L83 Swap 1971 C10 Suburban. (permanent) fault codes

[2stimpy]

I have been working on the swap for half a year and used An HPI harness for the wiring.
At first there where 2 wires mixed up from the ign and the wake relay.
Fixed that and the ecu started.

Tried starting the engine for a few times but could not get it to start.
Threw me the following codes.

0x7E8: P0113 - Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit High (Permanent)
0x7E8: P1682 - Driver 5 Line 2 (Permanent)
0x7E8: P2138 - Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch D/E Voltage Correlation (Permanent)
0x7E8: P2228 - Barometric Pressure (BARO) Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Permanent)

On my search I found out i had a Camaro pedal so I had to change a few wires on the connector.
Still no start so I looked at 12v while cranking, you guess it, 0volt at crank.
Hooked up a wire that does have 12v on crank and the engine fires right up.

It does smell a little rich but other than that it seems to run great.

I have only started a few times did a little driving on the driveway and let it idle until the engine reached operating temperature.

I still get the same codes. so I traced down all the wires from the mentioned sensors to the pins on the x1,x2 and x3 connector, and the are all connected correct.
I measured once again if all the powers get active as they should.
So I have no clue on what could be wrong.

Reading a bit more on the codes i read somewhere that (permanent) codes only go away if you solved the problem and drive a bit.

Now I think the first attempts to start, without the 12v on crank caused the codes.

My question is, may I assume the codes will go away? Does it no harm to drive the Suburban with these codes?

[Dominatorstang]

Sounds like you are doing well at working through these issues.
In general about permanent codes, you read correctly that they should go away once you have the issue fixed. But for some the ECM only triggers the check after certain conditions are met. But the ones you have on the list I would think will show they are corrected with in a key cycle or two if you do have the issue fixed. Should also show (current) if the issue still exists.

[2stimpy]

So today i drove the suburban for the first time.
It drives like sh#$. It seems like it does not want to rev because it sputters.
When I give it a little mere throttle it doe shift and make speed but every time it shifts, and drops to low rpm it starts to sputter.
There is obviously something wrong but I am just starting to learn about this.

Could someone look at my log and maybe point me in some direction to look at?

is it just the tune or could it be hardware that give me these results.

11-07-test run.hpl

[Dominatorstang]

Not sure how much this helps but looking at your log I would say the negative timing it is commanding under heavy throttle low RPM is giving you that feeling. Also the MAP getting 102kPA, are you below sea level? You may want to start logging knock retard and a few of the common Torque PID's to see why it is throwing negative timing in like that.

[2stimpy]

Thanks for pointing out a few things.
Map value is correct for my location.
I tried stock Silverado 2018 tune settings from the HPtuners repository applied to the tune from my ecu(tune from engine swap supply which is a little doubtful).
That was even worse.
Now I am trying to figure out what could cause neg timing. But also the bad rich smell from the exhaust.

I have doubts about the O2 sensors.

I got these O2 sensors from the same seller as the engine, the connectors from the HPI harness did not fit.
HPI mentioned a part number for the O2 sensors that should fit, so I bought a set. But the doen fit either.
So I modified the connector a bit so that i could connect the sensors i got with the engine.
Now I am starting to wonder if they could be wired wrong. Or maybe even not suit this engine.
I thought I would get a code if something would be wrong with the sensors.

I do get this.
foutcodes 2022-07-12 210505.jpg

Another thing I question is why throttle at idle is showing20.8%

[blindsquirrel]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ca0HYnQ7J7g

[Dominatorstang]

Map value is correct for my location.

I am sure it is, I was mostly teasing because I am jealous that my area does not get to those MAP values.

[2stimpy]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ca0HYnQ7J7g

Thanks for the tip, I'll try that tomorrow. Then I will also try to log some more important things.

I am sure it is, I was mostly teasing because I am jealous that my area does not get to those MAP values.

Ah ok, the higher, the leaner the air.

One other thing i find weird is the O2 voltages.
Below are the pictures from the log with high and low voltages.
But the values in the tune are somewhere in the middle.

Is the value in the tune correct?

low voltage lean neg timing.jpg
high voltage lean pos timing.jpg
O2 values in tune.jpg

I am just trying to understand things.

[2stimpy]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ca0HYnQ7J7g

This did not solve the entire problem
I forgot to save the log today. Throttle position is better but still drives verry bad. its pretty undrivable actually.

When I get on the gast, the engine sputters and feels like the transmission slips.

Should I clear LTFT?
If i do this could this do any harm?

Should I force open loop or closed loop, just to try?

[Dominatorstang]

I would say try and grab another log with more PID's on it. Especially with Torque and other spark corrections like Knock retard. Your low spark was a key factor to me in the log you posted before.
Also the scanner auto saves logs in this location "\Documents\HP Tuners\VCM Scanner\Logs". The only time you can not go there to grab a log you forgot to save is if the scanner crashes.

You may already have gone through some research to understand GenV, and I know many choices are out there. If you go to one of those resources and see what common PID's are to log then it will help you greatly to add those to your scanner logs. Below are what I log when looking into spark or torque.

spark timing.jpgtorque values.jpg

[2stimpy]

Yes I read some about the sensors to log. VCM also has built in a preset for the 2018 Silverado.
That is what I used on the latest log, together with some extra sensors.
Not all the selected sensors actually give a value.

This is the log after the accelerator reset.
22-07-13 19-33-13.hpl

It runs so bad that i almost can't believe its the tune.
I am afraid this will hunt me for a while.

[Dominatorstang]

I am pretty sure the negative spark timing is what you are feeling and why you are not creating power. I am noticing -27deg at WOT. The knock retard is not showing up as a value and also needing some commanded torque and max torque values to understand why you are getting negative timing commanded.

see attached below. open this channel config file into your scanner. It is a ton of channels and you wont need all of them for most future logs, but for me I like to log too many when troubleshooting so I have more info to see. I do notice having too many will slow down refresh of some channels too though.

[Dominatorstang]

Posting your tune file with the next log file would be great too. Something on it may jump out as the cause.

[2stimpy]

Another day, another try.
After reading that a faulty MAF could do strange things I thought I'd try it with the MAF disconnected.

So I started the engine let it idle a few seconds and disconnected the MAF.
It started running a bit loppy, but got more steady after a few moments.

So I started the first run (A) Noticed a much better drivable car.
At the end of the road I stopt shut down the engine and reconnected the MAF.
When I started driving again (C)I did not really notice any difference, and drove just like the first run.
I drove a bit longer because it felt a lot better then yesterday.
When I got home I noticed a bunch of extra codes(obviously). After deleting them I did another run (D).
Also with the same feeling.

So I am sure it has something to do with the MAF sensor. But is it a faulty MAF, a wrong MAF or something else.

All in all it is a step forward.

A without maf 22-07-14.hpl
C with maf B 22-07-14 18-58-26.hpl
D after deleting codes 22-07-14 19-09-14.hpl

2018 l83 5.3 6L80 engine swapp supply.hpt

[IARLLC]

Is the tube that the MAF is mounted in the exact same diameter as the original tube? If not, the diameter greatly affects the speed/mass of the air as the sensor sees it.

[2stimpy]

I have an aftermarket open air intake installed from Spectre. Its an aluminium tube so there is a difference. I don't know the diameter of the original tube. I would think the engine should run pretty normal with this intake.

The strange thing is that disconnecting the maf made a big difference. But reconnecting it didn't change anything.

[blindsquirrel]

Yeah you would think the tube shouldn't make a difference, except that the MAF doesn't actually measure air volume it measures air speed in a given cross section tube, and if you change anything at all about the shape, size, number or location of bends, you change the airspeed across the sensor and then it's no longer calibrated. That's what tuning is supposed to fix.

[2stimpy]

At least it is drivable now. So now I or probably someone else can start to tune.

But I am still puzzled with that disconnect and reconnect thing.
Could this mean that the MAF is faulty. Maybe I just try a new one. I got this used one with the engine.

[blindsquirrel]

For it to run without the MAF it has to be in speed density mode, and for that to happen there has to be one of the MAF codes set as Current, and that usually only happens after the second failure. You disconnecting the MAF while running, and then clearing codes, resets it back to non-failed state and isn't helping figure out if it runs better with or without MAF.

[2stimpy]

Thanks for explaining. I will try a few runs with MAF disconnected. The log does not show speed density. So it did indeed not reach that mode. I'll do some more testing.