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Thread: 2013 Ram 5.7 rear O2 sensors

  1. #1
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    2013 Ram 5.7 rear O2 sensors

    I have searched through the forum but have not found anything yet.
    I am new to tuning and no experience with it.
    i don`t see a way to disable the two rear O2 sensors in HPT.
    What am i missing? i have attached the stock file.[ATTACH]139128[/AT[ATTACH]
    Attached Files Attached Files

  2. #2
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    Here you go...
    2016 Ram CCSB Forged NA 396ci Stroker
    +2.5cc Flat/Dome Mahle Power-Pak Forged Pistons w/13.2/1 CR on E85
    Forged Manley 4.05" Stroke Crank/Speed Master Valvetrain
    Race Ported Eagles/Titanium 2.12"/Titanium 1.62" Valves
    Custom Cam 235/249 .629/.629 111LSA 110ICL+1Adv
    Ported Holley Hi-Ram Intake/NXpress Hi-Ram NO2 Plate kit w/250 Shot(4 sec)
    Tx Spd 2" Long Tubes/Active Viper Hood/2-Step
    ATI SD w/15% UD/Dual 450 Pumps/Fuel Cell in Bed/Demon 700cc Inj
    3800 stall/Det Tru-Trac/410 Gears

  3. #3
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    Thank you for helping

  4. #4
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    Interesting. I'm trying to do the same with my '14 R/T, installing catless mids for track use, and need to turn off the rear O2's. I compared the two files and only see that ECT rear was set to -326?F. That's all it takes to turn off the rears? Noice!!
    '14 Blacktop Challenger, 5.7L, sick speed, Corsa LT Headers & mids, SRT8 cat-back w/turndowns

  5. #5
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    if you do not care about a check engine light you do not even have to do that

  6. #6
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    Its actually positive 376 degrees that you would need to input.... and Lil Sick is right, you could simply disconnect the rear o2s if you don't mind the check engine light given that it's rare that the check engine light isn't lit up already for something else already. But if the rear o2s are the only codes causing a CEL in your case Tonyrb, try this and see if it gets rid of your check engine light...however, if you have other codes popping up other than rear O2s for your check engine light, this may only stop disabling the rear O2s from causing your check engine light
    2016 Ram CCSB Forged NA 396ci Stroker
    +2.5cc Flat/Dome Mahle Power-Pak Forged Pistons w/13.2/1 CR on E85
    Forged Manley 4.05" Stroke Crank/Speed Master Valvetrain
    Race Ported Eagles/Titanium 2.12"/Titanium 1.62" Valves
    Custom Cam 235/249 .629/.629 111LSA 110ICL+1Adv
    Ported Holley Hi-Ram Intake/NXpress Hi-Ram NO2 Plate kit w/250 Shot(4 sec)
    Tx Spd 2" Long Tubes/Active Viper Hood/2-Step
    ATI SD w/15% UD/Dual 450 Pumps/Fuel Cell in Bed/Demon 700cc Inj
    3800 stall/Det Tru-Trac/410 Gears

  7. #7
    Tuner in Training
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spray-Cam Hell-Ram View Post
    Its actually positive 376 degrees that you would need to input.... and Lil Sick is right, you could simply disconnect the rear o2s if you don't mind the check engine light given that it's rare that the check engine light isn't lit up already for something else already. But if the rear o2s are the only codes causing a CEL in your case Tonyrb, try this and see if it gets rid of your check engine light...however, if you have other codes popping up other than rear O2s for your check engine light, this may only stop disabling the rear O2s from causing your check engine light
    Ah, that makes more sense, being a + value and not a negative. I installed my headers and mids this weekend and took it out after making a few changes to the tune, including turning off about 14 CEL's pertaining to the B1S2 and B2S2. So far, no other lights as of yet but only drove it about 15-20 minutes in town, just to get some heat into it. I'm sure there's some room for improvement in the tune now, with the headers, but man it sounds good! I love the *ring* of long tube primaries. They simply produce their own, unique sound.

    I'm going to check my header and collector bolts tomorrow....as if I haven't spent enough time under/over it this weekend. But, as my dad used to say, "If you're going to do it, do it right".
    '14 Blacktop Challenger, 5.7L, sick speed, Corsa LT Headers & mids, SRT8 cat-back w/turndowns