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Thread: Ecoboost Mustang dummy check

  1. #1
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    Ecoboost Mustang dummy check

    So, not really new to tuning, but fairly new to tuning torque based ECMs, mostly just experience with some older ME7 VW/Audi stuff... Otherwise it was really old Nissan ECCS and Megasquit 1.

    Anyway, I've just started working on my 2015 Mustang and just looking for a sanity check to make sure I'm on the right track.

    I'm looking to bump boost, basically trying to get back to the power that the Ford Performance tune gives (since I can't read that as a starting point), I wanted to work on opening the tune up for my catback exhaust (still on stock because of overboost trip when using the FP tune) and bumping the idle RPM for oil burn issues with said catback.

    Looking at the log, I did a few short pulls, builds about 18-20PSI no problem, then at the 7:53:38.114 mark it hits 22.3PSI, which triggers FMEM overboost.
    Given the MCT and RPM, I'm guessing that I'm hitting the LSPI load limit?
    Appears to fall right in the hi/normal table at 2.18/2.15 load and the log is showing 2.173, so is that indeed whats kicking me into FMEM?
    Can I just raise those over my load limit and be ok?

    The MCT is really pushing my comfort zone, it's the stock intercooler and it's a pretty hot day.

    Thanks for any help/suggestions!

    v2.hpt
    log2.hpl

  2. #2
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    Yep, dummy... Revamped a few things, pulled some stuff from the Focus RS... Still was going into FMEM.
    Logged some more, dummy moment... Combustion stability limit was what I was hitting.
    Torque source limit is still comb. stab., but at least it's not going into FMEM.

    *APPEARS* to be able to hold 18-20PSI for as long as I'm in it and feels more or less like the FP tune, though it's a bit more aggressive on the driver demand torque table.

    Happy camper for now. lol

    log5.hpl
    v4.hpt

  3. #3
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    Lost the log that goes with this tune, feels like it's making good clean power.
    I can watch it adding timing while in boost (tops about 23PSI), so it's not knocking on 93 pump gas, though I wouldn't expect it to, since I haven't touched timing.

    The problem I'm having right now, is my OAR (octane) isn't changing at all, it's always 0 in VCM Scanner as well as ForScan.
    Does anyone know if there is a criteria that needs to be met in order for it to start adjusting?
    I'm still waiting for the catalyst readiness monitor to complete, other than that, I have no codes at all (current, history, or permanent), the monitor is the only thing I can think of why it's not adjusting.

    If I can get it to start adjusting to the gas, I can get out of the nominal LSPI limit and make more power... Timing is already using borderline, it's just the air load limit that I'm fighting.
    I know I could just raise the limits more, but I would like to somewhat work with the factory safeties, just in case.

    Edit:
    Found the log file
    Attached Files Attached Files
    Last edited by Seishuku; 3 Weeks Ago at 06:23 PM.

  4. #4
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    Even though I feel I'm just talking to my self here... But can someone please explain this to me?

    First pull from 1:50.566 to 1:51.676 and the next gear pull from 1:52.326 to 1:55.036 (1-2 gear, I think) felt really good, and aside cylinder pressure limit on spark and DD in combustion stability/torque airsource limit in popcorn, all seems pretty normal, though air load is far from desired load. I'm going to guess that's due to combustion stability, which I can't seem to get around, unless there's something that's missing from the 2.3 Mustang definition.

    Where it gets weird, is a 3 gear set from 8:25.411 to 8:32.471 (2-3-4 gears, I think), the numbers aren't much different, other than coolant temp being fully up to temp, but now I'm getting insufficient fuel limits in addition to combustion stability and popcorn, but in the last gear change, it's going into part pedal/part throttle in the middle of the pull! WTF?

    Is there something weird that occurs when only flashing the calibration where issues get compounded? Should I try doing a full flash write?

    Also, how accurate is the injector duty cycle? I think the highest number I saw was about 30%, correct me if I'm wrong, but that's no where near running out of fuel. If there's a way to correct this, that would be awesome.
    Attached Files Attached Files

  5. #5
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    With your octane modifier showing 0.0 and your LSPI Lo Effectiveness being stock, I would guess you're hitting a load limit blended between LSPI Lo and LSPI Nominal. But I'm just learning ecoboosts myself so I could be way off base. I don't know if a LSPI limit would effect Desired Load in the log or not.

    With regard to fuel, you got to remember that the injectors on a DI engine can only squirt during the intake and compression stroke, and even then only after the exhaust valve closes and before the spark plug fires. Your current injection timing clips limit you to about 220 degrees crank angle (or 30% of the engine cycle), which at 6000 rpm is right around the 6 ms pulsewidths you are running so your injectors are definitely close to being maxed out as the tune currently stands. You can play with rail pressure and the injection timing to deliver more fuel if your HPFP can support it. Log fuel rail pressure desired and actual so you can see when your HPFP starts tapping out.

  6. #6
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    Thanks for the insight, that makes sense now that I think about it. I'm used to port injection, didn't really matter when you spray, just how much.

    The octane adjust has been an issue as well, it's *never* moved from 0, I'm running 93 and never see any knock, so I'm not sure why it won't change.
    I do still have catalyst monitor incomplete, that's the only thing I can possibly think of that might be holding it back.
    But from what I understand, the LSPI lo table would be used on positive OAR numbers and I should only be seeing nominal, unless there's some calculation jank going on.
    I guess one way to find out would be to copy and paste nominal on to lo and see what happens.

  7. #7
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    I think knock mode has to be set to global rather than per cylinder for OAR to become active but I'm not sure.

    Below the LSPI load tables are the blending factors which determine the weight of the load tables. There's two active influencers here: the octane modifier (which is fixed at 0 for you it seems), and then the preignition modifier- which I know absolutely nothing about where it comes from or how it's calculated but it could be a contributing factor for you. On my SHO I've only modified the High LSPI table and left Lo and Nominal at stock levels without any issues yet. But I have global knock and my OAR stays at -1 which pushes the ECU towards using the High table.

  8. #8
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    That would kinda make sense for per-cylinder vs global.
    It would be easy enough to test, though the Focus RS and other Mustangs use per-cylinder knock retard and they adjust OAR normally... Could be the out of date programming on my ECU too (still the original version that it got from the factory), I donno.

    I'm still betting that it's because of my cat monitor being incomplete, I've seen other ECUs do odd things when they're still waiting for a full drive cycle to complete.
    I just don't drive the car for that many miles week to week, so it takes FOREVER to complete.

  9. #9
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    Fixed up the fuel rail pressure and widened the injection duration some more, now it's working quite a bit better.
    It's at least hitting the requested air load now for the most part, I'm guess what's holding back my actual torque from the desired torque is likely ignition timing.
    So gotta get OAR working proper.

    Feels pretty good on the butt-dyno, should do a 1/4 mile pull and see where I'm at... Should be quite a bit better than stock now.
    Attached Files Attached Files

  10. #10
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    Set LSPI Lo back to stock and it definitely appears to be blending partly between lo and nominal, max load I can get was about 2.2 vs 2.4 with all the LSPI tables the same (with >2500RPM @ 2.4 load).
    So even though OAR is dead 0.0 (should be straight from nominal only), it's still sampling the lo table for some dumb reason.

    Been trying to drive a little more to get the emissions readiness to set, but just doesn't want to... I'm tempted to do a full KAM clear and start over, but it took forever to get EVAP to set too.

  11. #11
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    Cool glad you got that part figured out. I found preignition modifier is available as a channel for my car, you could trying logging on yours and see what it is doing and whether that explains the shift towards Lo LSPI. Mine stays at zero.

  12. #12
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    I do have that PID, I'll have to do some logging with that and see that it's doing.

    More on the readiness saga, Friday it give up and is claiming that I have an issue with the rear O2... Which I did have an issue in the past, the J extension I have on it wasn't pointing up high enough and some condensation killed the factory original rear O2.
    So I had replaced that and adjusted the elbow and has had cat and O2 readiness set in the past, but it kept getting reset by overboost codes, then EVAP didn't want to set... Basically an endless chain, until now, it's just cat monitor that won't set.

    Unless the sensor died again, I haven't actually been under there to check it yet, it's been way too hot out this week for me to deal with the minor issue. lol

    But I don't know why I just didn't do this in the first place: I already have a cat-less downpipe, why do I still have the cat monitor/DTCs enabled?
    It doesn't need to pass actual emissions here, might as well just disable it.
    Then I can get rid of the rear O2 elbow and hopefully still maintain fore-aft O2 aging compensation, so I should be able to get all monitor set (except for cat, of course).

  13. #13
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    Here's the latest tune, for those interested (no log, it would have been mostly the same as the last one).

    For what it's worth, either A. doing a KAM reset, or B. having "all" emissions readiness set has solved my OAR issue, in just a little bit of driving, it's already at -0.05... So it's moving in the right direction!

    For now, it pulls hard and clean, with OAR working it should only get better.
    I'd say it feels faster than the FRPP tune I had before, only now I can actually have an aftermarket exhaust installed with out overboost codes.

    Never did put any of my mod:
    Generic eBay/Amazon (DNA Motoring, I think) 3" catless downpipe
    Generic eBay/Amazon (Rev9) stainless stock sized catback exhaust
    Generic eBay/Amazon (DNA Motoring) intercooler, gutted intercooler grill shutter
    Forge 007 diverter valve, vented (no real reason, had it from a VW project, found it laying around, didn't want to waste quality)
    FRPP "cold air intake"

    I need to ditch the CAI, it does diddly squat for IATs, the stock air box is *MUCH* better, especially with heat soak. Just needs a high flow filter installed.

    Yeah, it's cheap stuff, though the intercooler is actually pretty decent quality, works really well, and I only had to modify one of the mounting tabs slightly (was a tad too thick), no complaints at $250.
    Exhaust stuff is a bit janky, doesn't fit *quite* right, but again for like $350 total for both catback and downpipe, I don't mind a little extra work getting it fit right.
    Downpipe still needs a little bit of tweaking, it occasionally rattles on the trans crossmember.
    Attached Files Attached Files