Like the title says. I'm lookin for injector recommendations.
I got a 2007 Silverado Classic 1500 / LQ4 6.0L / Sloppy Stage 2 Cam.
I picked up a cheap GT45 Turbo and need some injector recommendations.
Let me know if any other information is needed?
Thanks!
1961 Chevrolet Impala Convertible 348 / 700R4 / 13x7 Spokes w/ White Walls
2007 Silverado Classic 1500 Std. Cab Short Box LQ4 / 4L60E / Long Tube Headers / Race Bullet Mufflers / Sloppy Stage 2 Cam / BTR Chromoly Pushrods / Pac 1218 Valve Springs / Michigan Motorsports Trunion Kit / Lowered / 24's
2002 Silverado 2500HD LQ4 6in Lift / 35's on 20's
2011 Cadillac Escalade
2000 Honda Civic 2 Coupe / Lowered / 16's
How much power do you plan to make?
2016 Silverado CCSB 5.3/6L80e, not as slow but still heavy.
If you don't post your tune and logs when you have questions you aren't helping yourself.
All the other information is needed. Like fuel system/regulator type, and intended use (daily driver low boost, weekend toy, dedicated balls-out max boost race?), and injector dimensions (length?).
That turbo will do a max of 700-750 at the crank maxed out, but will you push it that far? If you have a returnless/non-referenced fuel system you'll need bigger injectors the more boost you plan to run, since boost (above normal atmosphere) effectively lowers the pressure across the injector (and injector flow rate). A referenced, 1:1 regulator set to 58 carries the same flow rate all the way from deep vacuum to however much boost you can make. 750hp returnless@58, with 20psi boost, needs 67lb-hr. But the same 750/20psi with a referenced regulator at 58psi base only needs 54lb-hr.
With your knowledge, what is a good quality regulator that will do this reliably ?Originally Posted by blindsquirrel
https://forum.hptuners.com/showthread.php?97422
So.. What was the results? I seen the diaphragm but no info?
Dont get me wrong, i love lamp.
Yes, it holds key-off pressure. Will it hold up long-term without a real hardened & ground seat/pintle? Don't know, I will retrofit it with an insert if it fails. All the other brands dismiss holding key-off pressure as a bad thing, I suspect as a rationalization for why it's OK to build their regulators as cheaply as possible. It's good for them so it must be good in general and don't think about it too much, OK?
It's good for a carbureted bypass regulator to not hold pressure because a needle&seat in a carb isn't all that foolproof a method of sealing and shit just happens sometimes. It's actively bad for EFI to not hold pressure, especially during the hot soak period.
Oh I get it, a carb wouldnt work being pressure would just overcome the float and flood.
I meant what did you settle on for brand?
Fuelab. None of the others I talked to could even understand why holding key-off pressure with EFI could possibly be a good thing, and all claimed that making it leak when the pump shuts off somehow improves the regulator's performance.
WHOA! WHOA!
We are talking my injectors not someone else's fuel pressure regulator! Lol! Na just kidding all information is good information. I appreciate the people who chimed in.
Sorry it took a bit to get back into the thread. On my truck I still have the stock fuel system. I wanna say it's return less? I wouldn't say the truck is my daily but I do drive it as nuch as I can. I'll grab the truck keys over all my other keys. When I drive it and the coast is clear I'll run that shit as hard as it can go! Lol. The way the truck is I'd say I'm maybe about 400hp. Shit I'd love to have 700-750 hp at my leisure. Lol! I'd be happy to be in the 500-600 hp range to get the system set up and goin and thru time upgrade shit. This would be the first time I've had a turbo. Apart from injectors. Ok which fuel pressure regulator and fuel pump?
Once again thanks to those who chime in.
1961 Chevrolet Impala Convertible 348 / 700R4 / 13x7 Spokes w/ White Walls
2007 Silverado Classic 1500 Std. Cab Short Box LQ4 / 4L60E / Long Tube Headers / Race Bullet Mufflers / Sloppy Stage 2 Cam / BTR Chromoly Pushrods / Pac 1218 Valve Springs / Michigan Motorsports Trunion Kit / Lowered / 24's
2002 Silverado 2500HD LQ4 6in Lift / 35's on 20's
2011 Cadillac Escalade
2000 Honda Civic 2 Coupe / Lowered / 16's
Gen 3 truck intake, or Gen 4? Long, medium, or short injector?
Are you looking for a specific part number recommendation or just general sizing info? Because sizing you can get with a webpage and a little careful thinking about fuel system type and effective pressures...
https://fuelinjectorclinic.com/flow-calculator
For instance, if it's 58psi base and returnless and you want to account for 20psi boost, your effective pressure across the injector is 58 - 20 = only 38psi. But if you change to a referenced regulator it's always 58psi higher in the rail than whatever it is in the manifold (and that's whether there is vacuum in which case you get less than 58 in the rail, or boost which gives more than 58 in the rail).
Sorry bout that.
Gen 3 truck intake. I currently have GM flex fuel injectors in the truck. 10, 15, maybe 20 lbs of boost. If possible i'd like to know some good brands that tune well. I've been seeing alot of deka 60, and deka 80 around the forums.
Thanks
1961 Chevrolet Impala Convertible 348 / 700R4 / 13x7 Spokes w/ White Walls
2007 Silverado Classic 1500 Std. Cab Short Box LQ4 / 4L60E / Long Tube Headers / Race Bullet Mufflers / Sloppy Stage 2 Cam / BTR Chromoly Pushrods / Pac 1218 Valve Springs / Michigan Motorsports Trunion Kit / Lowered / 24's
2002 Silverado 2500HD LQ4 6in Lift / 35's on 20's
2011 Cadillac Escalade
2000 Honda Civic 2 Coupe / Lowered / 16's
If there is only a single feed line going to the rail then it's 'returnless'. If there is a feed line and a regulator on the rail with a little vacuum hose going to it and a return hose from the rail back to the tank it's 'return'.
Deka 60's are 72lbs @ 58psi, so if it stays returnless and it's 20psi boost they only flow 58lbs, not enough if the goal is make it safe for 750hp at the crank (and if that turbo is able to make 20psi, and 20psi is what it needs to make 750...). However they will be enough if you have a boost referenced regulator.
If you want to leave the rest of the fuel system stock-style you'll need 80's.
Pick a brand you like, find the fitment you need, make sure all the data (ALL the data) is available before you decide.
And don’t buy from Amazon or eBay unless a very experienced tuner has bought from that exact seller before.
I'm having good results doing a tune using Deka 80's with a vacuum-referenced reg set to 3bar (43.5psi). Started with 4bar using the AACorvette Deka 80 data, but it' was tuning like garbage. I converted the Continental injector characterization, which was done at 3bar, to GM format. Deka 80's flow 77.5lb/hr here, and being able to have truly accurate Offset and SPA helps immensely.
Referenced reg also helps keep things more predictable, or a better chance of making up for any errors with other parts of the tune, since all the columns are the same no matter the rail/manifold pressure.
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