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Thread: Extremely Weird Airmass Dip Under Cruising Steady State

  1. #81
    Senior Tuner kingtal0n's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cmitchell17 View Post

    I just tried pasting the stock VVE table back in (still running SD) (under 100 kPa), and tried it and it immediately went way lean by almost 40-50%
    VE doesn't correlate linearly or anywhere near what you think and especially when a setup is untuned. There are too many variables involved. With a large injector, at low pulse widths even .100ms (100uS) is a long time and can significantly alter a/f ratio. Fuel injector size input plus delay is already significant error margin. Tuning a setup can include frequency response of pulse driver circuit, literally the tuning of transistors to desire optimal injector on-time for extremely low pulse width targets such as when trying to idle 650rpm with 210lb/hr injectors on pump 93 octane gasoline. To be precise, it isn't an issue of VE target on a fuel map, most of the on-time is coming from calculated delay periods based on manifold pressure, temperature, fluid density, and voltage dependency, and the injector has a preferred duty cycle range. To put it another way, the latency delay feature may result with a fueling over-correction much more frequently at low rpms in much larger magnitude than is possible to make using fuel adjustments from the VE table. The VE table contributes very little on-time to a large injector at idle so even large VE values such as 100% compared with 50% VE values, both result with similar amounts of fuel flow and power is very similar because overall not much more fuel is going into the power plant because the rpm is only 600rpm and the engine is only lightly loaded. It couldn't even melt itself if we removed all timing advance and ran it lean or rich, it would never overheat because power throughput is so low no matter how crazy we get with the VE map at such a low rpm. Therefore when you see large changes to fueling you don't look at the VE Table really. You look at offsets, injector size calcs, minimums and maximums, multipliers, and check your airflow calculations to see how much power the ECU thinks its making and compare that with what it used to make at idle or what the stock one used. Duty cycle injector flow rate back calculations using manifold pressure and injector duty cycle reports are still partially skewed by fuel density due to fuel temp. Realistically calculating bsfc and controlling power throughput to achieve max economy for each situation is challenging unless you are measuring all these tiny extra data points and accounting for energy, energetics of fluids, speaking of which


    if anything, would be rich with the stock VVE table because of the extra restriction of the turbo compressor and intercooler and piping causing less actual VE.
    We lose energy by attaching a turbo or long intake tubes, but its not that bad for turbos with long tubes.
    Adding tube adds friction. Thus intake tubes on naturally aspirated engines should be pretty short to minimize friction losses. Engineers often calculate Reynolds numbers and find pipe roughness and fluid velocity over some length of tube to determine energetics of fluids, how much power it will take to pump so much fluid how far in what time can all be calculated easily using online engineering toolbox calc applets powered by coffee.

    Adding tube length adds friction. Intercoolers reduce kinetic energy, they throw away energy, the power will be reduced. Intercoolers eat power!
    So simply put, the engine will use more fuel. Economy is worse with longer pipes, more friction, same power requirement to the tire, more energy input needed.
    Could you raise the temperature of the power plant, improving efficiency and offsetting some of the friction losses? Yes
    Could you attach a turbo, reducing efficiency and offsetting some of the friction losses? Also yes.
    The turbo will reduce efficiency of the engine but offset kinetic energy losses of long pipes because the compressor impart kinetic energy to air molecules entering the plumbing using energy it took from exhaust energy. That is because kinetic energy losses are enormous for a typical front mount intercooler setup, whereas the efficiency drop due to high exhaust gas pressure is minimal under the correct circumstances such as properly timed injectors and valve events. Making cam selection and injector size both major factors in the fuel economy department, much larger than the engine's running a/f ratio.


    The turbine extracts energy from exhaust gas which drives a compressor which lends kinetic energy to incoming air molecules propelling them through the intercooler plumbing thus making up for the friction losses of having long intercooler pipes and almost restoring fuel economy despite lots of pipes with friction.
    However. There are still many losses to weigh in on the exhaust side. Higher exhaust gas pressure protects the rod cap through TDC and turbo engines are far more RPM friendly due to the exhaust cushion provided by exh gas pressure. However this pumping loss during economy situations impedes flow and disorganizes the flow, when compared with an individual header system where each exhaust pulse is preserved and the energy or flow work of the exhaust gas pulse flowing in a tube causes a cylinder evacuation/scavenging low pressure affect which provides much energy to move exhaust gas out and clear the cylinder, possibly draw in fresh air and fuel and even some of that could then leave the exhaust. Thus we see that even economizing our cylinder clearing-ness by provided free energy for removal some fuel could be wasted ultimately resulting with poor-er economy. Thus valve timing and fuel injector end-of-time are probably central to achieving max economy and no amount of VE table tuning is going to do that for you, calculate exh valve closure and figure out how long the pulse is at whatever rpm and then time the pulse to fit within that window when possible during a cruise to conserve fuel. The VE table is practically linear and perhaps the most uninteresting and un-tunable table in the entire ECU. It is those injector delay period voltage tables and timing cylinder reference end of injection tables where the real tuning happens. You could interpolate a random VE table for a random engine and then tune every other variable around its generic shape and achieve the same end result as if you pain stakingly adjusted every steady state VE table point. Either way you will still have to go around blending and tweaking every single setting no matter how good the VE table is because it interacts with everything, so what difference does it make if the PE value in the box is 1.21 or 1.35 you would still need to empirically test and then adjust the value at least a single time and the amount of time to do so isn't less no matter how good the VE table is making all of the work pointless since you still wind up at the same final a/f value at wide open throttle.

    The other thing is, with a really good flowing turbo at cruise or idle conditions, there is alot of kinetic energy being thrown at the intake manifold and throttle body. The IACV will actually have to close some, and the throttle body tighter, and the vacuum will increase, which means location of idle MAP/VE position will also change. More vacuum and more fuel requirements at the same time. Lets finish with the fuel requirement though, finish the thought. Higher intake vacuum means what, it means more energy required during intake stroke, the piston surface area fights the increased vacuum and more energy is lost there. Thus turbochargers investing kinetic energy at the intake manifold will reduce economy in the big picture because even if we offset all of the friction losses from all of the plumbing (which I believe is almost completely possible) the piston still fights increased vacuum as a result resulting with a net loss in energy. Because- we know exhaust gas pressure and pumping loss during exhaust stroke will be higher or at least the same. It can't get better, higher exhaust gas pressure isn't ever going to be better. Power stroke we assume the same amount of energy requirement, and compression is a pure energy loss no matter how you slice it. Economy will be reduced: loss, loss, loss, loss all 4 strokes is a loss or equal to before when adding a turbo or any length of tube anywhere. More fuel requirement given the same vehicle and conditions.

  2. #82
    Senior Tuner kingtal0n's Avatar
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    Tuning wise what I would do in your situation is
    1. get a trans pressure gauge and tune the Force motor table, Airmass and VE table to suite the desired trans pressure dynamic range
    2. use OPEN EQ table and similar to adjust air fuel ratio as needed to desired ratios idle and cruise, I bet there are many tables which will not influence torque or shifts
    3. Use Power enrich and AFR advance to dial desired a/f and timing at WOT
    4. ditch the maf or properly setup a bypass valve recirculation to ensure maf doesn't get buffeted by compressor perturbation
    https://www.theturboforums.com/threa...5#post-2051841
    5. Pressure test to boost pressure
    6. leave in open loop, disable narrowbands, use ~15.0:1 at idle cruise for cleaner plugs

    IMO the most important thing is trans pressure. A/F and whatever the ecu thinks the a/f ratio is doesn't matter as long as the ratio is actually correct and the trans is getting the right current. Which is pulled from force motor current so... its always a little confusing to me when people complain about their airmass to trans pressure ratio when its a user definable table called force motor current. You dial the force motor so that the correct current is being commanded to result with desired as measured trans pressure, that you measure with a gauge. You'll never be able to control how the ECU comes up with those force motor columns but that doesn't stop you from changing them however you want so no matter how crazy the ECU gets, the correct pressure is still there. For example my 4l80e needs 200psi which is near 100mA force motor current. During shift the ECU applies what it thinks is 30% torque management but the real torque reduction is 100%. The lookup for 30% of torque in terms of timing is maybe 100 or 200lbf-ft which lowers force motor current lookup table from 88 to 72, a much lower lesser column. However because there is a 98mA in the 72 column AND the 88 column, the ECU can choose whichever torque it wants and still get the full required desired pressure to the trans for a shift, I won't burn a trans just because torque prediction or airmass prediction is wrong or incorrect. With a turbo, what looks like 400hp to the ECU can be 800hp. In other words, the ECU will use the same trans pressure for 800hp as it would for 400, basically all of it. Because WOT is WOT even before boost is available, think of how the TV cable works when pulled all the way out. So there is a certain point after which its 'all or nothing' in terms of trans pressure for some trans I guess. Sure I have 44mA and 12mA columns for 90 and 96psi columns as a means of fine tuning a tiny bit more pressure for those circumstances... pulling the cable a bit harder is a benefit of ECU control. But if you have the trans open you should be able to change any PR valve and run any pressure anyways, so it was never about using the ECU to get more pressure. Just better control. If the trans is setup properly to use its max rated pressure with the torque signal 'boost valve' turned all the way up to max by ECU or cable, then the parts are all working properly together as intended.

  3. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by kingtal0n View Post
    Tuning wise what I would do in your situation is
    1. get a trans pressure gauge and tune the Force motor table, Airmass and VE table to suite the desired trans pressure dynamic range
    2. use OPEN EQ table and similar to adjust air fuel ratio as needed to desired ratios idle and cruise, I bet there are many tables which will not influence torque or shifts
    3. Use Power enrich and AFR advance to dial desired a/f and timing at WOT
    4. ditch the maf or properly setup a bypass valve recirculation to ensure maf doesn't get buffeted by compressor perturbation
    https://www.theturboforums.com/threa...5#post-2051841
    5. Pressure test to boost pressure
    6. leave in open loop, disable narrowbands, use ~15.0:1 at idle cruise for cleaner plugs

    IMO the most important thing is trans pressure. A/F and whatever the ecu thinks the a/f ratio is doesn't matter as long as the ratio is actually correct and the trans is getting the right current. Which is pulled from force motor current so... its always a little confusing to me when people complain about their airmass to trans pressure ratio when its a user definable table called force motor current. You dial the force motor so that the correct current is being commanded to result with desired as measured trans pressure, that you measure with a gauge. You'll never be able to control how the ECU comes up with those force motor columns but that doesn't stop you from changing them however you want so no matter how crazy the ECU gets, the correct pressure is still there. For example my 4l80e needs 200psi which is near 100mA force motor current. During shift the ECU applies what it thinks is 30% torque management but the real torque reduction is 100%. The lookup for 30% of torque in terms of timing is maybe 100 or 200lbf-ft which lowers force motor current lookup table from 88 to 72, a much lower lesser column. However because there is a 98mA in the 72 column AND the 88 column, the ECU can choose whichever torque it wants and still get the full required desired pressure to the trans for a shift, I won't burn a trans just because torque prediction or airmass prediction is wrong or incorrect. With a turbo, what looks like 400hp to the ECU can be 800hp. In other words, the ECU will use the same trans pressure for 800hp as it would for 400, basically all of it. Because WOT is WOT even before boost is available, think of how the TV cable works when pulled all the way out. So there is a certain point after which its 'all or nothing' in terms of trans pressure for some trans I guess. Sure I have 44mA and 12mA columns for 90 and 96psi columns as a means of fine tuning a tiny bit more pressure for those circumstances... pulling the cable a bit harder is a benefit of ECU control. But if you have the trans open you should be able to change any PR valve and run any pressure anyways, so it was never about using the ECU to get more pressure. Just better control. If the trans is setup properly to use its max rated pressure with the torque signal 'boost valve' turned all the way up to max by ECU or cable, then the parts are all working properly together as intended.
    Thank, so I currently have stock injectors, hopefully I can upgrade them though in the future though and try to upgrade or get more out of my pump as well. I really would like to be able to run full pump E85 (around 70-75% ethanol in my area).

    I also have a 6L80, mine is a 2011. I think some people think if you don't adjust values somewhere in the TCM and add power or FI then your transmission will automatically blow up. My TCM and ECM is 99% stock. The virtual torque tables in the ECM appear to correctly cover the range even well outside of stock power approaching double it. However, the TCM table axises look like they kind of terminate at stock power levels, although I think the TCM/ECM will extrapolate maybe using the last slope value to derive a out of range value, not sure on that? I was looking at the 6L90 LSA CTSV TCM calibration and its axies go way out there, so I was thinking maybe I could copy those values, I am just not sure how much hydraulic differences their are in the 6L80 vs 6L90.

  4. #84
    Senior Tuner kingtal0n's Avatar
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    For some reason I thought you had a 4l60 and large injectors. You added a turbo with stock injectors? *faints*

    While I do believe in maintaining an airflow and torque model if possible, because it makes everything fast and simple, I also believe there are times when you just need the engine and trans to run properly and nothing else matters. There are people that 'scale' tunes for example, it isn't unheard of to completely abandon the real model and use something 'scaled down' by a percentage. I've never done it and I never plan to- I just don't feel bad pointing out there are other options besides trying to fit the model exactly. But I don't know how difficult that sort of thing is with the transmission you are using without a trans dyno and oscilloscope to test with. In any case, I feel that if you know the transmission pressure, and the apply rate of solenoids (or have control over them) it really doesn't matter how you achieve the desired shift time/firm, it doesn't matter what the ecu 'thinks' if the output is correct. That is why I say prioritize the transmission. For like, a worst case scenario I guess. I'm a worst case vision, I generally speak from the 'last thing to try if nothing else works'.

    Unless I a am missing something (I could be) there are really only 3 control issues here related to the model
    1. Transmission behavior
    2. Fuel
    3. Spark

    If we program the ecu with 'crazy shit' but the trans shifts correctly, spark timing is correct, and air fuel ratio stays correct, then the ECU can be as dumb or crazy as it wants. Think back to ECU piggybacks, Greddy E-manage, super AFC, HKS F-conV, etc... You never used those? Back in the day we would leave OEM Ecu and upgrade injectors then just piggyback the airflow signal (voltage) to correct for the larger injectors or different maf sensor or whatever. The Piggy takes the 5v input and converts it to the 'correct' voltage to drive the injectors. This way you can use the OEM maps with twice the power, no need for stand-alone, if you knew what to do with the timing and fuel of course.
    Just an example of 'dumb' ecu controlling for high output without even realizing it.

    I don't consider airflow a control issue because nearly every airflow related setting is a self dependent variable, for example idle airflow or derivative airflow, those are just numbers that interact with self (current airflow state or model) so changing them to achieve the correct idle or whatever doesn't influence tuning for fuel or timing. E.g. most of the air 'decision' is based on a throttle command (TPS desired either by human or ecu). Any tables or maps which reference airflow for anything else is really the fuel adjustment (and sometimes spark or transmission pressure) so it falls under fuel and spark and transmission anyways. For example when you adjust the VE table (technically airflow model?) You are really controlling fuel, not air; It isn't an air table its a fuel table.

    To be clear I am not recommending any of this or the previous post. Its just what I would attempt to do if I had a setup giving me trouble trying to tune it 'the normal way' which yours doesn't seem to be giving much trouble. Anywhere in my own configuration where the ECU has some kind of limit or issue I found a work around for it so far and because the ECU I have been working with is the simplest one of all it just seems very basic and it may not be so simple or basic for your more modern ECU.

    Nevertheless here are some examples of fudged control app
    -Trans torque and predicted torque shifting pressure issues because the ECU doesn't understand forced induction timing values? I modified the Force motor and shift pressure tables until it was corrected for the torque the engine makes even though the ECU doesn't really understand how much torque or whatever at those moments, the ecu is 'torque dumb' but the trans gets the desired pressure so it won't slip.
    -Maxed out cylinder airmass timing table? For that I found other timing tables (afr advance mostly) with influence deep enough to correct WOT timing.
    -Dead space between steady state and power enrichment from say 55KPA to 85KPA where I don't want PE mode but still want enrichment. I added fuel to the VE table so the ECU thinks the engine is breathing a little more than it really is, more torque predicted or whatever. Which slightly increases shift pressure in theory although the actual amount is negligible with my transmission. And... no other side effects. VE table can be used for mild enrichment outside of PE if the resulting predicted torque is no issue anywhere else and then blended back into PE so the commanded A/F in PE can still match correctly for 90KPA+ if needed.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  5. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by kingtal0n View Post
    For some reason I thought you had a 4l60 and large injectors. You added a turbo with stock injectors? *faints*

    While I do believe in maintaining an airflow and torque model if possible, because it makes everything fast and simple, I also believe there are times when you just need the engine and trans to run properly and nothing else matters. There are people that 'scale' tunes for example, it isn't unheard of to completely abandon the real model and use something 'scaled down' by a percentage. I've never done it and I never plan to- I just don't feel bad pointing out there are other options besides trying to fit the model exactly. But I don't know how difficult that sort of thing is with the transmission you are using without a trans dyno and oscilloscope to test with. In any case, I feel that if you know the transmission pressure, and the apply rate of solenoids (or have control over them) it really doesn't matter how you achieve the desired shift time/firm, it doesn't matter what the ecu 'thinks' if the output is correct. That is why I say prioritize the transmission. For like, a worst case scenario I guess. I'm a worst case vision, I generally speak from the 'last thing to try if nothing else works'.

    Unless I a am missing something (I could be) there are really only 3 control issues here related to the model
    1. Transmission behavior
    2. Fuel
    3. Spark

    If we program the ecu with 'crazy shit' but the trans shifts correctly, spark timing is correct, and air fuel ratio stays correct, then the ECU can be as dumb or crazy as it wants. Think back to ECU piggybacks, Greddy E-manage, super AFC, HKS F-conV, etc... You never used those? Back in the day we would leave OEM Ecu and upgrade injectors then just piggyback the airflow signal (voltage) to correct for the larger injectors or different maf sensor or whatever. The Piggy takes the 5v input and converts it to the 'correct' voltage to drive the injectors. This way you can use the OEM maps with twice the power, no need for stand-alone, if you knew what to do with the timing and fuel of course.
    Just an example of 'dumb' ecu controlling for high output without even realizing it.

    I don't consider airflow a control issue because nearly every airflow related setting is a self dependent variable, for example idle airflow or derivative airflow, those are just numbers that interact with self (current airflow state or model) so changing them to achieve the correct idle or whatever doesn't influence tuning for fuel or timing. E.g. most of the air 'decision' is based on a throttle command (TPS desired either by human or ecu). Any tables or maps which reference airflow for anything else is really the fuel adjustment (and sometimes spark or transmission pressure) so it falls under fuel and spark and transmission anyways. For example when you adjust the VE table (technically airflow model?) You are really controlling fuel, not air; It isn't an air table its a fuel table.

    To be clear I am not recommending any of this or the previous post. Its just what I would attempt to do if I had a setup giving me trouble trying to tune it 'the normal way' which yours doesn't seem to be giving much trouble. Anywhere in my own configuration where the ECU has some kind of limit or issue I found a work around for it so far and because the ECU I have been working with is the simplest one of all it just seems very basic and it may not be so simple or basic for your more modern ECU.

    Nevertheless here are some examples of fudged control app
    -Trans torque and predicted torque shifting pressure issues because the ECU doesn't understand forced induction timing values? I modified the Force motor and shift pressure tables until it was corrected for the torque the engine makes even though the ECU doesn't really understand how much torque or whatever at those moments, the ecu is 'torque dumb' but the trans gets the desired pressure so it won't slip.
    -Maxed out cylinder airmass timing table? For that I found other timing tables (afr advance mostly) with influence deep enough to correct WOT timing.
    -Dead space between steady state and power enrichment from say 55KPA to 85KPA where I don't want PE mode but still want enrichment. I added fuel to the VE table so the ECU thinks the engine is breathing a little more than it really is, more torque predicted or whatever. Which slightly increases shift pressure in theory although the actual amount is negligible with my transmission. And... no other side effects. VE table can be used for mild enrichment outside of PE if the resulting predicted torque is no issue anywhere else and then blended back into PE so the commanded A/F in PE can still match correctly for 90KPA+ if needed.
    So after my last VVE correction and resetting the TAPS (or "presetting" them or doing whatever the button in the VCM scanner does) after a few hard shifts, it seems to have learned back to almost stock like shifts. So I think I can call this airflow model good enough and move on to other, and probably more important issues like trying to find intake hoses to get my airbox ported like I want and get the clean side PCV hooked up correctly.

    I think the biggest problem, and this is the same exact issue with my 8L90 T87 in my Camaro, is that we have no way of controlling the shift torque reduction. The "torque factor" and adders and modifiers have no effect on either the T43/6L80 or T87/8L90, at least the ones I have.

    Of course we can do a work around by raising the min timing table, but I really don't like doing this since I just feel like its not something that should be done and I would like for the ECM to be able to properly reduce torque when it needs it. I may though raise it a few degrees in the higher WOT shift areas, just because the exhaust sounds so crappy and unrefined at WOT when it pulls back to negative timing at the WOT shift. Sometimes it almost sounds like the crossover pipe is going to explode because of the backfire noises when it pulls timing at WOT.

    I used to honestly almost change tables from stock just because I felt I had to in order to get my monies worth from HP Tuners and EFI Live and if I didn't change it I wouldn't be any better off than someone with a stock tune, so it kind of forced me to just change things. I think I am starting to get away from that feeling. To me either 99% of the tables and scalers we have access to do absolutely nothing or either they may do something I just don't have the proper equipment to analyze and measure the changes. I may also try copying over to the CTSV 6L90 LSA tables and column/row axis/scales just to see what happens.

  6. #86
    Senior Tuner kingtal0n's Avatar
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    Theres no torque management tables under transmission? My 4l80e and 4l60e all have user definable TM

  7. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by kingtal0n View Post
    Theres no torque management tables under transmission? My 4l80e and 4l60e all have user definable TM
    We just have the "torque factor" tables with a "adder" that adds or subtracts to the "torque factor" and that adder has a multiplier based on driver demanded torque (which I thought only existed in GEN V land).

    I would assume the "torque factor" is just a multiplier to whatever the current "trans engine torque" PID is, so if its 1 then there would be zero torque reduction. But I haven't noticed a thing from changing it, but however, I can increase the MIN allowed timing table in the ECM and it will prevent it from going any lower during a shift.

    Capture.JPG

    The general tab just has the usual tip in and axel torque limiters.

  8. #88
    Senior Tuner kingtal0n's Avatar
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    Being that its under torque management tab you would think they control TM somehow.

    The number 1 as a multiplier is a percentage of 100%. So 1.5 is 150% and 0.75 is 75%. As an experiment I would try 1.05 increments up to 1.50 (150%) and see if the TM changes about 150% of what it was adding from 1.05. Because i have no idea what it will do I would still be curious.
    Usually with transmissions is a bit of extra pressure and torque management to help them survive.
    Last edited by kingtal0n; 03-29-2022 at 01:03 AM.

  9. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by kingtal0n View Post
    Being that its under torque management tab you would think they control TM somehow.

    The number 1 as a multiplier is a percentage of 100%. So 1.5 is 150% and 0.75 is 75%. As an experiment I would try 1.05 increments up to 1.50 (150%) and see if the TM changes about 150% of what it was adding from 1.05. Because i have no idea what it will do I would still be curious.
    Usually with transmissions is a bit of extra pressure and torque management to help them survive.
    You may be right, I have never really thought about using a number greater than 1, I just figured since the modifiers and adders contained numbers less than 1 that was what I should use. The adder "modifier" which looks to just be a multiplier uses numbers less than 1, but they are all negative, which made me think less than 1 was correct as well.

    I feel like a 6L80 will hold quite a bit of power the way it is. My truck has 260k miles on it and I just pulled the transmission out and tore it all apart recently (I bought it with 245k on it). I think something may have fell in the rear planetary and chipped off a few teeth since the gearset didn't look very worn at all for 250k miles, I ended up putting all the stock stuff right back in the way it was minus a sonnax shift kit and sonnax pressure regulator spring change.

    I feel like as long as my torque reporting is fairly accurate and I kept relatively the same torque reduction (or maybe a proportional amount more to compensate for the increase power) I think stock (minus the sonnax shift "correction" kit) it should hold about double the power reliably, the same as a stock engine being able to reliably hold double the output. But if I were to go to 2.5 or so I think it would start to push it maybe. However, these are all just guesses and observations and it would be really interesting to know what kind of safety factor automotive stuff is designed for.

    I would think a static strength assessment is probably the last kind of analysis they do and its probably more like 75% fatigue and maybe 20% shock loading, which I am sure they probably slap on some decent (>2) safety factors to ensure warranty compliance.

  10. #90
    Senior Tuner kingtal0n's Avatar
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    I'm not sure considering safety factor is much help in this situation because something like torque rating of parts goes well beyond what the engine is capable of producing.
    for example its easy to break a transmission behind a 140hp 4-cylinder engine if the clutch is powerful and used incorrectly, due to drivetrain mass/inertia effect on torque of shafts.
    Another example is resistance to being turned, some shafts that can spin freely or hide energy due to weak tire or loose converter will survive greater torque output at that instant.
    Trucks with large tires and heavy shafts can easily damage a transmission without any help from the engine under the right circumstances.
    Thus part of handling torque is in how the trans and drivetrain is setup, not just how much torque the parts can handle to find weakest link.


    Pressure is what squeezes clutches together, in theory higher pressure is less slippage.
    You can drill holes in the separator plate to speed up fluid volume filling of passages, but this will not increase pressure.
    Pressure is normally controlled by EPC solenoid which runs like 5 to 100% duty cycle. 100% duty cycle is just a normal battery DC connection, like battery connected to starter is 100% Duty cycle and 100% Direct current.
    The solenoid has some current requirement likely a couple amps and internal resistance as with most electrical device it can be driven by an ECU through a driver.

    Arduino for example can sink around 40mA which is .040Amps of current so a driver is definitely needed to control an EPC.
    https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...ontroller.html
    https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...strip-car.html

    Its like $7 in parts to control an EPC manually using arduino and driver. I'm not actually saying to do this; I am suggesting that we should really know our parts, know what we are dealing with, before trying to tune it. Know the resistance of every solenoid and how much current it draws. And more importantly, learn what frequency and duty cycle range it wants to operate with. Because you aren't really tuning the transmission ECU, you are tuning solenoids and electrical to fluid signal behaviors, actually their responses to your tuning. The more you know about the hardware the easier to control it.


    Normally its best to focus tuning the valve body mechanically before anything electronic control related. The valve body and internal flaws present limitations to the software. For example if the regulator and boost valve can't physically move far enough no matter how open the EPC gets it won't matter how you program the transmission commanded pressure, it has a physical limitation. Similarly the holes in valve body limit flow, no matter how high you change the pressure value the flow is still physically limited by an orifice and possibly check ball. The trans drums could fill much faster with less pressure if the orifices are enlarged, firming the shift without having to use as high pressure, changing the pressure/time (more pressure in the drum, sooner, but overall less peak pressure by the end of filling). But the 6l80 may not need any internal mods to work for you, just like a 4l80 is pretty strong without mods.


    I would suggest if you are serious about keeping and tuning any type of trans to:
    ------
    Study the transmission parts manual, read multiple rebuild books. Take notes literally with a paper while you watch the videos. Learn how the transmission works inside, find every part and get a spare trans to take apart for mock pretend rebuilding if possible. Study the valve body in detail and follow the fluid paths, get a working model in your brain for how its shifting. Eventually you will see between gear stuff and that will reveal timing and clutch pressure/orifice programming.

    Its not that bad see

    Theres the EPC Pushing the boost and pressure regulator with fluid from the filtered actuator feed circuit in 4l80e. Which is how you realized the importance of AFL valve fix kit and actuator feed flow property. All transmissions will have flaws and many companies will offer 'fixes' for flaws that should be reviewed immediately and carefully selected from. For example transgo makes a bypass valve 'fix' for high line pressure in the 4l80e to keep from exploding the case apart. However in performance apps the bypass could leak, and may have been implemented as a point of possible failure, so there is a great debate about whether or not to keep using this 'fix' modification. Thus not all offered 'fixes' are necessarily desirable, you must choose carefully for your trans year specifically. Which is to say, start collecting transmissions and figure out what years you have so you can order the fixes in advance if you never want to be down a car when the trans fails in a worst case scenario (its your only car and you are the mechanic).
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    ^^
    Normally thats where I Would suggest to start. However the 6l80 is supposed to be a very capable unit without any mods, just like a 4l80e I suppose. I would look up details about the shift solenoids to understand how they operate. Other people look for these info and you might be able to put it all together if you read everything.
    https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...ller-idea.html

    Once you know what solenoids want and how to direct shifting it comes down to getting what you want from the controller or providing a 'piggy back' or intermediary controller (like an arduino) that can supply those signals if the factory ECU will or does not the way you wanted.
    Just caveat when messing with this stuff:
    It might be inevitable to toast a trans to learn what you need to learn even if you have access to a ECU bench and transmission dyno, there is some empirical testing to cover the possible unknowns and one good slip is all it takes sometimes. I would not mess with the trans much at all if you need to rely on it or are afraid of future rebuild, replacement and trial/error.
    Last edited by kingtal0n; 03-29-2022 at 09:32 PM.