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Thread: 2.0TFSI Engine build + HPtuners?

  1. #101
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    Quote Originally Posted by AlexOlen View Post
    I extended the aluminum lid to seal up the entire underside of the adapter plate.

    Cheers!
    With all the openings and changes in elevation I figured I would concentrate on keeping the airflow moving, hence the reuse of the sealed corner. That and the U-Turn area are really the only sealed areas on the OEM, so I just matched it using your description of the airflow.

    You did the same by making it all flush. I was actually going to do the same as you did by putting a silicone gasket between the layers (and still might) but once I saw I could get the 2 areas sealed off, I called it good! Not sure how much extraction that the tunnel dip will provide. I'm limited there as mine is a full bore hole a couple mm down from my grinding. So I opted for increasing the velocity to get the most from it. A big 45 degree change would have been nice to use there.

    My adapter actually only had a step on the normal side, so everything on the right is suspended between the tunnel where I ground it flat and the far right where I notched it like you. The "blocker" provides mid support. It's all held tight by the bolts on that side. That's why there is 2 of them over there.

    We'll have to compare notes after I get a few miles on this set-up. I'm sure they'll be close.

    It'll sure be nice to stop seeing as much oil in the can!!

    Ken

  2. #102
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    check out this file, i added some boost duty and request and modified the fueling a little let me know how it feels

    AlexOlen_B8-A4-2LDSG-8K2907115P_0008-Cal_0011.hpt

  3. #103
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    Quote Originally Posted by AlexOlen View Post
    Hi LAGP,

    Real serious build you going on there! Really like some of your solutions. Wish I knew about the water pump housing with electronic thermostat before. Don't know if or how I would be able to incorporate it in my build but I have been looking for a electronic thermostat option for my build.

    How did you seal the hose coupler for the throttle body? I might need to do something similar to mine. Right now I have bonded a strip of silicone rubber sheet to the inside of my coupler to grab on to the 3.0 TFSI throttle body.

    Regarding my crude PCV solution it seems to be working OK for the moment. At least good enough for me to not change it in a near future

    I'll revisit your build thread when I have more time and welcome to the HP tuners community!

    Cheers!!
    /Alex
    Thanks Alex,

    The thermostat opens proportional to the current you supply to it, with a PWM signal it can be operated from 0 to 100% depending on your needs, but to keep things simple I just use a 12 v. switch to open whenever I go in high boost and that drops the temps by 10ยบ C. aprox.

    For the 3.0 TB I tried several ways of fixing the hose but they kept popping under boost, finally I cut the hose end of the 2.0 and had it machined a bit so it fits inside the 3.0 TB, then I put some sealant and a couple of bolts to fix it, that solved the problem.

    I just updated my PCV, now it is basically doing exactly what the OEM was supposed to do but without the reliability issues.
    Crank vapors go up into the first CC for a coarse filtration then there are 2 paths:
    Path1 is for vacuum, here vapors are drawn into a second CC for a fine separation and flow is regulated by a common PCV valve that also acts as a boost check valve. Path 2 is for boost, fumes are dumped into the exhaust instead of the turbo inlet. Both CC have a drain orifice at the bottom to drain any oil collected, finally fresh air is drawn from a filter into the head cover.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by LAGP; 1 Week Ago at 10:26 AM.

  4. #104
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    Hi Alex, could you show how your e-water pump works, sound pretty interesting. From what I read you took the balance shafts out and block the oil passages, but would it be possible to just let the shafts in place without the chain that drives them?

  5. #105
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    Quote Originally Posted by TylerJDubbs View Post
    check out this file, i added some boost duty and request and modified the fueling a little let me know how it feels

    AlexOlen_B8-A4-2LDSG-8K2907115P_0008-Cal_0011.hpt
    Thanks again Tyler!! I'll try it out in a couple of days when my vacation is over.

    Looks like you have changed strategies for EGT control in ECM 14772, I take it it will follow another enrichment strategy now, but I don't understand how

    Thanks,
    Alex
    Last edited by AlexOlen; 1 Week Ago at 04:47 AM.

  6. #106
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    Quote Originally Posted by LAGP View Post
    Hi Alex, could you show how your e-water pump works, sound pretty interesting. From what I read you took the balance shafts out and block the oil passages, but would it be possible to just let the shafts in place without the chain that drives them?
    Correct, you could leave the shafts in and thereby not having to block the oil passages. I admit it was a bit sketchy. I also managed to drill, tap and plug one or two passages that shouldn't be blocked before thinking it thru, like this one:
    Blocking_oil_passage.jpg

    You will at least need to put the bearing carriers for the balance shafts back in order to direct the oil to the correct places, like the turbo.
    I think I also put in the rear bushing of the cold side balance shaft in to block one oil passage. One of the balance shaft bearing carriers need a bushing inside of it if you decide to remove the balance shafts:
    Bearing_carriers.jpg

    I think you also need to plug the other bearing carrier in order not to loose too much oil pressure:
    Blocked_carrier.PNG blocked_carrier_2.jpg

    If you remove the cold side balance shaft you also need to plug the hole in the block where the water pump gear used to be. I found a suitable freeze plug which I jammed in there.

    My balance shafts were really seized and I didn't want to leave old junk in there:
    Seized.jpg

    This is what the pump housing looks like after modification:
    pump_housing.PNG

    And the pierburg pump:
    pump.PNG

    I know it's mounted upside down, which makes it a pain to bleed but I didn't want the feed hose to come in from the back.

    At first I was reading the coolant temp of CAN with an arduino to control the water pump but now I have wired the coolant temp sensor in parallel and are reading that with the arduino. The pump is PWM controlled with a PID routine that also looks at a oil pressure signal to try to predict temperature spikes. I have mounted an extra oil pressure sensor. The intention was to have an extra screen or replace the original one in the car to another one that I have been playing around with to show all fun parameters:
    display.jpg


  7. #107
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    Quote Originally Posted by AlexOlen View Post
    Thanks again Tyler!! I'll try it out in a couple of days when my vacation is over.

    Looks like you have changed strategies for EGT control in ECM 14772, I take it it will follow another enrichment strategy now, but I don't understand how

    Thanks,
    Alex
    With this modification our target AFR will follow [ECM] 14749 and [ECM] 14753 exactly as we request

  8. #108
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    Quote Originally Posted by AlexOlen View Post
    At first I was reading the coolant temp of CAN with an arduino to control the water pump but now I have wired the coolant temp sensor in parallel and are reading that with the arduino. The pump is PWM controlled with a PID routine that also looks at a oil pressure signal to try to predict temperature spikes. I have mounted an extra oil pressure sensor. The intention was to have an extra screen or replace the original one in the car to another one that I have been playing around with to show all fun parameters:
    display.jpg

    Hey... out of curiosity what computer are you using to drive that display and how are you doing the graphics?

    I've been fooling around with getting a Raspberry Pi to drive the OE MMI display, and using Qt and Python to generate displays and show video captured from a camera I want to mount on the front of the car (it already has a backup camera).
    Attached Images Attached Images

  9. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by ELaw View Post
    Hey... out of curiosity what computer are you using to drive that display and how are you doing the graphics?

    I've been fooling around with getting a Raspberry Pi to drive the OE MMI display, and using Qt and Python to generate displays and show video captured from a camera I want to mount on the front of the car (it already has a backup camera).
    Sorry for the extremely delayed answer. It's a 7" TFT LCD touch screen driven by an Arduino Due. I have done most of the graphics in Gimp and some is available in the Arduino library I have been using. But the screen resolution is not that great and it's extremely time consuming.
    I think Raspberry Pi might be easier to work with, but that's just an assumption, I have never played around with Raspberry Pi.

    I came to the point where it was time to test it out in the car and read the CAN bus, but it didn't work. Now I don't know if it's my wiring, something with my circuit boards or if it is my code that isn't working. And since I haven't really figured out a nice way to mount it or how to display the Audi info on it I never got around to start fault tracing. I don't even know where to start
    I would have loved to be able to show the MMI info on my screen and just replace the factory one but I don't think I'm skilled enough to pull that off

  10. #110
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    Spark plugs?

    What plugs are you guys running?
    I am running BKR7EIX right now but I have a set of BKR8EIX (one stage colder) laying around and were thinking that it might be time to update when starting to increase boost.

    I might take a log with the BKR7 once and then swap to the colder once and take a new log when I get around to actually try the new tune I got from Tyler. Don't know if I'll be able to see any difference in the logs but we'll see.

    Cheers,
    Alex