2010 charger giving me fits

[white1]

Did our demon cam (220/231 .582/.582 112) in a 2010 charger R/T with a circle D 3200 converter.

Ive done this cam countless times in these cars, but this one is kicking my tail.

Sometimes it fires right up and is problem free. Other times it will die as you come to a stop (or it won't) or it will run fine, then die shifting from D to R, or R to D. After it dies, it takes a little effort to get started and idling again. Once it does start, its fine until it dies again.

I wonder if my timing is a tooth off, but unfortunately, I can only log desired cam angle, and not actual. It seems to be running too well for that, so I'm on to, is my fueling that far off (I doubt it) or do I have a converter acting up?

ANY help is greatly appreciated. I really don't want to pull the front cover again, but I will if that's what I need to do. Just hoping for some advice before I get that deep into it.

Also notice sometimes upon shifting, you have to give a little throttle before the gear engages

al hidalgo 2010 charger rt rev7 10-11-2022.hpt
stupid car.hpl

[PurpleRam]

I didn't look at the tune, but the last VVT car that acted like that was a 2012 SRT392Challenger , I had to play with Engine>torque model> Friction Loss (table 12882 ? , not sure off the top of my head) cam was a custom job , 224/228/.590/600 110, the other one that was freaky , thing would run for weeks on end fine, then out of the blue it would do some odd crap, ...same thing had to go in to the loss table and play with it till it didn't do funny stalling anymore, that cam was 244/243 .623/.636 112 in a 2010 Ram.

[white1]

I've played with those tables to keep from stalling coming to a stop. But I tune this cam in this setup on a regular basis and never have issues like this.

Not saying it's not in the tune, but it doesn't seem to be

[PurpleRam]

I get where you are coming from, some times theses cars have gremlins that just don’t fall in line, I’ve found that the 09-12’s can be more of a challenge, also some times you have to target a specific cell/rpm/aircharge

[mbray01]

Are you sure pushrods are correct length
number 1 issue that comes through my shop on dodges is incorrect pushrod length

[mbray01]

Also i have been told by more than a few dodge specific guys that swear a dodge ecm is only good for 10 years, after that they start developing gremlims

[rays04gtx]

I get where you are coming from, some times theses cars have gremlins that just don?t fall in line, I?ve found that the 09-12?s can be more of a challenge, also some times you have to target a specific cell/rpm/aircharge

Jackie's 2010 ram, this IS the Ram he's referring to , after about 3 weeks of Logs after Logs , that trouble spot it would only hit in certain situations, 704 to about 1300 RPMs, Truck would run great for weeks on end, then once in a while when the Temp was between 75 and 80 degrees , with ECT between 165-175.....Every car/truck is different. so is every area of this country

[Jfraser]

My computer is 16 years old, I have absolutely no issues with mine.

Now this i know isn't the same issue across the board cause well It's mopar. They all act up one way or another

[white1]

Are you sure pushrods are correct length
number 1 issue that comes through my shop on dodges is incorrect pushrod length

I'm 99% sure. Used the same pushrod length we use in almost all of our cam kits. Compression is good. Car runs great. Not every time, but many times it will run great until its warm, then it will die coming to an abrupt stop. It's generally difficult to get to idle after that. Once its running, it runs fine. If you gradually slow down, it generally will not die. Sometimes when I get back to the shop its fine, other times when I shift from D to R it will die.

What grabbed the customers attention was after he got it home was showing off to his friends, revved in park, and it died.
Seems like it's getting worse

I believe I have it narrowed down to either a driver in the PCM, or a torque converter issue. Trans fluid is good, converter shows unlocked, slip or locked, but Im wondering if the lockup clutch might not be fully disengaging and its slipping when it should be unlocked or something similar

[rays04gtx]

I'm 99% sure. Used the same pushrod length we use in almost all of our cam kits. Compression is good. Car runs great. Not every time, but many times it will run great until its warm, then it will die coming to an abrupt stop. It's generally difficult to get to idle after that. Once its running, it runs fine. If you gradually slow down, it generally will not die. Sometimes when I get back to the shop its fine, other times when I shift from D to R it will die.

What grabbed the customers attention was after he got it home was showing off to his friends, revved in park, and it died.
Seems like it's getting worse

I believe I have it narrowed down to either a driver in the PCM, or a torque converter issue. Trans fluid is good, converter shows unlocked, slip or locked, but Im wondering if the lockup clutch might not be fully disengaging and its slipping when it should be unlocked or something similar

Worse case , it's starting to spin a rod bearing.

[PurpleRam]

Did you ever get this one to act right?

[white1]

Did you ever get this one to act right?

I believe so. It was at a time we were slammed so I don't remember exactly what the fix was, but hes been happy for the past few weeks, so I assume there are no more issues.

[Spray-Cam Hell-Ram]

I just watched your log here and it seems to me that it almost had to be a fueling issue in the tune. Kind of seems as if it was pulling fuel during accel and adding on decel and pretty severely at that.

[white1]

iirc ir ended up being a MAP switch i had enabled/disabled and needed the other way