Understanding Cranking Tuning - How difficult should it be to start a mild cam build?

[evilstuie]

OK, so an update now.
I've reset everything back to stock, I found an auto stock tune of the same VZ the original file was,and basically segment swapped everything across over mine.

I've got the wideband wired in to the egr now after finding i'd put the voltage into blue 65 instead of 55 so hopefully no damage done.

The exhaust still has a lot of holes in the joins so I don't think I can do any realy wideband tuning until the exhaust is done, but i'd rather drive the car to the shop than pay to get it towed if I can help it.

I've decided to leave the maf on until the tuners do their thing, but was hoping someone could take a look at the log and see if they can figure out what the narrowband o2s are doing. They're significantly different from each other, even when the car isn't running.

Note: The file attached is still with the original tune and not with the above changes I've made, ran out of time to test them, but o2 values a bit weird.
Also is there anything else I should be logging?

[PREDATR]

I can't seem to read the log file, but are you sure the 02s are the correct way around (left and right)

[kingtal0n]

to tune the engine you turn narrowbands off and tune by the wideband

once you finish tuning you can turn on the narrowbands if you want. I just leave them off for good, I don't even install them anymore. I don't like to see 14.7 when I cruise, I prefer 15.2 to 15.5:1 to keep the plugs clean, and narrowbands always brown them up @ 14.6/14.7/14.8's.
The 'Browning' is harmless I'm just being picky about my long term plug appearance. But I also figure you save some fuel at 15's anything. So win/win right?


And to answer your thread title, the best I got so far for hot start is instantly, its like 1 2 vrooooom on the third squeeze, every single time no matter what I've been driving hot or hot long so I know its possible. TFS-30602001 and PAC1218 on a 5.3L for reference

[PREDATR]

You can still save fuel with narrowbands on using lean cruise.

[evilstuie]

to tune the engine you turn narrowbands off and tune by the wideband

once you finish tuning you can turn on the narrowbands if you want. I just leave them off for good, I don't even install them anymore. I don't like to see 14.7 when I cruise, I prefer 15.2 to 15.5:1 to keep the plugs clean, and narrowbands always brown them up @ 14.6/14.7/14.8's.
The 'Browning' is harmless I'm just being picky about my long term plug appearance. But I also figure you save some fuel at 15's anything. So win/win right?


And to answer your thread title, the best I got so far for hot start is instantly, its like 1 2 vrooooom on the third squeeze, every single time no matter what I've been driving hot or hot long so I know its possible. TFS-30602001 and PAC1218 on a 5.3L for reference

By turning the narrowbands off do you STFT or is there another setting I should be changing? If it STFT's I've turned these off, but still logging the o2 sensors anyway.

I'm chasing another problem at the moment because it's running rougher, my wideband is in the left bank, and the left bank exhaust is only slightly warm to the touch compared to the right which is hot enough to burn my hand.
The left bank narrowband is reading between .1 and .3v and the wideband is constantly stuck on 20.0.

I tested all the coil pack wires this afternoon and they were good but realised I hadn't checked the left bank injector for power so I'll do that tomorrow.
But the left bank narrowband o2 was sitting at 0.148mv before even cranking so I felt like there's something else going on there...

[kingtal0n]

I recommend use the scanner tool to adjust a/f ratio, and individually command injectors on/off one at a time, make sure all injectors work, all cylinders fire, and that you have full control over the a/f ratio using the scanner tool. Your diagnostics starts inside the scanner tool. From there you will know whether to do a pressure test, compression test, leakdown test, fuel pressure leaking through an injector stuff, etc... All engine mechanical aspects including pcv, air filtration, pressure-sealing, plug quality (plug condition, color, use, fouling, etc...) needs to be taken care of and verified good before trying to tune anything

[evilstuie]

I recommend use the scanner tool to adjust a/f ratio, and individually command injectors on/off one at a time, make sure all injectors work, all cylinders fire, and that you have full control over the a/f ratio using the scanner tool. Your diagnostics starts inside the scanner tool. From there you will know whether to do a pressure test, compression test, leakdown test, fuel pressure leaking through an injector stuff, etc... All engine mechanical aspects including pcv, air filtration, pressure-sealing, plug quality (plug condition, color, use, fouling, etc...) needs to be taken care of and verified good before trying to tune anything

This helped a lot, unfortunately I couldn't isolate it to a single cylinder which was driving me insane, but there was a good logical reason for that, it was all the left cylinders.

The coil pack harness was plugged in back to front on the coils, so 1-3-5-7 was actually 7-5-3-1. I'm amazed the car was actually running at all.
Corrected it and now the car idles great!

Thanks for the help guys. Now we can start tuning