2016 cammed Ram 5.7L Something is off, Jumped Timimg? Please Help, Log attached

[Spray-Cam Hell-Ram]

I recently got some help to get a decent working tune as far as idling with fuel trims dialed in goes. But something just doesn't seem right to me. I attached a couple of logs of startup and idle and another with a short drive. I get a pop every now and then and quite a few parameters seem really off to me. Like Trans-Engine-Torque Requested at 1141 ft/lbs, and I seem to have an unbalanced condition between bank 1 and bank 2 where one is richer and one leaner, and though it says via the scanner that I am not in limp mode, I'm pretty sure I am, as I am stuck in 3rd gear anytime I go into drive e right away. I'm showing a Permanent U1424, P1DD2 codes as well as a few others. My fuel trims show pulling 25% sometimes but at the same time, my wideband is showing a lean condition with an AFR between 18-20. If anyone at all could watch through my log here and help me out here with some input based on what you see here, then any help would be greatly appreciated! Truck description in signature as well. Thanks!

[f.creek-ranch]

Leak problem?
Different is too big from b1 to b2 under some conditions

[Spray-Cam Hell-Ram]

When you say leak, are you referring to an air leak? And if that is in fact what you were referring to, then based on what you see, which bank would you think would have this leak? The only thing that has steered me away from that possibility is the relatively consistent vacuum pressure that I am seeing at idle over time, usually hanging between 6-7psi throughout. I ran another log today and it ran for a good 30 min at idle with no major issues it seemed. But it still is staying in limp mode for some reason. The log actually shows it not in limp mode in the beginning but then entering limp mode about 1/3 of the way through and I couldn't see anything that changed to warrant this command for limp mode. One thing I will note is that I notice it says that injector 1 has no flow or pulse width. But Im not so sure this is the case but am looking into thius overnight to make sure. The engine did not seem to have any kind of miss at all. Sounded pretty good actually. But I also noticed that my truck seemed to warm up faster than usual, seemingly getting up to 150 degrees pretty quick. But seemed to slow down from there and settled at 185 so Im not sure what to think about that given that it leveled out . But I can't get past this one parameter on the log,,, Trans Engine Torque Request = 1141 ft/lbs, and it shows this on my log before i even start it and never changes. Then the parameter right below that one says... Trans Max Engine Torque Request = 409 ft/lbs. So right there to me seems to be an issue given the fact that I am almost 3 times over the allowable torque request from the jump. So what exactly are these parameters about? And what would cause my prestart request to be at such an astronomical torque value of 1141 ft/lbs.? If I understand this correctly, then I'm struggling to understand how even that my engine could in any way even generate a torque request of this magnitude to begin with. I'm just hoping that someone out there has perhaps seen something like this before. I also attached the tune I am currently running incase it could be helpful in figuring out this limp mode. The only thing I have changed in my tune today was trying to turn off the U1424 CEL to see if it would bypass so disregard this if you see this change as I am aware of it. Thanks7

[rays04gtx]

1st you have to figure out why it's tripping U1424 there's a TSB bulletin , but Honestly I think your either the PCM/TCM is on the fritz or Trans it's self is burning up.



EDIT: do you have a stock untouched file ?

[Spray-Cam Hell-Ram]

I sure do! Thanks!

[Spray-Cam Hell-Ram]

I posted the stock tune for you and if you need anything else just let me know. As far as pcm/tcm communications go, I do have a permanent CEL for U0100 "Lost communication with ecm/pcm A" but I wanna ay that I was told that this particular CEL is actually pretty common one that is set because of the tuning process itself. But if this is not the case, then I do have this U0100 code showing as permanent. But I am heavily leaning towards my issues with this truck stemming from a combination of possibly having jumped a tooth with my timing, which I am currently working to fix as we speak, and I've more than likely screwed up in one or more areas when writing both the engine and transmission tunes. My level of understanding when it comes to some of this torque management, is relatively low and I would not be surprised in the least if any of these more experienced tuners on our forum here were to find one or more tuning errors of which might cause my truck to enter "Limp Mode" after sifting through both of my tunes. And if not, they would likely find some form of a red flag in my tune and/or on my scanner's logs. You can actually see the very moment when my truck enters limp mode in every single log that I have saved recently. And it appears to happen in around the same timeframe, that being in the beginning and usually somewhere between 10-20 seconds into the log I believe, and in each and every log I've saved. So someone who fully knows what it is exactly that they are looking at could likely pin point that very moment when the truck enters limp mode and see what else changes around that time and likely come up with some sort of a plausible cause here perhaps. I'm hoping to be able to reassemble the front of the motor sometime this evening and have her all back together and ready either by late night tonight or sometime tomorrow morning. But right now I am having a lil battle with this front cam ring/gear and getting the notch/peg on this ring to stay right at 12 O'clock after setting it at 12 O'clock, because since I need to use the cam bolt to move the ring to 12 O'clock to begin with, and when I get it set at 12 O'clock and go to take the cam bolt back out, and so naturally, the front of the cam also spins while trying to remove the bolt initially and I end up back at square 1. I must have done something differently the first go around, because I do not recall this particular step for when you are resetting your timing marks, as being as much of a challenge as it seems to be this go around. Lol. Im sure whatever it is that I'm missing here is going to hit me at some point.

[nick859]

flyweel TQ.png I would say this is why it feels like it is going into limp mode should be set around 400 lbs TQ Trans Engine Torque Request = 1141 ft/lbs is what mine reads as well probably correct

[Spray-Cam Hell-Ram]

I'm not so sure that I am following you here correctly. Maybe I am misreading what you said or am confused by the table you posted because it seems to me like you are stating that my max flywheel torque should be set around 400 ft/lbs but then when I look at the table you posted, it shows 3.9 in each box? And I know that isnt my table because my table has the torques set, starting up top at around 287 ft/lbs and then working its way up to 410 in the 3k-4k rpm range and then slightly working back down to 350 ft/lbs towards the bottom. So whats the 3.9 showing here? Im probably just confused here.

[6.2_JGC]

did you ever figure out whats going on with the tune

[Spray-Cam Hell-Ram]

Yeah. It wasn't my tune at all. The U1424 code was present because my timing was off by a tooth and shortly after that, like Ray had suggested above, my pcm began to fail. I had originally installed a stage 3 cam and reused my stoxck heads and ported them but after tearing things apart I realized that my heads had some stripped thread issues at a few of the pedastal rocker shaft mounts so I ultimately decided to scrap the whole thing and start from scratch. Pullecd the block and had it hot dipped and cleaned and then the cylinders bored out 30 over. Got new heads that i sent to Katech to have ported and polished as well as a 5 angle valve job. After thorough research as well as much planning and idea spit-balling, I came up with this frankenstein-like head build combo idea I decided to take a shot at. I slightly upsized both the intake and exhaust valves and had katech perform the valve job to accommodate for this upsized mix n match valve set I decided to roll with. Im currently running aggressively ported eagle heads with 2.09" Trickflow Ford 351 Cleveland intake valves (+.250" length) and 1.62" (Actually measured at 1.61") Manley Extreme duty Chevy 6.2L LT1 exhaust valves. Decided to go the stroker route and installed a new Manley 4.05" stroke crank converting the build into a 396 stroker. Ive just finished the build and am back at tuning again. This time I have a whole other bank of issues. Primarily with fueling and wot tuning. my wide bands are off the charts and it pops and hesitates antyime I try to go full throttle but seems to do ok at half throttle.

[PurpleRam]

I like the use of the 2.09 Cleveland valve, I usually do 2.125 for the street and 2.14s for "race" Eagle heads.
As for the tune have you upped the Displacement in the tune ? or Manifold volume ? and or min air flow.

[Spray-Cam Hell-Ram]

Yea, I've tried a 2.16 intake valve set up in the past, along with some 1.65 exhaust valves, with roughly the same size cam. I believe it was a 224/234 .619/.611 cam, and while it was fairly strong up top, it just seemed to be slightly to much valve and wasn't quite as strong off the line and down low. I considered going with the 6.1L heads but felt I could get a bit more out of aggressively porting the 5.7L eagle heads and then going with valves somewhere in between like those that come in the 6.1L heads. And with the exhaust side being the weak point of the two, I figured I'd run the 2.09's and then go with a slightly upsized 1.62 valve on the exhaust side to open this side up and better match the Texas Speed 2" primary headers I was planning to throw in once they were released (They are installed currently). But going with the Cleveland 2.09's and the LT1 1.62's, I had some figuring to do as far as choice for valve springs and their install height was concerned, given the longer tip lengths of both compared to the 5.7L hemi valve set-up. So for this new cam set-up (228/238 .611/.602 +113.5), I came up with an installed height of 1.87" in place of the standard 1.98" eagle head install height This is the first time I've used mix n match valves in a head build, so I was a little nervous about the overall outcome. That being said, I'm figuring I must of done something right because though I still have quite a bit of tweaking to do here, this is the strongest set-up Ive had yet. I've got some areas that are still lean and a few spots that are running rich that I still need to figure out in my tune, as well as some exhaust popping when trying to lay into it sometimes (more so when it's cold). But I think if I can get this part figured out and dialed in, I might have something worthwhile here. Ill attach what my current tune looks like for those that want to take a look or for anyone with a 4th gen Ram 1500 running a bigger cam and needs something to compare to. It still a work in progress and still needs some ironing out in the VE tables and correction factors but should at least get you moving with a steady idle more than likely but use at your own risk. It is a NA stroker build and running a 92mm Hellcat throttle body. But hopefully Ray and the other vets out there can give me some advice on getting this thing dialed in better. Ray, I did change the size and displacement in the general section. Not sure if I did this correctly so let me know if this is the case. Also, its bored .020 over not .030 over. I forgot I had changed my mind just before it was machined, so it's a 394.5 actually or 394 stroker not a 396 like previously mentioned.

[Spray-Cam Hell-Ram]

And here is a portion of the log from last night running this tune.

[TaylorJ]

I've been following your truck here on HP, Sounds like a fun ride. once you get the fueling right it should eliminate the cold popping, which is most likely a cold lean deal.

I have a 14 ram more of a trailer queen, didn't have it out at all this year, last year made a lot of passes.
I'm running a 383(3.957X3.90,act 383.6CI) its a 06 block. 6.30 C to C rods ,Gibtech Pistons with a Pin height of 1.01 , I have to run thick head gaskets to because I'm running the Piston above DH , No VVT. right now the heads are Edelbrock with 2.165 Intake and 1.625 EX ,Valves are cut down stainless from Victory1,I started out with a pair of raw castings no valve seats installed, so I only opened them up to use a 1.625 valve,spring height is set at 2in, your 1.86ish height might come back and bite you, depending on coil bind. working on getting a pair of the new AFR heads.
My cam is custom .620 in take .605 ex ,Cam is 255/265 lsa is 108 , the trick to the "weak Eagle exhaust is ,ironically a larger valve, the port flows well once you get the valve opened up. but like you said the 1.64 valve in the smaller 3.97 bore takes away from bottom end performance, I need to work on getting some weight out of my current 14 race weight is 4250 , I know it'll run 10.50 or better once I get some weight out of it, PB so far has been 10.65 @130 thing pulls like a freight train on the big end thinks to the Holley Hiram

[Spray-Cam Hell-Ram]

Well. my springs coil bind at 1.190. And Ive always understood it that its best to set your valve spring height to give yourself somewhere between .05-.06 clearance from coil bind. So just to be on the safe side I set my valve full open spring coil compressed height to be 1.24/1.25, or .05/.06 from coil bind. With my cam's valve lift being .611/.602, so if I take my install height of 1.87 and subtract the cam's .611 intake lift, this gives me 1.259, and then I take 1.259 and subtract where coil bind is for my springs (1.190), I figure I should have right at .069 clearance from coil bind on the intake side and my exhaust side I actually set my valve spring height at 1.86, putting the exhaust side's valve spring fully compressed clearance right at .068, which I came up with by taking (1.86-.602=1.258, 1.258-1.19=.068). So if I am understanding this process correctly, I'd like to believe I should be good to go as far as avoiding coil bind is concerned with this set-up, and even have a little cushion here I feel. But if Im missing something or misunderstanding something with figuring valve spring install height, by all means, let me know. Im all ears and have so much still to learn Im sure. And I agree with need of a larger valve on the exhaust side as I too am running a 1.62 exhaust valve but opted for the 2.09 intake valve but with a steeper 45 degree angle in hopes to maximize the intake's side potential airflow. But I still have alot of tuning still on the table and will eventually cut some weight where I can and get a drag set-up ect. But first things first, Ive got to get this airflow and fueling sorted out. Watching my logs Im noticing my map pressures are swinging from as low as 18kpa, and even seen the 15kpa block register a timing reading but only between 3200-4000rpm and am seeing map as high as 110kpa-115kpa at times and want to say I saw it hit 118kpa once or twice. Is this normal, even at sea level? And as far as the exhaust popping any time I lay into it, should I be lowering VE block values at WOT here? Or should I be making changes in the enrichment aircharge table first? Its been pretty cold here lately too so Im also wondering if I have my IAT and ECT VE multiplier tables set correctly. Any help is appreciated.

[LilSick]

I can?t help you with the tuning side (yet) but yes, that is the proper way to set up a cyl head (spring wise) what are the open and closed pressures?

[LilSick]

I'm running a 383(3.957X3.90,act 383.6CI) its a 06 block. 6.30 C to C rods. 1.01 pin ht? pulls like a freight train on the big end thinks to the Holley Hiram

Your the first person I have heard admit running a long rod in a gen 3! Ratio still ends up barely over 1.6 but that is exactly what I am building.. I think a big part of the reason it pulls hard in high gear is the long rod and the tight 108 separation complimenting the port valve and manifold. Love your combo thx for sharing. What spring are you running that installs at 2? and what are your open and closed pressures?

[rays04gtx]

Your the first person I have heard admit running a long rod in a gen 3! Ratio still ends up barely over 1.6 but that is exactly what I am building.. I think a big part of the reason it pulls hard in high gear is the long rod and the tight 108 separation complimenting the port valve and manifold. Love your combo thx for sharing. What spring are you running that installs at 2? and what are your open and closed pressures?

Purple Ram is the guy you whose brain you want to pick on rod ratio in G3's His 800hp Naturally asperated 392(6.1base 4.08X3.75) runs a 6.30 rod at a 1.68 RR , the 900hp na 392 (6.1 base 4.055X3.79) also runs a 6.30 rod 1.66 RR and the 359-366 's he's found of building run a 6.30 rod also (3.9X x 3.72, 1.68 RR) actually a very simple build, Stock SRT392 crank,6.30 rods and stroker 392(5.7) pistons. fits nicely in the VVT block, need to trim the nose of the crank if you prefer the 03-08 block. Makes for a great package

he's built a few Drag pak style boosted G3s they run a 6.535 rod 4.10X3.40=359 Ci and north of 1200hp with a 3.3 Kenn Bell , 1.05 piston not ideal for street driving with that kind of boost.

He's built just about every combo you can think of with Rods from 6.0 to 6.7, 305ci(4.055X2.94, 6.7 rod 2.41 rr ) to 487ci.(4.22X4.35 , 6.10 rod 1.4 rr)

[LilSick]

I always lengthen the rod when increasing stroke. It is too bad mopar did not build em with a slightly taller deck height. (A actual deck would be nice too : )

The motor you pm me about is a small block Chevy btw, not a gen 3 Hemi.

[TaylorJ]

Your the first person I have heard admit running a long rod in a gen 3! Ratio still ends up barely over 1.6 but that is exactly what I am building.. I think a big part of the reason it pulls hard in high gear is the long rod and the tight 108 separation complimenting the port valve and manifold. Love your combo thx for sharing. What spring are you running that installs at 2? and what are your open and closed pressures?

Psi I have 1526 in it now .Had 1226 in there originally, but broke an Intake so I swapped to the 1526 because I had set.