then u just have to licence the tune file and ur done, u cant write any changes till u have used credits to licence it then u can do it as many times as u want with that vehicle
then u just have to licence the tune file and ur done, u cant write any changes till u have used credits to licence it then u can do it as many times as u want with that vehicle
How do I "license the tune file"? There are no instructions for any of this.
Just went back to the HP ordering page to see what credits the MPVI2 came with. When ordering, step 2 was "universal credits" which I assumed would allow you to tune other "universal" cars. Does it actually mean that the $299 module doesn't have ANY credits and you can't even tune your one and only car without buying more credits? During the rest of the ordering process it requests your car details which I provided so I expected to be able to tune that specific car. I hope it isn't going to be another $100 to make this thing I bought work now..
Open the file with the interface plugged in. Click file and save as. It Will then bring up the licensing box allowing you to license itOriginally Posted by markeheiden
Found the problem. Had to purchase the 2 credits separately from the module! Spent the money loaded the credits and it worked right away. Duh, thought it was cheaper than it was but it's working now. Just have to figure out this tune..This tune is giving strong fuel smell at idle and coastdown. It also idles but won't take any throttle without stumbling or dying when cold, below maybe 50F.
Last edited by markeheiden; 12-17-2018 at 09:54 PM.
id prob disable the virtual flex fuel so it dosnt skew and fueling, if it stumbles when u give it throttle just look at the exact cell area when u use throttle and increase that area (main spark table) usually straight off idle can still be low if u increase the spark it will help could be around the 30-35 deg range should perk it up, also your VVE is way odd not sure whats going on there has it been adjusted before or 100% stock ?
The tune I have was done years ago by a shop remotely so it was a guess on their part. It started and ran very good straight away but always had the smelly idle and real cold stumble issues. I checked the tune against a stock 07 suburban in the repository. My vehicle configuration is different as: No DOD, No EGR, No VATS, No Flex fuel, No Cats. I compared every table I could find and the only differences are: Hot Power Enrich TPS Threshold vs. RPM Stock is 87 across the board, Mine is 50 across. Main Spark vs. Airmass vs. RPM Mine is higher at the low rpm's and lower at the high rpm's. Low Octane mine has even more spark down low and even less up high. Idle Base Spark vs. RPM vs. Cyl Air Mine has more advance across the board. I don't know where "VVE" is but I can tell you I can't get an A/F ratio to show up on a scan? It shows O2 sensor Mv but they are quite noisy and seem all over the place.
if u go into editor top left under edit then u will see virtual volumetric efficiency it will show a table and its best for all 4 to be the same, make sure ur in Advanced view also so u see everything (bottom of the edit tab "view") u will need a wideband to see OL AFR or u have to go by the 02's for CL part throttle, the VVE is the same as the other ive never seen them like that before to get it all good would be best to tune it to suit properly, the 02's will cycle which is normal for CL, if u go in the "oxygen sensors" tab copy over the ones that are highlighted different from the other tune it may help should be just the 3 differences
Thanks for all the help 07GTS. I hunted around quite a bit and discovered the Injector Boundry setup and raised it a bit from 1,500 rpm down and it now doesn't want to stall with throttle at real cold starts. The smell at idle got better too but on decel it is still there in any gear. I noticed my remote Tuner guy has changed around the stock DFCO settings and was wondering if this may have caused my rich decel issues? Here is the stock Suburban tune and the initial setup for the Jeep he gave me.
usually standard DFCO is pretty good and only worth changing if say u have a cam that makes the air qualifiers too high u can bump it up a little so it still engages DFCO, u should see in logs if ur in DFCO your 02's should be almost zero, your boundary raised one looks better but just have to see what works to suit your engine, my tps is close to yours and i have my cylair enable at .15 and .18 at 3000rpm and above then disable .18 and .19 at 3000 and above if u look at ur cyl air pid if ur close to it or not going under the enable just raise both up a little so its good again they all have to meet for it to enable, personally i dont use CFCO i disabled that, there should be a pid for DFCO also it will show if it working or not
You lost me at cylair enable and disable. What tab is that under? Can you post your tune file so I can see how you did that?
Thanks again.
its all in the DFCO section should be under the speed enable/disable, cylair enable/disable, throttle enable/disable, entry/exit spark, fuel cut delay, all the enable have to meet for it to work so if any one then reaches a disable it stops DFCO
Wow, I'll have to work on that. Is the purpose of DFCO to lower fuel by a certain amount whenever it is engaged? If so, I think it would help to engage it much higher than these factory tables. The exhaust gets strong fuel smell on decel in any gear at any speed and rpm. These tables all seem to be for 25mph and lower. Does that make any sense?
what it does it it cuts all fuel so ur engine is basically an air pump and only under no throttle decel should it be used, if ur getting fuel smell then it sounds like its not engaging if u dont see your 02's drop to almost zero then ur not in DFCO, the speed cut off should make it work above say 20mph so if ur under 20mph it will not enable so those will have to be lowered (sorry seen it but im in kph land so didnt catch on yours was mph) if i change mine to mph i have mine disable below 12mph or 1100rpm i also have a couple kph difference from enable to disable where enable is above disable, if u have it working too low speed or rpm it can affect coming back to idle or just low speed driving
Hello - this is a great thread! I am using to both learn tuning as a starting point and also to resolve an issue after a new build. Please let me know if I need to start another thread.
I am making some progress and learning quite a bit. I will continue to troubleshoot and repeat Step 1 with variations until I hopefully identify the issue.
Below is what I have so far if someone would be kind enough help point me in the right direction. (Initially was hoping to resolve enough to be able to drive to the tuner but I'm now I really want to tackle this)
2005 Corvette LS2 E40
Car had work done by previous owner and a tune. The car ran ok to me (I assume with little to compare to) before I did the rebuild:
236/238 .601/.605 113+2, Long tube headers, cats & 02 delete, Corsa mufflers, aftermarket air cleaner (stock intake manifold and TB)
Corvette2.hpt
New changes: rebuilt motor, CNC 243 heads, 236.2/238 .60444/.60484 113 (numbers provided by machine shop) - does missing the +2 degrees matter on the card?
Now the car will run until it warms up to 160 and goes into reduced power mode and dies with code P0068/P0106
Corvette Idle then die reduced power.hpl
Starting with step 1 of Big Mike's Procedure, it runs with no problem or DTCs
Corvette - Big Mike Method.hpt
Big Mike 1.hpl
**UPDATE - I did not let it run long enough - made 2nd attempt with more factory settings rather than previous owner tune and it still goes into REP:
Corvette - Big Mike Method fs Test.hpt
Big Mike fs 1 rep.hpl
Think I might have to start a new thread at this point as this issue may not be related to just the IDLE tuning.
Second part of step 1, reduced engine power returns at warm up temp however less violent and does not die.
Corvette - Big Mike Method Step2b - CTSV.hpt
Big Mike 2 CTSV.hpl
Doing some trial and error as I learn more about how the idle is controlled but hoping for some guidance from someone with experience! Thank you in advance!
P.S. - I don't mind the smell or very aggressive lope since this car is just for nice weather and back message
Last edited by ddc; 01-18-2019 at 04:37 PM.
After some searching, I ended up turning off the tests for 0068 AND 0106 and the Reduced Engine Power mode is gone at warm-up.
I love this thread. I've read it many times. I've read it forwards...backwards, front half, back half, all at once...
(sigh)
I'd like to thank "BigMike42 for his work along with all the others who've been active here. You guys have really helped me out.
As a result of much work and using the content here as a guide, I have the idle pretty darn stable at 700 rpm.
The engine in question is an LS7 in a 2012 ZO6. It uses a stock air filter assembly, a 102-mm TB and an MSD "Atomic Air Force" manifold. It has a Katech "Torquer 116" camshaft (220/244 @.050, .615/.648 lift, 116 LobeSep), stock valve sizes in heads ported by West Coast Cylinder Heads and stock injectors. The CR is stock. The exhaust is stock manifolds, a 2011 two-cat X-pipe and stock mufflers. Fuel is 91-oct E10.
I have one remaining problem with the engine's idle and off-idle performance.
If I blip the throttle, say...to 1800 rpm, RPM goes up, spark goes up to 26? where I have main spark set when the engine is at low cal air mass, then rpm comes down and spark goes to 17?, my idle spark setting, but...as idle RPM nears 7000, spark goes back up to 26? and stays there for a while, even though the throttle is closed and RPM is dropping towards 700. That advance causes RPM to spike up, again, but then, the spark drops back down and the engine takes a long time to return to idle. As the idle speed slowly comes down to 700, sometimes, it's also hunting but, finally, when it gets to 700 it stabilizes.
Ok...did you get all that?
The same thing happens is I bring the rpm up to 2000 or so, hold it for several seconds then left off the throttle.
I've tried all kinds of different ideas to fix the problem and, so far, I can't.
Let me know what you guys think.
Attached is my current cal file, a scan and the layout I use just for idle scanning.
19-01-18 13-26-36.hpl
BB2.73.hpt
Layout012319.Layout.xml
Hib Halverson
Just Another Tuner in Training.
Start with the basics. Put back the High and Low Octane spark advance values at idle and low airmass areas (0...3400 rpm and 0.08 ... 0.28 airmass). It will give you way better throttle response (=torque) as well as fuel consumption.
Also, increase Base Running Airflow with 2 grams (not lb/hr!!!).
That should be sufficient for now. And let it idle for 3...4 minutes or so before doing a test-drive.
I made those changes and they had no effect on the problem, however, putting the main spark tables back to where they were earlier, did help me ascertain that the amount of spark advance spikes back up after the throttle closes on a blip is exactly the sum of idle spark timing and the max. adaptive idle underspeed value (9?), so it seems that the system is dialing in underspeed spark when the engine rpm is higher than desired idle and, yeah, I looked at the adaptive tables and overspeed are negative spark values and underspeed is positive.
Still scratchin' my head on this one.
Last edited by Hib Halverson; 01-25-2019 at 08:19 PM.
Hib Halverson
Just Another Tuner in Training.
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