Ba Xr6t with a bf ecu

[ChopChop]

Hey guys I was wondering if anyone could help me out, I've had ecu issues with my ba Xr6t so I went and got a bf ecu changed the wiring around to suit the bf Pin outs and removed pats with hp tuners. But the problem I'm having now is that the car will only crank over but not fire.

I've checked cam and crank angle sensors and logged failed start attempts in hp tuners and all I can seem to find is that the ecu won't fire injectors, there's no demanded pulse width.

Any ideas?

[misk]

even if you get it running there will be a software mismatch between the bf ecu and the rest of the car.
there is too many wiring differences also, its just not worth the hassle.
just get a ba egas ecu and flash a ba xr6t tune on to it unless you can find a cheap xr6t ecu and pair it to the car with forscan

[ChopChop]

So the LPG and turbo ecus are the same?

[misk]

they will work with a turbo tune on them, yes

[luke111]

I have a ford XH ute with barra conversion. Its a NA motor with bolt on factory turbo setup. First had it running off BA NA ecu now have switched over to BF NA ecu.
I swapped around about a dozen or so wires to get it running. Most for the transmission. I think there was some acc pedal wires were different too.
I run my ecu standalone so it wasn't that hard to get it going.
First question is what DTC's you have?

I am still running BA alternator with no issues. I had to disable many DTC's to get the BF NA ECU to work in my application. I cut&pasted most of the F6 typhoon stuff into my ecu.
The biggest hurdle I had was that the BA tps wasn't happy with the BF ecu. I ended up changing the TPS correlation threshold (I think that's what its called) and it fixed it. It took me weeks to pinpoint the issue with that after logging TPS sensors 1,2. As soon as they stopped mirroring each other it would go into limp mode and fall on its face.

I made a spreadsheet to compare pinout difference between BA & BF. I can email it to you, send me a PM.
its worth it, the BF reflashes in about 50 seconds compared to about 4 1/2 mins on the BA.

[JVK]

Luke are you still running the xh btr auto or is it 5speed manual?

[misk]

when used in a stand alone setup the main differences are the bf alternator com wires replace the 2 ba pedal wires at b28 & b29 which then share 5v on pin b45 and share signal return on b33 instead, the o2 wires are all part of the A plug/engine harness in bf, the bf alternator warning wire replaces the o2 signal wire from ba at b8, bf has an extra knock sensor and all the btr control is through the c plug in bf.

if the b series btr isn't being used, you can actually get a bf ecu working in with all ba looms by just cutting the brown pedal wire on pin b28, a ba ecu will work with bf looms without anything being touched. the few differences like o2 and knock sensor wont stop it actually running but can make the throttle a little funny.

when being used in an actual ba/bf/fg, its the software differences and massively different body loom wiring layout/pinouts that make it not a viable solution.

no idea why you were having dramas with tps stuff, you shouldnt have needed to touch anything as the tps are interchangeable ba - fg with no changes required in the tune and 95% of the actual wiring harness pinouts are the same ba - fg.
when doing standalone/conversion looms and tunes, the pedal settings can cause dramas for no specific reason. just load a different tune and copy all pedal settings and test. is just a matter of finding the right pedal settings.

also, disabling the DTC codes/errors doesn't actually have any effect on any limp mode etc conditions being set. we don't have the ability to just switch off a DTC fmem like is possible in gm tunes.

sorry I rambled so much shit lol but, if anyones going to attempt this, just get a bf engine harness and then modify the B plug loom lol.

[JVK]

Thanks for the info Misk. I started to like the idea of a BF pcm in my BA just for the fact of way shorter flash times. 4mins sucks when making regular changes.

[luke111]

Luke are you still running the xh btr auto or is it 5speed manual?

I am running a heavily modified BF 93LE auto with some AU XR8 97LE internals.

Spreadsheet can be download from my google drive:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1yx...C5BV-gq9mZrtk6

[Zadelyne]

I have a ford XH ute with barra conversion. Its a NA motor with bolt on factory turbo setup. First had it running off BA NA ecu now have switched over to BF NA ecu.
I swapped around about a dozen or so wires to get it running. Most for the transmission. I think there was some acc pedal wires were different too.
I run my ecu standalone so it wasn't that hard to get it going.
First question is what DTC's you have?

I am still running BA alternator with no issues. I had to disable many DTC's to get the BF NA ECU to work in my application. I cut&pasted most of the F6 typhoon stuff into my ecu.
The biggest hurdle I had was that the BA tps wasn't happy with the BF ecu. I ended up changing the TPS correlation threshold (I think that's what its called) and it fixed it. It took me weeks to pinpoint the issue with that after logging TPS sensors 1,2. As soon as they stopped mirroring each other it would go into limp mode and fall on its face.

I made a spreadsheet to compare pinout difference between BA & BF. I can email it to you, send me a PM.
its worth it, the BF reflashes in about 50 seconds compared to about 4 1/2 mins on the BA.

I couldn?t work out how to message you. Do you still happen to have a copy of those pins? If you could still send a copy l would really appreciate it.
[email protected]
Thanks