5.3 l33 swapped into landrover discovery 2 tuning help

[LSROVER]

Hey guys,

I recently finished my 5.3 swap into a Land Rover Discovery 2. It utilizes the stock landrover transmission. All work was done by myself in my driveway including wiring and welding the exhaust. Having zero tuning experience I decided to use a mail order tuner to get it running.

Engine bay picture:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/VEStCrf27auDkEMr6

Short video of it running:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/ixiYwSVeMWhYuRNN7

Overall it idles and runs decently but has some part throttle hesitation and backfires (especially when cold). The throttle response feels a bit lackluster as well. Wanting to fine tune it more I entered down the rabbit hole of trying to learn how to tune the MAF and VE tables. I ended up getting the pro suite and AEM 30 wideband.

Can someone take a look at my tune and guide me in the right direction?

Setup:

5.33 L33
50 psi return-less base fuel pressure
BTR Truck Norris Cam
Sheet metal intake/102mm tb
No Cats
Bosch 42 lb Injectors 0280158051
Stock MAP sensor
Stock Truck MAF attached directly to the Intake Cone
TPS Voltage closed is .56v
IAC counts are around 30 when Idling

A few things I noticed:

1. The VE table does not appear to be tuned at all for my setup
2. Under Dynamic Airflow, the High RPM Disable is set at 1500 rpm. Does that mean above that RPM it is no longer relying on the VE tables?
3. Which leads me back to my suspicion that this tune is heavily reliant on MAF only....
4. The injectors flow rate table seems way off. I used a calculator I found online which gave me (for my base pressure of 50 psi):

45.0156381598747 45.3256632160722 45.6976932835092 46.0077183397066 46.3177433959041 46.6277684521016 46.9377935082991 47.2478185644966 47.5578436206941 47.8678686768915 48.177893733089 48.4879187892865 48.797943845484 49.1079689016815 49.417993957879 49.666014002837 49.9760390590344

Should I work off the existing injector flow table (since truck runs ok) or input the correct data based off my base fuel pressure and start over? I am also not sure if my injector pulse and offsets tables are correct. Does anyone have the correct data for my injectors?

I tried inputting the IFR based on the calculator I found and starting with MAF tuning (with the aem wideband). I followed a few guides (chopperdoc, gregski) and set the HIGH RPM disable to 200 and shut off any modifiers to start MAF tuning. I multiplied the current MAF table by 1.10 and started logging the MAS error in VCM scanner, multiplied by % etc etc a few times. The truck was NOT running well after. The only thing I can think of that I did wrong was that I did not go on a flat highway to do this. I live in a hilly area and was logging while driving through this terrain.

ANY HELP IS GREATLY APPRECIATED AS I AM DETERMINED ON GETTING THIS DRIVING THE BEST I CAN MYSELF (TIRED OF RELYING ON OTHERS)

Tune is uploaded along with an older log I took shortly after uploading that tune file to my PCM from the mail tuner.

Over the weekend I hooked up the AEM wideband to see what the WOT AFR was on tune from the mail order. I saw 12.2 ish. Idle swings between 13.7 and 14.7.

STFT -10 to -13 ish at idle
STFT at cruise is around -5

[Alvin]

Honestly the tune is kinda a mess. I'm surprised it idles even half way ok with the idle base spark tables it has.

Personally I'd start over or start over with a file from a good email tuner or something. I'm sorry I don't like to speak bad about other peoples work but it looks pretty crazy.

[PRS]

LS Rover- this is going to be a multi-month adventure for the majority of us who also balance sneaking away to tune for an hour here and there against time spent with family + friends + work. I'm by no means a professional or even consider myself advanced, but I've been tuning with HPT off and on over the last 15 years and have come to a general census that there's a "new build" process to follow to at least get the rig safe to drive.

1. Start with your hard-coded parameters in the tune. Fuel injector data. Throttle body data. Catalytic Converter yes/no parameters. Fuel type expectations and stoich ratio parameters. RPM limits. EGR yes/no. Fan temp parameters. Air pump yes/no. Tach output info. VATS. You said you're using the toyota trans, but i'll also throw in hard-coded transmission/gearing parameters for your tire and gear ratio(s).
2. Startup idle: If you can get the engine to fire and idle some-what OK and is stable enough to maybe drive around the neighborhood, start with the RussK idle config tuning - which will get you in the ballpark of a reliable idle you'll have to return to re-do later. Here's a great video tutorial. My advice is watch it twice before following along. He makes a couple mistakes and is from Canada so watch your units! https://youtu.be/xiqMzfmoBF0 Here's another video that does a good job at explaining some cause and effect in idle tuning: https://youtu.be/w6YTFH4LAmI
3. Disable MAF and convert to Open Loop Speed Density to calibrate your VE table. This is best done with a wideband O2, but I can and have done full builds with just narrowband O2's without power enrichment at first.
4. Somewhat at the same time as your VE tuning, watch for knock retard in the scanner and fine-tweak your spark tables while driving based on KR detected.
5. When VE is dialed in from idle to ~5000rpm or so, switch over to MAF tuning if you're ever going to let the engine run on MAF. Calibrate the MAF, or skip this step if you're staying in speed density.
6. With your fueling pretty well dialed in, return to the idle and startup tuning Russ K data collection to fine-tweak your idle now that spark and fueling are better dialed in. With a cable driven throttle body, adjust the TB as necessary to get your IAC counts in range.
7. Optional: Further fine-tune your spark around idle to get a rock solid and stable/reliable idle. For some reason I always tend to chase my tail during this step a bit.

After this process, which is by no means a complete list, you should have a vehicle that's at least driving to a point where you can use the base tune here as a launching pad for further fine-tweaking.

[LSROVER]

Found this info online that helped me get things more inline with a starting point. Previously I was inputting the IFR values at my vehicles base pressure of 50 psi. As soon as I changed it for base value of 58 psi (constant value in the calculator) and multiplied my maf table by 1.10 the truck started running well and I was in the ballpark to start calibrating the maf correctly:

"The real question then is if you install the 42 lb/hr injectors and use 43.5 psi as the injector rated fuel pressure, and 58 psi as your fuel rail pressure, why do the fuel trims go positive?

I've had the same issue tuning a 2002 Camaro that had 30 lb/hr Motorsport injectors. The car had a mild cam & AFR heads. Using 43.5 psi as the injector rated fuel pressure, the AFR was very lean at idle, and with a 13.0 commanded PE, the wot was as lean as 14.8 afr!

Once I changed the IFR table using 58 psi as the injector rated fuel pressure, the wot afr just needed to be tweaked using the maf afr error % histogram. The idle afr then was very close as well.

Russ Kemp"

[LSROVER]

It's not too clear on most tutorials but what is the tuning strategy for a blended tune of sd and maf?

Do you keep it in maf only and work your way up to wot then tune the SD only under 4k rpms?

Specifically, what is the sequence for WOT tuning to be on the safe side? Half throttle? Full throttle right off the bat watching afrs?

Do you still just tune the afr error against commanded (maf only) at WOT?

Sorry for all the questions as this part is not clear to me, yet.

[PRS]

It's not too clear on most tutorials but what is the tuning strategy for a blended tune of sd and maf?
I dial in the VE table first, then move on to MAF, then decide at what point I want MAF vs SD kicking in. If it's a sporty build I follow what GM does with the Corvette. If it's a daily driver I follow more of the GTO or the trucks.

Do you keep it in maf only and work your way up to wot then tune the SD only under 4k rpms?
I disable the MAF completely, and start with SD in blocks of roughly 1000 rpms. So idle, then 3k, then 4k, then 5k, then redline.

Specifically, what is the sequence for WOT tuning to be on the safe side? Half throttle? Full throttle right off the bat watching afrs?
Leave WOT tuning alone until you're almost done, in my opinion. Start with light throttle in blocks as mentioned above. You'll start to see the VE table dial in and you'll make the call when you feel its right to start pushing the limits and watching the AFR's (STFT's or Wide Band).

Do you still just tune the afr error against commanded (maf only) at WOT?
SD only first is my approach with spark tuning at the same time, then MAF only.

Sorry for all the questions as this part is not clear to me, yet.
No worries. Happy to help.

Answered in green above in line.

[LSROVER]

Answered in green above in line.

When you dial on 3k, 4k, 5k, redline.... Does the throttle position matter? Are you doing 3k, 4k, 5k, and redline at WOT?

[PRS]

When you dial on 3k, 4k, 5k, redline.... Does the throttle position matter? Are you doing 3k, 4k, 5k, and redline at WOT?

Not really IMO. Your computer is referencing MAP vs RPM regardless of throttle position. Not to say I don't try to hit as many variations though while SD and MaF tuning