Dyno tune or toone??

[matthewallison85]

paid for dyno and tuning. Car made 810hp.
My concern is the commanded PE is much lower than the actual AFR/Lambda. I'm no tuner but I want to insure my engine will live.
Please review and give feedback.

[Kyle_Customizer]

What does this consist of build wise.... attach tune for someone to critique it. However, from the logs, the MAF is maxed out at 6k rpm and you're going above that and fueling goes leaner than commanded. Commanded AFR is 18's so I'm guessing they doubled the stoich and halved the IFR for larger injectors, but who knows without a tune file to see. I don't see and knock, however, how aggressive did they tune them, again no tune to see. Over 20lbs boost and .82 lambda (even with ethanol) is pretty aggressive, so I hope the build specs support that.

EDIT: 12PSI, I don't know where I got 20 from

[matthewallison85]

Okay I will download the tune tonight and Post it.
the build is a stock 6.0 with ring gap ARP studs, heads and cam with a 85mm turbo it has ID1300 injectors.
Is it normal for the commanded AFR to be way different than the commanded afr?
I also thought it was odd there was no knock at all could that have been disabled?

[Kyle_Customizer]

Stock pistons? Thats asking a lot for stock pistons. Crank should be fine, but I would have forged pistons and good rods for that to live any more than a few runs. Is this driven on the street or track only?

Also, yes, knock sensors can be adjusted to more sensitive than stock all to way to nothing reported.

[matthewallison85]

yes stock pistons.
Are you saying the timing is to heavy?

[Lakegoat]

Here is the chart. At 6800rpm, you are at 12.9# boost and 4.7% lean. It would be a lot better to be a little rich -- especially stock pistons. The pistons will heat up and the top ring land above the top ring will get crispy and break off. Probably get shoved out the exhaust valve and wind up in your muffler. Isn't there a maf patch to increase the maf hz?

[Kyle_Customizer]

When it comes to parts in general, there's a max point before they fail. When it comes to pistons, the main things you have to have control of cylinder temperature and cylinder pressure. Typically, on stock pistons I would stop around 12psi with turbo (10 with a PD blower) and go a little richer under WOT to control temps. But that's just me, I like longevity, and that is the point where things can start to go wrong quickly. If there's any detonation going on, that escalates possible damage to the pistons quiet rapidly. It's hard to say if 20 degrees is too much or not. Most 6.0 are 9ish to 1 compression, so it's not impossible to see 20 degrees with higher content of E. However, the engine sensors will usually tell you if something is going on. That's assuming they are turned on and working as designed though.

All of this is dependent on how it's being used as well. If this is a 1/4 runner on the weekends, then that's one thing. It's completely different animal if you are going to play on the streets and be WOT for 1-2 miles. 1/4-mile cars can be more forgiving on the tune than others.

Thats just my 2 cents.

[matthewallison85]

Thanks all for the support and information I forgot the car is in the chassis shop getting Door bars installed.
I was told this OS has little to no support.

I feel timing should be 18ish degreed and fuel at about .78 lambda.

[matthewallison85]

When it comes to parts in general, there's a max point before they fail. When it comes to pistons, the main things you have to have control of cylinder temperature and cylinder pressure. Typically, on stock pistons I would stop around 12psi with turbo (10 with a PD blower) and go a little richer under WOT to control temps. But that's just me, I like longevity, and that is the point where things can start to go wrong quickly. If there's any detonation going on, that escalates possible damage to the pistons quiet rapidly. It's hard to say if 20 degrees is too much or not. Most 6.0 are 9ish to 1 compression, so it's not impossible to see 20 degrees with higher content of E. However, the engine sensors will usually tell you if something is going on. That's assuming they are turned on and working as designed though.

All of this is dependent on how it's being used as well. If this is a 1/4 runner on the weekends, then that's one thing. It's completely different animal if you are going to play on the streets and be WOT for 1-2 miles. 1/4-mile cars can be more forgiving on the tune than others.

That's just my 2 cents.

This is a weekend worrier 1/4 mile rips. 90% driver 10% 1/4 mile Drag car. probably see 3k miles a year. but still i want to be on the conservative side and i feel like this tune is on the ragged edge. just seeking opinions I thank you for taking the time to responded.

[Kyle_Customizer]

Thanks all for the support and information I forgot the car is in the chassis shop getting Door bars installed.
I was told this OS has little to no support.

I feel timing should be 18ish degreed and fuel at about .78 lambda.

I would say that's more appropriate as well. You will have to see if you can scale the ECM more to get more fueling (it's maxed at 655g/sec at 6k) or shift sooner (where's the fun in that) or see if it has a 2bar or 3bar OS patch available to get the fueling under control. When you get the file and post it, I am sure someone will post up and say which method would suit you best.

[Alvin]

paid for dyno and tuning. Car made 810hp.
My concern is the commanded PE is much lower than the actual AFR/Lambda. I'm no tuner but I want to insure my engine will live.
Please review and give feedback.

.87 l at that much boost is prime melt stuff down AFR. Id have that fixed fast. Especially with that much timing. Are the knock sensors turned off ? Bring it up to your tuner. That is NA WOT fueling.

[STAGEUP]

Compression ratio on your engine will tell you where you want your WOT advance. But one thing is certain, its needs FUEL!!!!! Regardless of anything else

[04silverado6.0]

Why not post the tune?

[matthewallison85]

Why not post the tune?

I will on Monday. The car is in the chassis shop getting some bars added to the cage. In hindsight, I apologize for the delay—I may have posted this too hastily.

[matthewallison85]

Please review here is the tune file.
The tuner sent me this file and said it 5% richer above 12900hz

[Lakegoat]

The only way to tell if it is richer is to log a run. There is a zig zag in your maf chart higher up. We didn't see the original tune, so we can't tell if he added 5%. I didn't see an option for adding a 2bar system. Some E38's had it, some didn't.
Do you have a boost referenced fuel regulator?
What injectors do you have? Fuel pump?

[matthewallison85]

Yes,
I have a boost reference FPR with Duel 450's and ID1300.

So how would someone add fuel up top in boost? would they use MAF table or VVE table ?

[Lakegoat]

Both tables.
However, your VVE table is limited to 105 map, so the computer would go by the last row---so your maf will be the primary fueling.
I am not sure if you can stretch your VE table to cover 15# boost. Some you can. I modified my VE table but I have a different OS than you do.
Post the question !!

[matthewallison85]

Okay I think I got Ripped off.

[edcmat-l1]

Both tables.
However, your VVE table is limited to 105 map, so the computer would go by the last row---so your maf will be the primary fueling.
I am not sure if you can stretch your VE table to cover 15# boost. Some you can. I modified my VE table but I have a different OS than you do.
Post the question !!

All E38s have a 3 bar VVE. You have to change the MAP axis to see it but it's always there.

In the OP's case, the VVE over 105 Kpa looks untouched.

MAF isn't maxed.

Car is being run in the wrong gear.

Timing does seem pretty high. It's closer to 15 psi, not 12.

What spark plugs are in it?