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Thank you to the original poster but now this info is over a year old and we have new info to help us even more
DISABLE ALL TORQUE MANAGEMENT
Your a hardcore racer now why do you need a computer to tell you how much power you can have.
1: Open your editor, go to Edit>Transmission>Torque Management.
2: Set Abuse Mode Enable False
3: Set Abuse Mode RPM, Abuse Mode TPS and Abuse Mode Speed to 0
4: click over on Abuse Mode Torque Reduction vs RPM. I am referring to An A4 camaro SS here so dunno about anyone else. Set all values in Normal to 0.
5: You should now have NO TORQUE MANAGEMENT.
160 or 180* FAN CONTROL SETTINGS largely depend on your location. Cooler climates can get away with colder fan settings while hotter climates may need to raise their set temps. 160* stat may need high 170's to low 180's on temps while the 180* stat may need mid 180's to mid 190's.
IDLE TUNING
Some good things to scan:
LTIT (p/n, in gear depending on transmission and which settings you are looking to change)
STIT
RPM
Spark
ECT
MAP
just to name a few...
Idle desired RPM: Depending on the cam and transmission type will effect your RPM settings. The reason for increasing RPM is to smooth out the idle and help drivability. Raising the idle results in more manifold vacuum. After doing a cam you lose a decent amount of vacuum. For cams in the 210-230 duration range 50-100 rpm over stock works well, 230-240 range 75-150 rpm over stock will work well. Too high of RPM settings may max out your IAC motor on cold start, to stay out of that range, keep the cold start idle so the IAC motor will not be close to 310 steps.
Idle airflow: Log the STIT and LTIT and add the 2 together. With a manual you will use LTIT in gear all the time, autos will use the respective LTIT depedning on the gear selector position. Add the 2 values together (or make a custom histogram) and make chagnes based on ECT. Say 30*C STIT is -0.30 g/sec and LTIT is 0.10 g/sec, you want to subract 0.20 g/sec from the 30*C cell in the idle airflow table. It is important to make these changes only from a cold start as they will give the most accurate data. Make sure it is logging and you make corrections in metric as it adds better resolution. For starters, adding 2 g/sec to the table before initial start up after a cam can help idle.
VE table for cam: Since a cam is less efficent at idle (for the majority of the aftermarket cam world) the VE table will need to be scaled down in the inital tune to keep some fueling out. Small cams may only need 10% taken out while larger cams can have upwards of 40% taken out of the VE table. This is largely dependent on your cam.
Timing: This depends largely on the cam type. Cams in the 220 duration range can run well on 22-26* of timing, 230 range tend to run well 26-30* range and above that is trial and error as some cams may like 32* while others like 24*. See which helps your car idle the smoothest. I would recommend ADDING to the stock table and not altering the stock curve.
Take the car for a drive and check your idle. If the car goes on cruise control and the idle air is in a reasonable range (0.10-0.20 g/sec) you may need to slightly reduce the throttle cracker table. That table adds airflow while you are cruising and too much will keep the rpms from reducing.
LTFT (VE) TUNING
1: Unplug MAF only if the MAF does NOT contain the IAT. If it does leave it plugged in.
2: Disable the SES lights for MAF codes P0101, P0102, P0103 (No check engine light.) Do not completely disable the codes or the PCM will not fall into SD mode. Only turn off the SES light, DO NOT DISABLE THE CODES THEMSELVES! Copy your high octane table to your low octane table since in SD the low octane table is used.
3: Start up your scanner. Start up your histogram. Now, click File then connect. Go to tools then VCM Controls. Reset Fuel Trims.
4: Drive around for a good 30 minutes after the car is hot trying to hit as many cells as possible and multiple times. It is good practice to set the minimum cell count to at least 25 for more accurate data. The best way to do this is with a wideband o2 but can be done with fuel trims. Doing it with fuel trims can be inaccurate as once PE mode is in effect readings will become off. Setting the PE enable to 75 kPa doing the fuel trim approach will help get more accurate data, above 75 kPa will not be accurate much at all, the wideband is the best method.
5a: Fuel trim approach: Let's say at .800, .28 which is equivalent to 800 RPM's you have 4 which is equal to +4. For ALL YOUR TRIMS you want between 0 and -4, so what I do is do whatever it takes to get to zero. Easy rule of thumb here if you want number smaller, add you want number bigger subtract. So, we want to bring that DOWN to 0 so ADD 4 to .800, .28. Let's say 2.0, .20 is -10, SUBTRACT 10 from 2.0, .20 to bring it UP to 0. This will not work out exactly but will get your PRETTY CLOSE. Do this for all values until everything is between -3 and -5, this will ensure when you go WOT that you will not carry over false positive fuel trims and effect WOT fueling.
5b: wideband approach: log your AFR error, right click on the VE table in the upper left corner, then go to paste special then multiply by %, that was easy wasnt it?
6: Repeat steps 3-5 until ALL values are between 0 and -4. Try and do this all in same day for best results.
ELIMINATING KNOCK RETARD:
Knock retard can come from too much timing, not enough fuel, or way too much fuel. Using a wideband to set up the PE tables accurately to your desired settings can help narrow this to one of the 3 if it is not false knock you are seeing.
A4 TRANSMISSION SETTINGS:
1: Well, you should have already disabled torque management.
2: Start at Edit>Engine>A4 Shift Speed. Look under WOT Shift Enable %TPS: Set it at whatever you like. I set down to 90% because when I floor it I want power quick. Your talkin ga few milliseconds to go from 90 to stock 95% right, LOL.
3: Disable %TPS Set this to about 10 lower from your Enable.
4: Look at WOT Shift RPM vs. Shift. For my STOCK camaro I set to 6000 rpm, cuz if you look at my dyno, it is dropping after 6000rpm so I figured just have it change at 6k. After 6krpm it will take a few hundred more anyways to shift.
5: WOT Shift Speed vs. Shift--In an A4 here is a formula I pulled off ls1tech.com make sure to thank 99ssleeper over there. He posted this:
MPH =
(RPM x Loaded Radius of the real wheel) divided by
(Tranny Gear Ratio x Final Gear Ratio x 168.06
If you have stock wheels and tires, the Loaded Radius is approximately 13.125"...otherwise just measure from the ground to the center of the wheel.
A4 Trans Ratios are
1st..3.06
2nd..1.62
3rd..1.0
4th.. .8
Fianl Gear ratios are 2.73s or the optional 3.23s (RPO GU5 I think...??).
6: Shift Speed vs. %TPS vs. Shift. LEAVE AT STOCK
7: MOVE TO SHIFT PROPERTIES TAB
8: Look at Desired Shift Time. Click on Normal FORGET about performance if you are driving a camaro. There is no performance in a camaro, LOL. I basically guessed here, and could use some input here. For the first half of
the torque band, I set shift time to .500 so you get nice soft, smooth shifts. Starting about midway, I decreased to .250 and for last 1/4 I changed to .100. I heard you do not want to go below .100 or else you will run into some kind of gear crossing? Please feel free to fill in here.
9: Shift Pressure-Ok this is kind of weird and don't understand it, but what I PERSONALLY did was again take half of chart and to the left. Take this and set to a LOW # like 10. I have a shift kit in my car, and setting first half gives me nice smooth shifts. You would never know I had a shift kit or torque converter in my car. I then took middle and started beefing up shifts in increments of 10 then increments of 15. By far right of table I have shift pressure up to 90. Now, when you drive my car at 0-1/4 throttle it is SMOOTH. 1/2 throttle, you can feel a nice crisp shift. WOT it chirps tires from 1-2 and 2-3 shifts. NICE and hard.
10: Upshift/Downshift pressure I don't understand. If you do, teach me and I'll update.
11: If you have a shift kit, leave max line pressure at 90. If not you can prob. up to 100.
12: Below, courteousy of Blue_Falcon
If you don't want your torque converter to lockup in x gear, just go under TCC apply in x gear and change all of the values to 256.
13: Transmission tuning DONE.
TURNING OFF REAR O2 SENSORS:
Thank you Keith, HP TUNERS
You'll want to go through the DTC list and find all sensors of both bank 1 and bank 1 that are labeled as Sensor 2.. Sensor 2 indicated the rear sensor (on V8 applications).
You will want to leave the DTC On/Off flag as it is, but will want to set the error mode to "No Error Reported".
CHANGE TUNE FROM AUTO TO MANUAL OR VICE VERSA:
1) Get tune from Bin file repository or somewhere. Copy out of someone with same year car as you if you like.
2) Upload file just as though you would any other file.
3) Enjoy you now have a M6/A4 program.
Now is time to optimize safety and fuel economy. I'm gathering together some ideas, so if you have some please post here, or email me or instant message me thanks.