Engine+Vehicle Dies only in Drive once revs hit 2000RPM

[arbartz95]

Alright, this is a weird one. I just got done rebuilding the motor in my 2004 Silverado SS. (oil pump went and spun a rod bearing, so now it's built up nicely for boost) Aside from rebuilding the motor I also went to the junkyard and did the electric fan conversion pulled from a newer truck. Electrically, that should be the only thing has changed (and I just copied the fan settings from a 2005 truck stock calibration).

All that being said, the issue I'm having is that the whole vehicle dies when I hit 2000RPM in Drive (and 3/2/1 on the shifter as well). However, Park and Neutral free rev fine all the way up, and even Reverse works perfectly. I've stood on the brakes to load it down and it still works fine. Put it in any forward gear though and as soon as the revs approach 2000RPM the voltage drops off (almost like the alternator stopped), then if I keep in it, once I surpass 2000RPM (or try to), everything dies. Engine, dash, lights, everything just drops out completely. This happens both with foot off the brake (trying to drive like normal) and standing on the brake (loading up the converter).

When I key cycle and read the codes I see two of concern:
P1626 - Theft Deterrent Fuel Enable Signal Not Received
U1301 - Class 2 Short to Battery

U1301 seems real concerning, as it indicates maybe a wire is chafed and is shorting out, but it's odd that it only occurs in drive, and is specifically RPM dependant, not load dependant (i.e. I was expecting if it was a wire chafing from the engine torquing over, I'd notice it sooner standing on the brakes, but that wasn't the case)

Just to confirm that I didn't eff something up on the fan wiring, I manually turned on Fan 1 and Fan 2 options in the scanner, and both work without causing faults elsewhere, so I think we're good there.

P1626, coupled with a suspiciously specific RPM and direction dependency started to make me think this is some security thing. So I went and disabled VATS (set from Serial to None, and disabled all anti-theft related DTCs), but it still hasn't fixed it.

Tune file and a log are attached.

Sorta frustrating, so any insight would be appreciated! I just want to get this thing back on the road...

Thanks!

[askkmb]

Id check all grounds. Specially battery to block and the one from head to firewall

[PRS]

Id check all grounds. Specially battery to block and the one from head to firewall

I second this.

Also add channels for torque management spark retard and watch what happens when you put it in drive.

[Hondaeater]

Try these channels out and lets see what the TM is doing.

If you would get it up to operating temperature about 180* or more, then idle for a few minutes. If you go for a drive that is fine too, but get a long and stable idle log.

You did not raise the Engine> Torque Management> Torque limit vs rpm>Trans torque and axle torque limits.