noob trying to learn e38 l76 cam swap stutter/lean state

[ineptmath]

ok so all the settings u gave me earlier i put back to the data u gave me(stock some numbers enhanced by u) i included log with complete warmup and then around the block, i still ran into a lil bit of stuttering but nothing major that i have ran into yet, that could be completely different tomorrow when its 30degree cel haha.

so i know i can tune out that lil stutter (in coasting 2/3 gear or trying to let car just idle along eg. parking area driving and 1st gear take off.) by adding some air to BRAF cels. ive logged that @ 800rpm the braf wants about 11-12g so do i input that into the cel and then just smooth out to the boundary ?
i know that will solve the issue but i kind of what to know WHAT the best/most efficient solution is as i wanna learn this stuff properly.. i mean any one can hack anything and make it just do a thing. if that makes sense.

if some ones ganna take the time to give me some guidance here can u please do a screen shot and shot me where u saw it so that i can add to my knowledge base thank you in advance.

im going to keep reading and reviewing and smooth some stuff out that i find. look forward to the guidance cheers.

also so i sold my first complete from short block rebuild salvage car today that i tuned to work(prime example of just getting it to work lol gave them full disclosure to take it to a tuner and it was to a dealer) but man the sens of pride after seeing it go from what it was, to being in the passenger seat while a car person pedal to the metal'd it and stress tested it. and them turn around and say how good it was. god dam feelsgoodman

just realized i missed a few values rushing, i will do another log once traffic settles down and give it a good run and stare at this screen for abit and see what jumps out at me. noticed ive developed a discrepancy between stft banks which is indicative of a exhaust leak ?, which would correlate with issues i had with car i will bog those and see if that fix's it

[Cringer]

ok so all the settings u gave me earlier i put back to the data u gave me(stock some numbers enhanced by u) i included log with complete warmup and then around the block, i still ran into a lil bit of stuttering but nothing major that i have ran into yet, that could be completely different tomorrow when its 30degree cel haha.

so i know i can tune out that lil stutter (in coasting 2/3 gear or trying to let car just idle along eg. parking area driving and 1st gear take off.) by adding some air to BRAF cels. ive logged that @ 800rpm the braf wants about 11-12g so do i input that into the cel and then just smooth out to the boundary ?
i know that will solve the issue but i kind of what to know WHAT the best/most efficient solution is as i wanna learn this stuff properly.. i mean any one can hack anything and make it just do a thing. if that makes sense.

if some ones ganna take the time to give me some guidance here can u please do a screen shot and shot me where u saw it so that i can add to my knowledge base thank you in advance.

im going to keep reading and reviewing and smooth some stuff out that i find. look forward to the guidance cheers.

also so i sold my first complete from short block rebuild salvage car today that i tuned to work(prime example of just getting it to work lol gave them full disclosure to take it to a tuner and it was to a dealer) but man the sens of pride after seeing it go from what it was, to being in the passenger seat while a car person pedal to the metal'd it and stress tested it. and them turn around and say how good it was. god dam feelsgoodman

just realized i missed a few values rushing, i will do another log once traffic settles down and give it a good run and stare at this screen for abit and see what jumps out at me. noticed ive developed a discrepancy between stft banks which is indicative of a exhaust leak ?, which would correlate with issues i had with car i will bog those and see if that fix's it

In the attached log, can you please point out to me this "stutter". What is you definition of a stutter? How do you produce? Why did you set Dynamic Air disable back to 100 rpm again?

[ineptmath]

here from above log. to replicate like 2nd/3rd gear coming down the street slowly off pedal, car will be very jerky and i know that adding some braf in those areas will fix it now. then its just fine tuning it. i just want to know is this the way that i should do it? or should i be using a different table first ? yes i apologize i ended up with only a half complete file to flash. i get fairly swamped in my readings (10 copies of hptuners open 100 tabs*2 computers from the guy that asked about compute expense. yer i know.)

so a violent jerky ness in idle 2nd/3 gear cruising either from cruising down or just letting the cars mechanics and tune upgear it self. that is fixable by tuning min air to said areas

i have since driven car with a complete copy of you file and retuned braf(min air) settings and its driveable. and i can break it and fix it on demand.

yer so i really just want to know the why and which way i SHOULD be trying to do it. im going to take the day to read banish's book now that i understand all the basics abit better maybe his work will sink in easier.

lastly whilst i have you. why should i be running all the stock idle under/over timings and min timings as apposed to how ive seen 3 other tuners files just set the whole table to what they want ?. why have they done it why shouldnt i
thanks man

[ns158sl]

Why is trans temp at -40? Unless I'm blind, I didn't see if you are logging current gear? I think I see the issue of super aggressive timing changes, but unsure if that is what your are talking about.

[ineptmath]

manual car, i just had pid logged from working on another car. yes im going to play with timing next. was just seeing what was happening with settings that id been given to try. its on my list of jobs and i think u may have some validity i do have a video saved some where of how they map smoother timing tables.timing table.png ive also noticed who ever did this timing table when i got the car has gone over the MBT, eg. 2,600 * .08 . i think that was half my problem in the journey i started trying to fix things instead of learning how to just do it from the bottom up. ill get to working on these next.

[ns158sl]

Main thing is to get VE/MAF inline. With a cam, you are going to need to soften/smooth timing changes.

[Cringer]

here from above log. to replicate like 2nd/3rd gear coming down the street slowly off pedal, car will be very jerky and i know that adding some braf in those areas will fix it now. then its just fine tuning it. i just want to know is this the way that i should do it? or should i be using a different table first ? yes i apologize i ended up with only a half complete file to flash. i get fairly swamped in my readings (10 copies of hptuners open 100 tabs*2 computers from the guy that asked about compute expense. yer i know.)

so a violent jerky ness in idle 2nd/3 gear cruising either from cruising down or just letting the cars mechanics and tune upgear it self. that is fixable by tuning min air to said areas

i have since driven car with a complete copy of you file and retuned braf(min air) settings and its driveable. and i can break it and fix it on demand.

yer so i really just want to know the why and which way i SHOULD be trying to do it. im going to take the day to read banish's book now that i understand all the basics abit better maybe his work will sink in easier.

lastly whilst i have you. why should i be running all the stock idle under/over timings and min timings as apposed to how ive seen 3 other tuners files just set the whole table to what they want ?. why have they done it why shouldnt i
thanks man

Sounds like you are describing bucking from an aftermarket cam. It happens at low RPM and low MAP readings. Stay out of those areas and don't lug it.

I would NOT add BRAF/Min Final Air. That will cause the car to drive itself when trying to return to idle. I have a different view point on Min Final Air than most. For most people this is their primary idle tuning parameter. But it is really a safety net and should only be used by the ECM in an emergency stall saver scenario. Otherwise excessive timing has to be pulled when you hit Min Final Air.

"ive seen 3 other tuners files just set the whole table to what they want"
Because people don't know how to tune and monkey see monkey do.

[ineptmath]

thats basically what i was thinking, just wanted to hear your opinion on it. yes thats whats happening i think im about to start smoothing out my high/low timing tables.

when you say stay out of those areas are you saying just cop it, as" it is what it is" and ride the clutch abit through car parks ?
or make it idle higher and up the rpm amounts to just before self driving ?

For idle and coast down you gave me tables with around 18* should i model my high and low off of that ?.
and then ive read and seen in adaptives over unders i should be taking 50% off the tables, and locking gear coast down to 5? whats your opinion on this ?
i read that the halving of the tables is because cams in gen4 dont really like the big swing in timing.
the locking its just a trend ive seen.

[ns158sl]

Engines with a lot of overlap/egr are going to be extremely reactive to spark and fuel. Easiest way to address your issue is figure out what areas you are getting the "bucking". Flatten timing in that area and try it again.

If you have timing bouncing excessively, that will be instantly producing and then instantly taking away torque, which is what you are feeling.

Also at low airmass and lower rpm, combustion is less than ideal, so usually it will take a lot of spark to get a decent torque to begin with.

[ineptmath]

thanks for explanation