Originally Posted by
Tunercharged
With a decent spark profile of at least the stock amount of advance I would dial in fueling first. Then I use the knock sensors and grams air per cylinder and reported delivered Torque to dial in spark. I increase spark gradually and go back to readjust fueling if necessary with incremental spark increases where I want them such as in WOT areas. I increase until no more power is achieved but also checking the knock sensors as I am adjusting. If you are already getting knock with stock spark settings then just tighten everything down as best as possible in the engine bay, heat shields, tubing slapping other things, anything loose, especially exhaust parts. As you increase timing incrementally you will be able to see what is false and what is real knock. Once the timing and fueling are completely done I back down the amount of spark retard that burst knock can remove and I lower the length it can remove timing for. As you are more comfortable with the tune you can lower the amount of retard even more to suit your vehicle. I only modified my high octane table to achieve all my timing advance and I know there are other ways to do it but this allows all the factory adjustments for temp and pressure to still exist. So far it works amazing, I tuned in 100 degree plus weather and now it is around 70 degrees at night and everything is still spot on for my fueling and timing though more powerful. If you want you can lower timing retard for burst to a max of 2 or 3 degrees and lower the amount of time it retards while tuning because you will only raise timing 1 or 2 degrees in each area during tuning for each flash, test cycle, so that is your safety net still. Stop timing increase when power maxes out.