LC-1 Blinking.

[PurplePiss]

My LC-1 was working fine all day long at the track. Made like 8 passes. Last time I started it to drive home after sitting, the LC-1 continues to blink and never go solid red. It was blinking 8 times, then would go to 2 blinks, then solid for awhile, then start doing the 8 times again. Last time it did this, the next morning when it was cool it started working again. This morning it started doing it again right away. What happened?

[horist]

that's an overheat code (the 8 blinks) (I believe, I don't have the manual readily available) for the LC1 (per the manual and per Innovates website) ... do a search on Innovate's forums website... common w/the LC1 ... mine does it all the time, I just unplug and plug back in after.... don't think I'll be going back to the LC1 though... likely will buy an LM1 over winter (had an LM1, it broke, bought LC1, it's a POS, so going back to LM1)

[PurplePiss]

On the GTO, the only place I could weld in before the cat was very close to the motor. Only about 2 inches before the cat. Essentially right behind the stock 02. Could it have cooked the WBO2 sensor?

[S2H]

its possible....
but that can be several things...

error 8

Sensor Timing error
(typically a damaged
sensor).

1. Sensor overheating.
(The Bosch LSU4.2 is rated
to operate at a sensor
housing temperature of < 900
degrees (measured at the
bung) for maximum accuracy
and control. When this
operating temperature range
is exceeded, the sensor can
no longer be accurately
controlled. )
2. Sensor is damaged

though I have never had a problem on the GTO it is possible that its overheating...
the way to check is to make a heat shield/sink
go get a piece of metal flashing from a hardware store...cut it down to 4x4 inches square
drill a hole for the sensor...
install inbetween the exhaust and the sensor...bend teh edges around teh sensor slightly to give it some side protection as well...

then do a complete sensor recalibration....(might need to do the recalibration with the sensor out of the exhaust and before you install it into the exhaust pipes)...

if you still get the error 8...then you have a fried sensor and you need to figure out why...
if you drove home with it blinking...then you probably have a fried sensor cause it need to be working right to heat properly and will damage easily if teh heater pump isnt on correctly

also on any car with a CAT...I have to use the heat shield/sink.....
cat traps too much heat

[PurplePiss]

That's what I was afraid of. I'll do a free air recal tonight.

Just in case, where is the cheapest place to get a replacement WBO2 sensor?

[S2H]

1stvwparts.com
part # 021 906 262 B

[Casey]

That's what I was afraid of. I'll do a free air recal tonight.

Just in case, where is the cheapest place to get a replacement WBO2 sensor?

You have to follow the heater/free air calibration steps exactly. There is something about a 2 minute period while it warms up and calibrates the sensor.
If you dont wait long enough the cal does not get set correctly and either sets the overheat code on as soon as you plug it in, or when you run it.


In fact until I hooked the LED up, I did not know it was "still doing something" with the calibration and unplugged it early. Bingo on the fail code.......

-Ken

[MeentSS02]

You have to follow the heater/free air calibration steps exactly. There is something about a 2 minute period while it warms up and calibrates the sensor.
If you dont wait long enough the cal does not get set correctly and either sets the overheat code on as soon as you plug it in, or when you run it.


In fact until I hooked the LED up, I did not know it was "still doing something" with the calibration and unplugged it early. Bingo on the fail code.......

-Ken

Yep...the calibration takes a while. That's why I'm glad I have the XD-16 gauge in mine...it actually shows you % complete while it does that. Some people also recommend doing the free air calibration with the car running, but I don't know if it holds any merit.

[S2H]

Yep...the calibration takes a while. That's why I'm glad I have the XD-16 gauge in mine...it actually shows you % complete while it does that. Some people also recommend doing the free air calibration with the car running, but I don't know if it holds any merit.

you really cant do free air calibration with the car running.....has to be in FREE AIR where theres NO EXHAUST fumes

[PurplePiss]

I tried the Free air calibration last night and I kept getting the 8 blinks. The sensor is fried I think. On the GTO there is very little room to mount it before the cat and the cat is located very close to the motor. Guess I need a heat shield then.

I took the sensor out of the exhaust bung and disconnected it from the LC-1. Then turned the LC-1 on and waited 60 seconds, then turned it off. Waited 30 seconds and plugged in the sensor(still hanging in free air). Does it need to be bolted back in? I let it sit there for a long time and it never stopped giving me the 8 blinks. It did get hot though.

[S2H]

sounds like you need no cats

when I do a free air calibration..I just let it hang...no big deal...

and once ts done with calibration..it will either go steady or blink fast reporting an error....
once it does that you either have to power down and hope the blinking goes away or get a new sensor..

when I built my heat shiled I just went to a home depot store and went over to where their roofing materials are..they had some metal flashing made to do corners that was already cut to 4"x8"..then I just cut it in half and bought the appropriate drill bit
....

it was an easy and chap fix for situations like yours...
though you might need to do some custom cutting/shaping of the heat shield to get it up in there on your car...I know its kind of tight in there

[PurplePiss]

I'm not sure if the tip is getting too hot or the entire sensor is. Being that close to the motor, the tip might be getting fried. Innovate makes a bung adaptor which shields the tip but its $89!!!! Yeah right.

I'm going to try and find some sheet copper, if not aluminum.

[MeentSS02]

I'm not sure if the tip is getting too hot or the entire sensor is. Being that close to the motor, the tip might be getting fried. Innovate makes a bung adaptor which shields the tip but its $89!!!! Yeah right.

I'm going to try and find some sheet copper, if not aluminum.

It is a nice piece though...and should be at ~$100 shipped to your door. I've been very happy with mine.

[PurplePiss]

...its a chunk of threaded metal. Did you kill one due to heat and decided you needed that?

[MeentSS02]

It's actually a well-designed chunk of stainless steel...and I actually haven't killed the sensor that this thing originally came with, but since I run the sensor full time in my header collector, I figured it was a good idea.

[WS6FirebirdTA00]

mine did the same thing but it was the POS LC-1 controller.