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Thread: Why do I have knock retard?!

  1. #1
    Tuner in Training MaroonMonsterLS1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2017

    Why do I have knock retard?!

    Attached should be my log, my tune, and my layout.
    If I need to attach channel and/or graph layouts let me know.

    2002 LS1 camaro
    3400 stall 4l60e
    230/232 .600/.600 112+3 cam
    Chromoly pushrods, PAC springs, TR6 plugs
    799 heads milled .025, stock port
    Stock crank/rods/pistons
    LS6 intake
    Stock throttle body-ported
    SD tuned
    91 octane pump

    In the log it rips out 4 degrees...and keeps it out. Why? I mean...when it starts to pull has essientially nothing in it for timing. Like 12-14 degrees.
    Peak timing in the tune only touches like 24 or 25 degrees.
    I'm hoping someone can tell me what to look for here. Let me know if you need any more info/details.

  2. #2
    Tuning Addict 5FDP's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Rogers, MN
    See if you have a pending knock sensor code, if you do that will pull the maximum allowed timing and in your case it's 4 degrees. I notice you have set one of the knock sensor codes to "No MIL light", kinda telling me you have had that code come up before.

    It's quite possible that it would pull even more if it was set to the factory spec of 8 degrees. My guess is that either the knock is real and it's more than 4 degrees or a pending knock sensor code is causing it to pull the max timing of 4 degree's.

    You could set the codes to no error reported if you know the sensors work or replace them and the harness to see if it goes away.

    It's also not allowed to remove any timing or change it once it's set because both timing curves are the same. That is part of the stock OS's speed density operating. If you applied the 1 bar speed density enhanced OS you'd gain back the computers ability to use the high/low octane tables as designed.
    2016 Silverado CCSB 5.3/6L80e, not as slow but still heavy.

  3. #3
    Tuner in Training
    Join Date
    May 2019
    yeah...kind of playing with fire here. you need to double check the dtc scenario. but..... at the same time you also have your max retard setting for PE, to 4*. who knows how much it actually wants to pull. and by the looks of your ve histo, you are running pretty rich. you add PE on top of that and you may just have a rich knock. and while it could be false knock, this is usually not the case on 50% of engines out there. having said that... depending on how the engine is set up, the condition of the wiring, sensor age, sensor torque (variables, etc) it may be false. that engine should be able to take more timing without knock in theory. but its hard to say without looking at the engine and exhaust set up. is there any contact between the exhaust and the frame? are the engine mounts new/good?...solid? maybe try lowering the timing table a couple degrees, desensitizing the knock sensors and making a pull, hell throw a crank learn in there somewhere. you need to listen to the engine and try to feel any abnormal vibrations or noises. if it feels ok then add some sensitivity back in. recheck, add timing, repeat. I was always a firm believer in not touching knock sensor settings. but every engine/trans/frame/body is different. you have to figure out what works. none the less, the fact that it hits KR and stays there is no Bueno. you need to revisit you ve and get the numbers closer to 0. then add PE. allow a little more retard during PE in case there is real knock, and you may not need to touch anything else