Jeep Wrangler Ls swap 5.3 gen 4

[patfish111]

Hey guys, new to posting on threads so forgive me if this in in the wrong area. Supper long post but trying to include all info

Im having some trouble getting my 2010 Jeep JK Ls swap to run right. It's a Gen 4 5.3 LC9. I know I have to get it tuned and have an appointment with the dyno in a few weeks. I purchased a mail order tune with the hopes it would get me running good enough to drive it to the tuner an hour away, but it runs worse with the mail order tune than the stock tune been trying to get ahold of the guy but seems like he's dogging my calls. I did rebuild the engine and changed a few things, I deleted the AFM/DOD and changed out the VVT cam for a stage two Texas speed cam. I won't include the full parts list for my engine rebuild as most of the parts are just gaskets, seal, and hardware. But to mechanically delete the AFM/DOD and VVT I used these specific parts. Besides these parts the engine is stock.

25-TSP212218R6112 - Texas Speed & Performance
Camshaft: 212/218, .600"/.600", 112 LSA, 110 ICL

25-7400-1 - Texas Speed & Performance 7.40
Chromoly Pushrod, Per Pushrod

97-PAC-1219 - PAC 1219 Single Beehive Valve Spring
.625" Max Lift, Set of 16

25-VVTDelete - Texas Speed & Performance VVT
Delete Kit: Includes 4x Upper Timing Sprocket, LS2
Timing Cover, ARP Cam Bolts, & Optional Cam
Position Sensor

25-DODdeleteKit - Texas Speed & Performance DOD
Delete Kit for 5.3/6.0/6.2L Engines

28-25341990 - GM/Delphi LS7 Style Lifter, Per Lifter

28-12595365 - GM LS2 Lifter Tray

171-CB663P - Clevite P-Series Rod Bearing Set,
Standard, FOR STOCK CRANK APPLICATIONS, Per
Bearing

Onto the next step I messed around with the tune a little and got it to run and idle decent. I disabled all the DTC's for the VVT and AFM/DOD as well as Disable both those functions in the tune. The issue now is, when I start it up it revs high then coughs or stutters quick then catches itself and stays running. This is all with the MAF unplugged. When the MAF is plugged in, it starts and stalls right away.( The MAF I'm using is from a Camaro because that's how the wire harnesses is set up. It's a diff sensor than the stock truck MAF.) I'll attach the tune file I'm using, if anyone might be able to help and or has some suggestions that would be awesome. I can't drive it rn to take any logs because I'm re-gearing the diff's I started the re-gear but stilll waiting on the rest of the parts to come in the mail. Also I have a 4" cold air intake that I fabbed up.
And its throwing these DTC
P0010 Permanent (which is one of the DTCs I changed to No error reporting and unchecked the SES light)
P0102 ( I think because I unplugged the MAF)
P057C permanent

March 13 5.3 ls JK.hpt

[kevin87turbot]

Hey guys, new to posting on threads so forgive me if this in in the wrong area. Supper long post but trying to include all info

Im having some trouble getting my 2010 Jeep JK Ls swap to run right. It's a Gen 4 5.3 LC9. I know I have to get it tuned and have an appointment with the dyno in a few weeks. I purchased a mail order tune with the hopes it would get me running good enough to drive it to the tuner an hour away, but it runs worse with the mail order tune than the stock tune been trying to get ahold of the guy but seems like he's dogging my calls. I did rebuild the engine and changed a few things, I deleted the AFM/DOD and changed out the VVT cam for a stage two Texas speed cam. I won't include the full parts list for my engine rebuild as most of the parts are just gaskets, seal, and hardware. But to mechanically delete the AFM/DOD and VVT I used these specific parts. Besides these parts the engine is stock.

25-TSP212218R6112 - Texas Speed & Performance
Camshaft: 212/218, .600"/.600", 112 LSA, 110 ICL

25-7400-1 - Texas Speed & Performance 7.40
Chromoly Pushrod, Per Pushrod

97-PAC-1219 - PAC 1219 Single Beehive Valve Spring
.625" Max Lift, Set of 16

25-VVTDelete - Texas Speed & Performance VVT
Delete Kit: Includes 4x Upper Timing Sprocket, LS2
Timing Cover, ARP Cam Bolts, & Optional Cam
Position Sensor

25-DODdeleteKit - Texas Speed & Performance DOD
Delete Kit for 5.3/6.0/6.2L Engines

28-25341990 - GM/Delphi LS7 Style Lifter, Per Lifter

28-12595365 - GM LS2 Lifter Tray

171-CB663P - Clevite P-Series Rod Bearing Set,
Standard, FOR STOCK CRANK APPLICATIONS, Per
Bearing

Onto the next step I messed around with the tune a little and got it to run and idle decent. I disabled all the DTC's for the VVT and AFM/DOD as well as Disable both those functions in the tune. The issue now is, when I start it up it revs high then coughs or stutters quick then catches itself and stays running. This is all with the MAF unplugged. When the MAF is plugged in, it starts and stalls right away.( The MAF I'm using is from a Camaro because that's how the wire harnesses is set up. It's a diff sensor than the stock truck MAF.) I'll attach the tune file I'm using, if anyone might be able to help and or has some suggestions that would be awesome. I can't drive it rn to take any logs because I'm re-gearing the diff's I started the re-gear but stilll waiting on the rest of the parts to come in the mail. Also I have a 4" cold air intake that I fabbed up.
And its throwing these DTC
P0010 Permanent (which is one of the DTCs I changed to No error reporting and unchecked the SES light)
P0102 ( I think because I unplugged the MAF)
P057C permanent

March 13 5.3 ls JK.hpt

The permanent DTC's are just in the background indicating that there was a problem. Those DTC's are not current and will not cause any issues. Ignore them.

The P0102 is simply because the MAF was disconnected.

Let's make a few changes. This tune will disable the MAF and run in SD mode.
Load it and plug in your MAF sensor (so you'll have an IAT reading.) It should run much better then.

March 13 5.3 ls JK KW MOD.hpt

[patfish111]

Hell yeah, Thank you. I'll flash it here in a few and let you know how it goes

[patfish111]

The permanent DTC's are just in the background indicating that there was a problem. Those DTC's are not current and will not cause any issues. Ignore them.

The P0102 is simply because the MAF was disconnected.

Let's make a few changes. This tune will disable the MAF and run in SD mode.
Load it and plug in your MAF sensor (so you'll have an IAT reading.) It should run much better then.

March 13 5.3 ls JK KW MOD.hpt

Started right up and fixed the initial cough I was describing and the idle no longer hangs when you rev it, it does run way better! As it was coming up to temp though, the rpm dropped to around 700 and it seemed to be struggling a bit. I have it up on jack stands right now, hopefully will have the Locker and new 4.88 gears this week, slap em in on Saturday and collect some data. I'll attach the quick log file I took at idle while.

So now should I just increase the base idle until she seems happy at idle? Would Changing the Spark timing at idle help?
Should I do a crank relearn? Not exactly sure what it does or could potentially improve.

Thanks again for that file, huge difference! Tuning is a skill that I'm determined to learn, but I'm taking baby steps can't afford to rebuild that engine just yet haha.

[patfish111]

I think that tune was spot on and I think I might have a vacuum leak, going to do a smoke test.
Also, say if when I installed the cam and I was off by one tooth on the chain would that be super noticeable with how the engine runs at idle and up to WOT. For some reason I feel like that might have happened when I installed it, not basing it on anything just a gut feeling. Anyone have tips on how to check valve timing or the cam timing while the engine is in the jeep. (valve timing and cam timing the same thing?)

[kevin87turbot]

I think that tune was spot on and I think I might have a vacuum leak, going to do a smoke test.
Also, say if when I installed the cam and I was off by one tooth on the chain would that be super noticeable with how the engine runs at idle and up to WOT. For some reason I feel like that might have happened when I installed it, not basing it on anything just a gut feeling. Anyone have tips on how to check valve timing or the cam timing while the engine is in the jeep. (valve timing and cam timing the same thing?)

That combo will typically idle pretty nicely around 700-725 rpm. Let's try 725 for now. It is running lean though. Let's add some fuel.
The MAF reading is pretty low. I suspect that there may be a vacuum leak like you said.
If the cam timing were off by 1 tooth, it would typically throw a P0016 DTC, so that's probably fine.

Try this revised tune and see how it performs.

March 13 5.3 ls JK KW MOD 2.hpt

[patfish111]

That revised tune was on the money! I let it run while and come up to temp. But there?s most definitely a vacuum leak/ leaks, I pulled the vacuum line to the brake booster had a my friend turn the Jeep off, I had my thumb over the line an it lost vacuum immediately. Not a sure fire way to confirm anything but I think it should hold vacuum at least for a min or two. I?m borrowing a smoke tester from a buddy, but I?m pretty sure it?s gonna be the intake manifold maybe the seals on the injectors and the old vacuum lines I re-used. Gonna wait to do the test before I empty my account though. I?ll post an update tomorrow after I do that test.

[blindsquirrel]

The throttle blade opens to a default position at engine-off, it won't maintain vacuum in the intake with the engine off.

[patfish111]

The throttle blade opens to a default position at engine-off, it won't maintain vacuum in the intake with the engine off.

got it, thank you

[patfish111]

That combo will typically idle pretty nicely around 700-725 rpm. Let's try 725 for now. It is running lean though. Let's add some fuel.
The MAF reading is pretty low. I suspect that there may be a vacuum leak like you said.
If the cam timing were off by 1 tooth, it would typically throw a P0016 DTC, so that's probably fine.

Try this revised tune and see how it performs.

March 13 5.3 ls JK KW MOD 2.hpt

Updating: verified vacuum leaks, and I'm waiting on new intake manifold and gaskets to come in.

[pvkj454]

I used an LS3 intake on my stroked 6.0 in my buggy and overlooked a vacuum nipple that is hidden by the alternator near the throttle body. I had it dyno tuned and found the leak afterwards which required more dyno tuning.