VSE, He probably is the forefront of L5P maybe besides Banks lol
Type: Posts; User: ns158sl
VSE, He probably is the forefront of L5P maybe besides Banks lol
Do you have a log with Baro Pid and EGR?
Ive yet to understand DI. Everyone runs them on the lean side because of the cooling affect which does make sense. Banish released an article I think on a 6 cylinder, and he was running that to...
It is weird it Bank 1 switches a little bit after awhile? Like it isnt getting enough heat like a bad O2. Id put it in open loop through the scanner and see what it feels/sounds like to rule out...
You turned off adaptive idle?
Have you tried swapping O2's left to right?
Your over/under spark is ridiculous, im surprised it even idles through a garage shift lol. Go back to stock and reduce it again by 2/3 to get in the ballpark.
I usually buy the FRPP 80's to guarantee they are legit. It is an eye opener with how well ID injectors work. I guess it all comes down to how much HP do you plan on making? The LY6 injectors are...
Is it in open loop? If yes, Why? lol
Where is the IAT sensor located? You could also try to play with the main VE charge temp multiplier.
No. You need the offset data for those injectors. If you look at blind's spreadsheet, that would be the tables you need, but for the 80 lbers.
Im pretty sure ls7 lifters should be .070 to .100 preload. I think I'd double check with a dial indicator when you reset preload.
I'm assuming the pushrods aren't adjustable. Never seen that on a car engine before lol. Definitely nothing wrong with adjustable rockers, not needed for a hyd lifter though.
Do you know what lifters they are? Wouldn't hurt to set valves again by doing overlap.
Usually when there is insufficient airlfow capability, it is accompanied by map decreasing. Maybe not all the time, but most of the time.
You shouldnt have to put it into OL to fix the bucking for that small of a cam. Log again with the laptop connected to get better resolution.
Tune is typical MAF tune, probably most of your issues....
As in your VE is controlling all the fueling. Your VE is not correct/smooth(ish). Your spark around idle is rediculous also. I am surprised that thing runs/drives as well as it does. There are tuners...
Not being a dick, but maybe try a decent remote tuner instead of trying to delve into this on your own. What you can do is make sure everything is mechanically sound that could be giving you false...
Ok hold on. You are paying a guy to tune your car, and not just any internet warrior, but an OE Calibrator. Yet you are asking the forums?
The VE is still horrific. That is usually the first thing to dial in, especially , if you don't have a MAF. It is not Alpha-N lol. You are getting knock, im sure its false, id start with burst knock...
As far as AFR, i just didnt like how one of your O2's are going lean at the end, that could also be the archaic scanner delay. Vettes arent bad to pull a valve cover. Id maybe look at the springs...
I doubt it would be the TB, being the MAP doesnt tank when RPM is tanking. What heads and valvesprings?
Maybe someone can find something, do you have a wideband? Seems that it is leaning out towards the end of that gear. You can watch InjPW start to lower, whether that is a limiter or the MAF isnt...
Yeah I never did that with 4 speeds, I figured there was a way to tune for it with a CTC. For my personal experience I won't be doing this again, but I want to figure out how to work with these...
This confirms what I was thinking. Someday I might learn your screenshot skills, but I doubt it, lol.
I still stand at the TCM doesnt know how to adapt when the line pressure is high.
There...
Id try to figure out what hole is missing. Temp gun at the manifold/header, kill a cylinder with VCM controls, or unplug a coil or injector one at time.