Existing Tune

[notmypie]

So after dealing a lot with work and finishing up my visit with the family im back to messing with the car.

Ive uploaded your scanner settings and made a run with the Maximum desired load changed to 180 and upped the top speed to 155 as I was getting capped at 135. I did not notice any difference in power and noticed it did not take advantage of the extra load. Tomorrow I am going to make my changes to make it use that additional load.

Mine is the 2014 e550 AWD, https://www.automobile-catalog.com/m...html#gsc.tab=0
67,633 miles, new spark plugs, 2 new coils. Aluminum intake hoses is the the only mod and tomorrow I'm going to short the pump to always be on.

I will be making an edit to this post later once my laptop charges and can upload the scan. Its short and it didn't peak anything fast since the cops were out but I did put my foot down.

topublix.hpl

[chevota]

That boost is just not cooperating is it? I would bump that Max Air Load then. I'd bump by 25% at a time but up to you. Then work up the other limiters as needed.
I'm so frustrated with boost that I'm seriously considering installing a switch to force the wastegates closed. Like a push button for nitrous, but boost. Stupid computer...

Did you notice any difference with new plugs? I just changed my oem plugs, which had ~55K on them. Zero power gain, which I expected but I was hoping for some magic.
I also didn't notice any real difference after locking my intercooler pump On all the time, except for a DTC nagging me daily. It seemed to lower cruising temp, if the AC is off, but under load I don't see a difference. I thought it would take longer for the IAT to heat up if the water was already flowing, but no. I even removed most of the antifreeze to bump heat xfer, but I can't tell any difference.
The latest version of the Editor gave me the option to set the min duty cycle on the pump, but same deal, nothing to show for it. It makes me think that water needs to be really frikkin cold and probably also flow much faster in order to work.
I'm curious about how high your IAT at cruise is. Are you in Australia or something?

Which int hoses/tubes did you buy? I saw a youtube vid that showed some cheapie tubes on ebay that fit real nice, but I waited like a fool and now I can't find the video. Meanwhile I've just been repairing my oem hoses.

[notmypie]

The plugs didn't do much for power but did clean up some knock on cyl 8. My rig for the IAT didnt last. so im wiring up a switch inside but from my guess it wont do much until the pump is upgraded for higher flow.

My IAT right now is probably higher than normal since i'm in Florida working on cars with my father. Always happens when you visit family.

I will post picture and links for the tubes either tomorrow or wednesday.

Now for the logs i got today i have yet to look at them since im still with family but my father did enjoy the run in the car. I didnt go fast still because lots of cops in the area but once im back in my woods in NC I will have much more room to play. Should have additional logs up this weekend when im back. You will know before I how these adjustments went. I lowered the overboost limit to 2psi as i was afraid of what would happen when I started asking for more load.

runaround.hpl

[chevota]

I'd try this one, if you want: notmypie-chevota 3.hpt

I raised tq limits, richened fuel, lowered Exhaust temps and tweaked the turbo a bit. I restored Normalized Torque to oem, which may counter what I did but I want to see what it does on the oem setting.
Looking at your boost and the duty cycle, it seems the vacuum to the turbos is low. So I bumped your min DC to 50, which is a big jump but I suspect it may still be too little with low vacuum. Have you ever checked your vac lines or your vacuum check valve? The vac line from the boost solenoid leads you right to the check valve, which is plastic and has one screw holding it down. Pull it out and be sure it's still intact and working, and of course be sure all your vac lines between it and the turbos are good.

[chevota]

You can see where I have my overboost in the pix below. I assume this is the one you meant? I don't know what those #'s do but I don't believe they're overboost control. Changing them doesn't do squat but like many things in here I simply move them out of the way to be sure. The only way I can actually overboost is with the min duty cycle set too high. Then it only happens below ~3600prm, beyond ~3800-4k it can't overboost period, it's simply not physically possible.

The problem I have is part throttle boost, which isn't really overboost since it's only ~5psi, but it's 5 while the manifold is still under some vacuum. What it does to me is turn the turbos Off! Well, they go to the min duty cycle I have set, which is way better than all the way off. It's a double edged sword because the higher I set the DC the better it runs when the turbos fault out, but the more likely they will fault out. So I try to set it as high as I can and not fault. Unfortunatly that # is still too low for overall performance so I'm stuck. So things like in the pix below I raise up to see if I can prevent the fault, but so far nothing.

This part throttle boost fault thing only happens below ~90 (Load SAE), at ~1700-2300rpm and if I hold that load for a couple seconds. I can move the gas pedal to drop the load to <30 or >90 and it seems to reset the timer. Or I can downshift, or simply bring the load above 90 and it's fine. So just that specific window triggers it. To reset it I have to restart it, which is a pita with keyless go because I have to actually stop.
Actual overboost faulting has never happened to me. I have had some DTC's saying overboost if I go really high, but they don't cause a problem, it's just an fyi. None of the settings seem to limit/prevent overboost either, so imo they're just an annoyance.

overboost.jpg

Family... My friends mom always has him mow the lawn and do other work when he comes over, now she complains he never visits. Duh!
Well, gotta do whatcha gotta do.

[notmypie]

This is what I bought. Then cut and used 3 inch couplers to connect. I am unable to upload an image so here is the link. https://www.ebay.com/itm/353883351971

The current tune I am using feels like I'm seriously moving. So my ass is happy, with that. I talked to my neighbor who knows the guy at the local dyno and said I could get an hour or two of some use for cheap. So I might run down and get a few tunes across it to see what kind of numbers it puts out.

I did see that I was holding small boost while cruising which I haven't noticed before. I think it may be what you are talking about.

[chevota]

Yes, the min DC setting of 50 caused that boost at cruise. Set it to whatever makes you feel comfortable, obviously, keeping mind what I said about too much causing the turbos to turn off. I don't get a check eng light or anything when they turn off, I just notice power drops and I look at the Scanner and see the duty cycle is at whatever I set min to. From here it shouldn't take much increase in DC to make a big difference at part load boost, or lower-mid rpm full load boost, so if you want to bump it I'd would only do so 2 at a time. So 52, 54 etc. If you ever change the vac check valve or solenoid I'd start over at 40 again.

I'd love some dyno time, but I know I'd also be depressed because I know the #'s will be lower than I want, and certainly lower than what HP is telling me. The whole reason I bought HP is because one day I suddenly lost a ton of power, like a third or more, and I never did find out why. So I'm using HP to compensate, and it helps a lot, but if I lost a third then it would take a 50% increase just to hit oem #'s. I'm pretty sure I'm above oem power but not by much. This is weird because my boost is a lot higher and everything looks fine so it should be making a good bit over oem, but it isn't. It's as if my cats are clogged, but I'm also dumping in way more fuel which it wouldn't do if clogged. Spark timing is also correct so I just don't get it. The Scanner says I'm making good power, but I learned those #'s cannot be trusted at all, at least in my car they can't.

Post a good run so I can see. Ideally from a dead stop to >60

Those tubes are similar but the ad I saw they were plain bare Aluminum, no holes, and ~$15 for two. Maybe I'll just unravel mine and patch the entire length. I suppose (hope) it would be good to go from there on out.

[notmypie]

Here is what i have with it, first 0-60 at the beginning was slow, it did push 15 psi, which I don't really wanna go over 14 unless I'm making 550+hp, i need to limit that somehow. Last run on there (i was driving around) was a good 0-60. the sluggish shifting really kills the car. I notice its not opening full throttle in first gear and randomly does that through pulls. Any idea?home.hpl

[chevota]

Don't feel bad, you're already quicker than me 0-60 and I'm running more boost. My record is 4.5sec. With your boost my 0-60 would be 5 sec or more. My acceleration after 60 is better but not by much.
I'm also amazed at how much less fuel you use. I use ~50% more under load. My inj PW has gone as high as 6ms but 3 is typical. Yours is ~2. Doesn't make sense...

I don't think 15psi is anything to worry about, but up to you. Excluding spikes I avg maybe 4-5psi more than you, and no power to show for it

The throttle pull is the tranny, and apparently the only fix is to have a tranny tune, which is like $1800. Plus you gotta pull the valve body off the tranz to get to the computer, then send it to someone who can do it, pray nothing happens in shipping and if you're lucky you get the car running again in a week.