couple logs from today.
couple logs from today.
You must've fixed a lot. Pretty big change. With all the issues you've been addressing this is like starting from scratch for the 3rd time. It'll get there. I will say if there's a big swing on the next in the wrong direction then we'll have to figure out what's going on.
Hello again. I got carried away the other day trying to pressurize the intake looking for leaks. I couldn't get any pressure at all and could hear air going straight through the engine. I removed the intake to investigate. I did find a substantial leak where a ⅜ hose goes from the valve body into the valve cover. Apparently i didn't read anything that said block this port. Explains popping the dipstick out and excessive crankcase pressure. Anyhow
Now I am onto getting the oil sending unit correct for the gauge in the dash, the coolant gauge working and reinstall the intake. Sorry for leaving you hanging sirius.
Oh man lol you were pressurizing the crankcase through the breather. Yeah you have to re-route the PCV system for FI applications.
And it's no rush to me. Projects take time. I'll be here if you need me.
have the truck back together and was just about to send a log. the b@stard didnt save. its done that to me a few times. will try again on the way home.
hopefully you can get some data from that. seems to be running ok
i think i found the other two FINALLY
Ok it's what I thought. There's a fueling problem. Look at injector duty cycle trending with RPM at a constant MAP, yet the wideband is going way lean.
fueling_1.png
fueling_2.png
This wasn't a problem a few logs ago. Odd thing is you fixed vacuum leaks then fueling started to go downhill.
It's running out of flow or the regulator isn't maintaining pressure.
Good evening Sirius... or anyone else still checking in. I had a chance to go for a little cruise in the truck today. I put my camera snake through the firewall and a buddy watched the fp gauge from the passenger seat. It seems to run around 58psi unless decelerating where the engine is making plenty of vacuum and slowing the regulator down a bit. On mild acceleration it maintains, maybe drops to 55psi. When any more than mild acceleration the gauge begins to drop, seen it at 40psi at 5psi of boost. I think it should have been closer to 65 there. My guess is the sock in the tank, split hose in the tank or loose clamp, sound about right? Seems the flow is an issue, when asking for more the psi is dropping from lack of flow. I did add 20psi at idle to my regulator and at idle fuel pressure went close to 80. Time to drop the tank.
Possibly the reason this problem was being masked was the lack of exhaust getting to the turbo. With the gasket blown out on the crossover flange and blowing whatever boost I had into the valve cover, maybe there was just enough fuel(with lack of air)to keep the afr in check?
Something was masking the problem. You've done a lot of good work with the fixes you've made. I'm sure you'll get this one figured out, too.
Don't discount the idea of the reg itself being damaged.
I'm not making a vague hint that it is the reg for sure. Do like you're saying with the tank because that makes more sense. What I meant was it is possible the regulator is bad.
Hello again. We dropped the tank today. did find one hose clamp that wasnt super tight. did i cause all the issues? i dont know. just got back from running the truck. seems to run rich on the afr gauge anyhow but im not too sure what that means. also the truck will hold pressure once i shut it off. it didnt do that before tightening the hose clamp. same ol with the boost. never see it past about 4-6psi on the gauge. have a look at this log and let me know what you think. thanks Sirius.
Anyone see anything suspicious? Any input is much appreciated. Just an underwhelming experience driving this turd.
Looks like you got it figured out.
I roughed in the VE table on this one since the difference between commanded and actual was more or less consistent.
Reserve judgment on the turd until we're done lol.
Haha. Glad to see you showed up. I will load it up in the morning and give it a run, thanks for always showing up man!Originally Posted by SiriusC1024
After reading through a few pages here I have some things to say.
First, I primarily tune for other professional shops. That is by choice. The reason being, there's too many variables when building or modifying vehicles and the end user needs to be able to diagnose problems properly, professionally. There's just too much "sloppy" shit floating around on the web and everyone thinks they can make 1000 hp with a junkyard 5.3 and a Chinese ebay turbo.
I have procedures for everything I do. I use the same parts always. All my guys know to use the same parts, every time, every build.
I don't do:
Mystery injectors
Mystery MAP sensors
Mystery MAF sensors
Aftermarket ignition coils
Random spark plugs
There's probably more but y'all get the jist of it.
Every build gets name brand parts, mostly GM but name brand, and everything definitely gets high quality injectors if they're anything BUT GM.
I don't do open loop only tuning. I don't believe in it. I've seen plenty of widebands not setup correctly and at the very minimum I want the sanity check that narrow bands give you in addition to your wideband. Always remember, your GM ECU don't care what that wideband says. Widebands should be used for WOT only. Most of the tuning that needs to be done in a streetcar is low RPM low pulse width tuning. By using the computer's feedback correction, you not only speed up the process, but the computer will end up telling you things like if you're injectors are bottoming out.
Every vehicle needs a fuel pressure gauge during the tuning process. Mounted where it can be seen from the driver's seat. I have a pro style gauge with a 4 inch gauge and a 6 foot hose. It gets connected at the rail and taped to the windshield. If you don't know what the FP is, you shouldn't send your first tune out.
By doing the same thing every time, procedurally, and using the same parts as a rule, you can expect repeatable results. By minimizing your variables, you make things easier to diagnose.
Even tuning primarily for other shops, I bet half my time is coaching how to diagnose problems on their end.
I encourage all you guys that are more than eager to help others out, resist the urge to just start slingin tunes on builds you aren't familiar with. As a whole, especially on vehicles like this, we need to start asking for pictures of the build. We need to start asking more questions about the build, the process, the parts used, the tools and equipment available to the end user for the purpose of diagnosing problems.
Does the end user have:
Infrared temp gun
Fuel pressure gauge
Compression gauge
Leakdown gauge
Smoke machine
I consider all of these as must haves. I've talked more than a couple shops into buying a smoke machine.
This wasn't meant as a rant and I'm sorry if it came across as that. It is meant as an honest tip sheet to hopefully make everyone a little bit better at this stuff.
EFI specialist
Advanced diagnostics, tuning, emissions
HPtuners dealer and tech support
email=edcmat-l1@msn.com
Nobody with any sense would argue with that. It's just not practical given this forum format. Half the time someone asks for help they don't even bother with a tune or log.
I get what you're saying and I do appreciate it.
Hey Sirius, had a chance to get out and go for a run today after swapping a rear wheel bearing. It felt alot better today than it has felt the last few times. We monitored fuel pressure and seeing 65psi under boost at times so thats positive. Sometimes the gauge will dip to around 45psi but that usually decending on a hill with tons of vacuum. I do have a wastegate isuue and I will order a new one today. I ran with the reference line pinched and managed to see around 10psi but the gate opened right around there with little to no manifold reference even going to it.
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