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Thread: PSI Conversion stock tune

  1. #1
    Tuner in Training
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    PSI Conversion stock tune

    Just got my HPtuners so I can dig into this ECM and TCM and see what's going on. Wasn't really having any real issues or anything, got the truck running and driving but I have a 2015 Gen V 5.3 with a 6L80 in a 1989 Suburban 2500 and so far it seems to do great for the most part.

    I opened up the tune to see what I thought was a little surprising to me. I want to get opinions before I say what I was concerned about but anyone care to look and see if they notice anything funky? I had sent off the factory ECM and TCM to PSI conversion for them to unlock and let me run standalone but there was some other things changed in there as well.

    STOCK.hpt

  2. #2
    Senior Tuner
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    I would certainly make some changes to it if it were me, but it's a good start. I would certainly disable the virtual flex fuel mode. It's a mostly stock file with VATS disable, DOD Disabled and minor tweaks done. It's a good start for a swap.

  3. #3
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    Thanks for looking. The thing I was thinking was weird was the Power Enrichment is kicking in anything over 1200 rpm and 70% throttle. I agree that it was great to start. I will say this it seemed like it was VERY rich as my LTFT was taking out 20% fuel. I bumped up the RPM to 4K and leaned it out some as it was commanding something very rich. After changing that it seems much more responsive and the LTFT seems more happy.

    I understand it's an art and I'm just learning. Thanks for the input!

  4. #4
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    I could see that it would be rich at WOT. The PE table is stock. I'd target around 12.8:1 AFR at WOT. If it was rich at part throttle, it's likely due to the placement of the MAF and/or the size of the air tube.

  5. #5
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    Here is the MAF. It does it at idle It'll smell really rich and although I don't have cats, I doubt it's supposed to be that rich at idle.

    Here's a pic. I can reorient the intake tube if you think it might make a difference? Let me know your thoughts.

    Thanks again for taking time to look and help.

    Here's the pic:

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/xd3TT5nCamWNHLVE9

    Appreciate this forum!

  6. #6
    Senior Tuner Frost's Avatar
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    I'm not going offsite to look at files you can post here.... but, your nose isn't a wideband, and "it smells rich" gets old (as a tuner) hearing from customers that yank their converters off. Nobody returns a pushmower to Sears (wherever) for "running rich" and think about what you smell like every time you use a small engine (with no cats). This is the same. If your setup is working correctly and it's trimming fuel, then it isn't rich (at idle/cruise, not talking about WOT). If it's not misfiring or having some other issue then the best way to get rid of the smell is cats. That calibration may also get hung up in a (rear) O2 test if you have them deleted that makes it super rich when rolling to a stop (and that test starts and hangs). https://forum.hptuners.com/showthrea...l=1#post435187
    Steve Williams
    TunedbyFrost.com


  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frost View Post
    I'm not going offsite to look at files you can post here.... but, your nose isn't a wideband, and "it smells rich" gets old (as a tuner) hearing from customers that yank their converters off. Nobody returns a pushmower to Sears (wherever) for "running rich" and think about what you smell like every time you use a small engine (with no cats). This is the same. If your setup is working correctly and it's trimming fuel, then it isn't rich (at idle/cruise, not talking about WOT). If it's not misfiring or having some other issue then the best way to get rid of the smell is cats. That calibration may also get hung up in a (rear) O2 test if you have them deleted that makes it super rich when rolling to a stop (and that test starts and hangs). https://forum.hptuners.com/showthrea...l=1#post435187
    Appreciate you taking a minute to look and reply. I know that nobody gets paid coming here and answering questions or helping noobs get started so I appreciate it. I am sure it does get old to hear this from customers, however, I didn't yank the converters off as I did a swap and just happen to not have converters on the build yet. I will for sure be slapping cats on this thing. Trying to do all the little fit and finish things as I'm driving around getting used to it figuring out all the little things wrong.

    I'll see if that trick helps any. Thanks again for the input.

  8. #8
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    IMG_20210726_172039.jpg

    Had a tough time uploading a pic for some reason. Think it was too large.

  9. #9
    MAF sensor located just after a big bend like that will likely cause a skewed and inaccurate MAF signal.

    Try locating it further down the pipe or doing away with that 90 degree bend.

  10. #10
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    So, I haven't been able to mess with the MAF tube or anything yet, but I did throw the little divider things in the engine bay that separate the air cleaner from the engine bay. Not sure it helped any but it's not made for that truck anyway. Time to fab something up.

    Anyway, I started looking into the low octane tables and looking around (I know I might catch flak for this) and decided to copy the high octane table to the low octane table and subtract 4* giving me a little cushion.

    I noticed on the low octane table it was like a 15-20* difference under load at low rpms and that was where I was experiencing the most issues with drivability. I am running a stock setup and not boosted or anything so I'm thinking I should be fine as long as I keep my eyes on Knock Retard and make sure it's not pinging or anything. Here's a couple logs and the tune. Drivability wise it is waaaayyyyy better.

    I'll keep driving and logging and get this hptuners thing figured out lol.

    8-14-21 stock octane table dfco.hpt
    8-18-21.hpl
    8-18-21 #2.hpl