have a 5.3 with a 226/230 113lsa, stock 80e converter for now. trying to tune the ve table so maf is disabled (also note it didnt make a difference re-enabling the maf)starts great, idles in park great, but when i put it in gear, it goes lean and drops timing to 8*, adds a "load" starts to idle rough wants to die (acts like a manual when you let out of the clutch with out pressing the gas, wants to go but also wants to stall). I've tried every thing i can think of, idle spark, main spark, ve adjustments, idle air adjustments, over/ under spark.and nothing seems to work. if i put it in gear and let off the brake it will slowly pick up speed and clear up on ts own with no throttle.
this isnt my first time tuning a cammed vehicle, but it has me confused. any suggestions? redrocket rtt.hpt
car has a decent camshaft for stock converter auto and idles at 20-25 degrees timing in neutral. with that much idle spark adding spark to assist with load wont work as adding 10 to the current 25 will do little. however adding 10 to an idle spark of 12 degrees will help immensely.
I personally try to get a DBC cammed car especially with stock converter to comfortably idle in neutral at operating temperature with 10-13 degrees timing. with a cam the car physically needs more air to stably idle. ive never had much success using only the IAC motor to do this. I personally open the throttle up with the stopper slightly and reset that position as 0% TPS in the PCM. once it has enough air to idle comfortably in neutral with 10-13 degrees timing you can use the "ingear" spark table and "ingear" base idle airflow table to add air and 6-10degrees spark when its in gear at idle. this will be more than enough to maintain idle target with the extra load.
if the car only just has enough air and needs 25 degrees to idle in neutral it will never idle in gear.
don't be scared to get more aggressive with your idle spark correction tables.
for the love of all things disable your stall saver by zero out both tables. they will only cause head aches and make you chase your tail.
neither of them suggestions helped. but i did notice something els while attempting those changes, after putting it in gear i can hear a scratching/scratching metal on metal sound sound that gets louder as the rpms drop also the truck trys to push throught the brakes harder the farther the rpms drop. it really acts like the converter is trying to lock up like the tcc solenoid is letting fluid by (or vise versa not sure how that works). how possible is that. there isn't any transmission codes currently.
well none of the suggestions have work. i can really tell its the converter now though as i can feel it shuttering around 5-10% throttle and 1200-1500 rpm as the transmission builds enough fluid pressure to completely disengage the torque converter (4l80e uses pressure to unlock the converter, 0 pressure = locked) and it seems to be very common problem with the 4l80e, common enough that sonax makes a new valve to cure the problem. thanks every one for the help.
Bringing back from the dead. Just curious if the torque converter fixed this? I have a 2000 silverado I'm tuning, 5.3 with a chopacabra cam that does the exact same thing as this truck and i was suspecting a failing torque converter.
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