th time.

    trans.1-2.after.png

  5. #5
    Yeah I'm not so worried about a firm shift, as long as it helps my poor trans hold up for a bit, from what I've read the tq mgmnt actually causes more wear bc it allows for slippage to soften the shifts. So I need something in-between the tq mgmnt slipping and the bang shift stuff that breaks the sunshell I'd imagine?! Lol

  6. #6
    Tuning Addict blindsquirrel's Avatar
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    No. All it does is pull spark timing. See in my screenshot the delivered torque is only 29 ft-lb. Shift pressures are bumped up just a little (less than 10%), and shift timing is reduced to the minimum (.250s across the board, which is faster than the trans can physically complete the shift, which is about .300s). It completes the shift VERY QUICKLY while engine torque is down to basically nothing. Applying the band/clutch as fast as possible while it's making no power results in the least amount of slip possible for a WOT shift.

  7. #7
    So I don't have the tune file in front of me (and motor isn't in yet, be Xmas Eve before it's in) , but what tbas am I after to achieve the 60e saving settings? I really appreciate your help, been in my mind since I made the decision to put the 6.0 in vs the 5.3 that's sitting next to it, all I could think about is how careful I'm going to be not to toast my trans!.

  8. #8
    Advanced Tuner
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    Post your tune when you can

  9. #9
    finally got engine in and running, had to jack idle up and after a quick rev it will die, have to ease throttle down slowly and itll ide. stft 8-9 posotive and ltft pegged posotive so im running lean. i did ALOT of stuff at once from watching alot of basic videos just to get vehicle running. pretty sure bank 2 o2 is bad, will will replace tomorrow and new log. will add my tune file and log file if i can figure out how to upload it
    .[ATTACH]116417

    [/ATTACH]Attachment 116418

    dont bash me too badly, this is my first time dealing with a cam and different parts besides oem. block up is all 2008 silverado 5.3 parts, block and internals are lq4 besides 4x cam gear and 58x reluctor. cam is a elgin sloppy stage 2

  10. #10
    log file sine it didnt go in last quick post

    Attachment 116419 well i guess i dont know how to upload a log file or maybe not take a log file.

  11. #11
    Tuner
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    I had a 2003 S-10 4.3 V6 with a 4L60 , 295,000 miles later and Tranny was shifting just fine,
    I never changed the fluid or filter either

  12. #12
    I left all the torque management on and adjusted tore size and shift points with bluecat tool. Still gotta put my 40k cooler on the front. I hope to get sum life outta the trans, sure is hard to stay outta the skinny peddle tho. Truck sounds and pulls so awesome u just wanna rug it and hang on, luckily there is little to no traction rite now bc of the snow.