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Have you checked fuel pressure? Could be bleeding off overnight. Not everything is fixable with the laptop. Need to cover the basics first.

Way too phat on start up. She's fatter than Oprah in the 90s. I'd pull some out of the startup IPW and the cold engine OL table.

That cam will definitely run better in SD. 100%

The surging around 800-1000 RPM is the jump in timing and in the VE table. Make your timing the same up to 12 or 1400 RPM and that will take that out of the equation. Then put it in SD and dial in...

I'd clean the connector pins and try again. I've never seen a GEN4 PCM "brick" during a normal write process, especially a write calibration. HPtuners even has a recovery mode in the case that...

You won't get any help in the lounge section. Try posting in the GEN5 section.

You need to post this in the GEN3 section. You'll get no traffic here.

Get rid of 75% of your pids.

Your throttle blade it too far open, or you have an air leak, the IAC is going to zero. Drilling the hole bigger makes no sense.

The narrowbands aren't working....

You might wanna consider working with a different tuner because that guy don't know WTF he's doing.

Your data log you posted and even pointed out the time stamp, at the time stamp you pointed out...

The O2s aren't oscillating because the trims aren't working.

The VE doesn't "want" that shape that's why it's lean as Thanksgiving turkey at that cell.

The trims worked for the first 10...

It's dead ass lean. O2s are in the dirt.

@ 24 seconds it looks like a possible miss on bank 1.

The VE table does not look right. The shape in general can't be correct.

I'd dial in the VE...

Take a picture of the tip of the injector. I bet you'll be looking at the pintle.

Sounds like it has big injectors along with the LSA map sensor. Might want to get a set of stockers. No telling...

Turn closed loop back on and use the trims to dial in anything idle and part throttle. Leave the wideband for WOT.

"More cam" typically makes an engine less efficient in the lower RPMs. It does not increase airflow across the board.

Yeah it's kinda ugly. Who TF runs 32 degrees of idle timing???

Sounds like the system is under charged.

That makes no sense. None of those things are related.

So you intentionally jacked up the idle spark control tables for some stupid sound and now you're worried about why the car won't idle or return to idle properly. Got it!

It would seem logical to...

Laughing at "installs lumpy cam and complains about minimal bucking".

What are "other various mods"? Crank up the BRAF til it idles. You'll probably have to reset it later when you get everything thing else dialed in but if you add a bunch to your BRAF it'll probably...

Holy shit you ain't kidding. +/- 35 degrees @ 16 RPM error. WOW that's gotta shake the fenders off the car!!

Both axis are editable. Click on "engine speed" up at the top (your X axis) and this is what you'll see. Clicking on MAP on the left will allow you to edit that axis.

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There's at least a dozen things that contribute to your idle. It could be way too rich at idle. The idle airflow settings could be incorrect. Could be a variety of things or even multiple things...

Need a tune file and data log. No way to know what's been done, what hasn't been done, what's right or wrong.

Otherwise, this is what we're working with.

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That thing needs more BRAF and I'd put the throttle follower back to stock. Oh yeah the VVE need work too. And need to know the cam sensor code number to help diag.