Starting over

[MrGuy]

Well, the time has come.. I go lost with so many different suggestions that I decided to start over. Feel free to follow along or give your two cents. I was following ChopperDoc, GRG, and others on YouTube because they had quick videos. Well, not I'm taking the time to watch videos from HP Academy, HP Tuners, and following along with very long posts here. This post will include my updated scanner setup and the tune that I had before I did any work. The trans tune on this is neutered because, at my request, my previous tuner made it so it shifted early and held the gear. We often use this truck to tow and it would often shift in and out of OD while cruising, and I didn't wanna replace the trans. So after the engine is tuned I will adjust the trans... just taking baby steps this time.

These are going to be my tuning steps
1. Idle
2. Maf
3. SD
4. Idle
5. Timing
6. Repeat to "dial-in " more.

[MrGuy]

Here you will see the tune changes for idle tuning, the first run in park with scanner data.

NOTE: I realized that the MAF was still failed when I first started this tune. I had to shut down and make adjustments to the tune before I started it again. I pulled from the VE table also, it was running pig rich.

[MrGuy]

After both were done I added 1.5 g/s to each table after the initial adjustments were made. I also included my setup for MAF tuning.

[kingtal0n]

My $.02
Check/update all mechanical and electrical devices before you 'start over'
for example, pressure test the intake for leaks
install fresh spark plugs once you get rid of initial excess rich conditions (Don't try to tune on old plugs)
ensure PCV setup is correct, PCV valve is new, throttle valve is correctly attached to PCV system (you NEED pcv)
Perform compression test
inspect anything mechanical you can manage (for example check all pushrods/rockers for excess play, pretty fast and easy)
Change the engine oil once you get rid of the excess rich conditions
Etc...

Next when you start tuning I Would recommend tune injector boundary and low speed cruise before anything with the idle
I usually tune idle LAST because as you tune the mid-high rpm stuff it often requires changes which throw away idle tuning anyways

[MrGuy]

My $.02
Check/update all mechanical and electrical devices before you 'start over'
for example, pressure test the intake for leaks
install fresh spark plugs once you get rid of initial excess rich conditions (Don't try to tune on old plugs)
ensure PCV setup is correct, PCV valve is new, throttle valve is correctly attached to PCV system (you NEED pcv)
Perform compression test
inspect anything mechanical you can manage (for example check all pushrods/rockers for excess play, pretty fast and easy)
Change the engine oil once you get rid of the excess rich conditions
Etc...

Next when you start tuning I Would recommend tune injector boundary and low speed cruise before anything with the idle
I usually tune idle LAST because as you tune the mid-high rpm stuff it often requires changes which throw away idle tuning anyways

I did the work on this motor last year and have about 2 tanks of gas on it. I replaced the following; freshly rebuild 5.3 heads, new cam, johnson lifters, new pushrods (measured for them), new Melling rockers w/upgraded bearings, new plug wires, new plugs, new timing chain, new oil pump, WBo2 through EGR port, new MAP sensor, new MAF sensor, Longtube headers, straight exhaust w/o cat, new #1 o2 sensors, and 50lb injectors from a 2015 2500HD w/6.0. I have a used complete TBSS intake that I want to install after I get this "close enough". My inspiration for this build it this article https://www.cpgnation.com/lets-talk-...ruck-upgrades/

Note: This truck does not have a PCV valve, it's just a straight-through pipe. And the injectors were installed last week, this was it's first run.

[MrGuy]

I made a "gut check run on the MAF. Here's what I did, I tried to simulate a dyno. I had my daughter in the passenger seat with the laptop. I would come to a stop, put it in 1st gear and accelerate. I know of a couple of straight back roads that I can tune on and took advantage of them. Once a cell would stop adjusting she would say "next" and I would try to hit another. I was as smooth as possible. I then took the data and multiplied it by half, then smoothed out the entire table.

[MrGuy]

My daughter and I did some more MAF tuning after we had daddy-daughter dance practice. This time we did multiple passes with different loads. I took all of the values and exported them to an excel spreadsheet. I then took the highest value and multiplied it by half, followed by smoothing the entire table. I excluded a couple of lower frequency outliers though, not sure if that was the correct decision though. this will show the multiple pulls, mimicking a dyno run. I had my daughter start the scanner before I accelerated and stop it before I let off the throttle, while in first gear.

[dhoagland]

Its probably right IN front of me...
What data are you using for your error log?
I don't see a wideband and o2 are not reporting in the logs I looked at. o2 voltage was pegged high

EDIT
Found it EGR sensor

[MrGuy]

Scanner file 5.17.22.1 is the first data log, tune file ending in "adj 1" is the post-scanner adjustment. Same for the second sd run. Each was about 30 miles. In the last tune, I took the KR graph data from the scan file and subtracted 50% of it from the HO timing table. Is that the correct way to adjust the timing for knock?

[MrGuy]

Its probably right IN front of me...
What data are you using for your error log?
I don't see a wideband and o2 are not reporting in the logs I looked at. o2 voltage was pegged high

EDIT
Found it EGR sensor

Yes, through the EGR. I have all of the EGR tables zeroed out to prevent any adder issues while its on. I included my scanner setup in the initial post, I think that will also show my WB on the gauges and everything that I'm datalogging.

[MrGuy]

My $.02
Check/update all mechanical and electrical devices before you 'start over'
for example, pressure test the intake for leaks
install fresh spark plugs once you get rid of initial excess rich conditions (Don't try to tune on old plugs)
ensure PCV setup is correct, PCV valve is new, throttle valve is correctly attached to PCV system (you NEED pcv)
Perform compression test
inspect anything mechanical you can manage (for example check all pushrods/rockers for excess play, pretty fast and easy)
Change the engine oil once you get rid of the excess rich conditions
Etc...

Next when you start tuning I Would recommend tune injector boundary and low speed cruise before anything with the idle
I usually tune idle LAST because as you tune the mid-high rpm stuff it often requires changes which throw away idle tuning anyways

How would one turn the injector boundaries?

[MrGuy]

My $.02
Check/update all mechanical and electrical devices before you 'start over'
for example, pressure test the intake for leaks
install fresh spark plugs once you get rid of initial excess rich conditions (Don't try to tune on old plugs)
ensure PCV setup is correct, PCV valve is new, throttle valve is correctly attached to PCV system (you NEED pcv)
Perform compression test
inspect anything mechanical you can manage (for example check all pushrods/rockers for excess play, pretty fast and easy)
Change the engine oil once you get rid of the excess rich conditions
Etc...

Next when you start tuning I Would recommend tune injector boundary and low speed cruise before anything with the idle
I usually tune idle LAST because as you tune the mid-high rpm stuff it often requires changes which throw away idle tuning anyways

Any chance you would know of a "how-to" for this. I found an Evans Performance YouTube video, but it was just a teaser.

[kingtal0n]

reading mats

https://forum.hptuners.com/showthrea...l=1#post559828
https://forum.hptuners.com/showthrea...l=1#post683573

as a side note PCV is the main way to protect the engine and oil system. It is critical necessary component to healthy engine long life. Without PCV the engine will dramatically lose lifespan and reduced ring sealing and oil leaking and other issues.

[MrGuy]

reading mats

https://forum.hptuners.com/showthrea...l=1#post559828
https://forum.hptuners.com/showthrea...l=1#post683573

as a side note PCV is the main way to protect the engine and oil system. It is critical necessary component to healthy engine long life. Without PCV the engine will dramatically lose lifespan and reduced ring sealing and oil leaking and other issues.

Thanks for the links! Should I add an actual PCV valve in place of the OE tube?

[kingtal0n]

PCV is something that needs tuning, just like suspension, spark timing, oil temperature, etc... Its just another performance tuning setting.

This is how the PCV works at idle/cruise for every engine, I made the pic look like a V8 but it can be applied to any engine in the world

"checkvalve" is for PCV valve. I should re-do the picture so it says PCV valve and not check valve. PCV valves are check valves but check valves are not PCV valves.

I recommend buying a 1995-2002 Toyota Supra PCV valve for Twin Turbo and integrating to your setup for improved crankcase control once you become familiar with the function of PCV valves. I have detailed information below showing how the PCV valve works - it is not simply a check valve, they have low and high flow positions.

Don't worry about sizing the orifice right now. I recommend just reading and wrapping your head around the idea behind crankcase pressure monitoring/tuning.

Heres a little write up how to tune PCV with a correspondence from GM powertrain Engineer a few posts down who is approving the information
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/powe...ml#post6466910

This is a link to the theory from the perspective of 1000+ horsepower turbo setups
https://www.supraforums.com/threads/...#post-13980010


This is showing how modern OEM engines and their respective technicians monitor and tune the PCV system,
Here is a practical application for crankcase pressure diagnostics, shown by a routine mechanic, something the technicians are familiar with but we almost never see in performance installations from chevrolet world

https://www.vehicleservicepros.com/s...system-testing

Figure 10 - Scope capture of crankcase pressure pulling into a vacuum after the engine is started. When turned off there is a slow rise back to atmospheric pressure.

All engines do that in one way or the other when setup correctly!

He goes on,

the crankcase pressure wanders between -2.5 to 4 inches of water column. This is a range of -7 to 10 millibar, well below the specification for this engine which is -30 millibar, plus or minus 5 millibar.

The specified Crankcase pressure is -30 millibar which equals 0.88" Hg which is within the OEM target range I specified from several papers (0.5" to 1.0" Hg as indicated above)

He has some special tools for measuring the crankcase pressure because its also measured by the ECU on those cars, and will set off an alarm.
It is an extremely powerful and valuable tuning tool for us to recognize and find our own way to deal with it.

----------------- Next --------------
This is showing a performance installation where the user is aware of the importance of PCV and has a full time monitoring control over the crankcase pressure. THis is the ideal way to control PCV- just like fuel pressure, oil pressure, water pressure, whatever pressure, the crankcase pressure should be in control/monitored exactly like in the previous example where the technician uses his tools to diagnose modern crankcase

Some cars use vacuum pumps for all kinds of stuff and often people in performance will utilize them to draw vacuum on the crankcase,

Example
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...l#post11930508

Upon inspecting the 15amp fuse it had blown so it was not working when under boost. This might explain why I had oil pushing past the rear main seal. I swapped in a 20amp fuse and it works like it should and pulls ~5" at idle. Because I monitor the pressure with my AeroForce Gauge it allows me to set a warning light. I now have the warning light come on anytime the PCV presssure exceeds 0psi.

It is impossible to ignore crankcase pressure monitoring when you advance to the highest level of combustion engine setup. Eventually, everybody goes there.


Addl links discussing PCV
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1604570347
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1604938029



Sorry about the slew of overwhelming info I just want you to have all of the tools necessary to learn this critical aspect, overlooked and under appreciated. PCV IMO is the most important aspect of combustion engine tuning. And practically nobody ever pays any attention to it- I suspect few people with performance engines drive their vehicle to 200,000 miles or more to realize how damaging lack of PCV really is.

Nevertheless tid-bits from older experienced mechanics exist around the interwebs where they realized it after 20-40 years and promote the use of PCV now. For example
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sAHuBJ6tOUc

As always I am your servant ask any questions I Will do anything I Can to help you.