You've heard of "junk science"? That article was full of it: in more ways than one.Originally Posted by ct06gto
You've heard of "junk science"? That article was full of it: in more ways than one.Originally Posted by ct06gto
Always Support Our Troops!
The sad thing is, once it gets to ls1tech everyone reads it as a bible and doesn't want to do anything other than the "recommended" wideband setup. That's one of the many reasons why I don't post on tech anymore
BTW, is the NGK unit easy to make portable? I like how the LM-1 is so easy to just unplug and go to the next car.
'20 AT4
'01 Suburban 2500 Dad Wagon
NGK has a power and a ground wire, that is it. It is very easy. They do not recommend a cig. lighter adaptor, I assume for noise in the system from poor grounding. I am going to test it either way though.
Sulski Performance Tuning
2000 WS6 M6 - LS6 (long block, refreshed top end), 10.8:1 CR, 90 mm ported FAST, Exo-Skel, 227/232 cam, QTP HVMC, EWP, GMMG, 9" w/4.11s
2018 Sierra SLT 5.3L A8 - Airaid intake tube, GM Borla catback, L86 Intake/Ported TB
The NGK unit is one of the easiest to port from vehicle to vehicle. What I would recommend for the power and ground is using battery clips (similar to aligator style clips, but larger) to tap into the vehicles' battery supply. Then all you neeed to do is pull a stock narrow band O2 and replace it with an NTK sensor for use with the NGK unit.
ironically I just installed an LC1 and didn't have any issues lol. The help files on this forum for lc1 are unbelievable, apparently many have had issues with them in the past. I hooked it up and didn't have any voltage offsets or anything, Good stuff imo.
I never had voltage offsets, just after a month or so kept having heater issues.
Sulski Performance Tuning
2000 WS6 M6 - LS6 (long block, refreshed top end), 10.8:1 CR, 90 mm ported FAST, Exo-Skel, 227/232 cam, QTP HVMC, EWP, GMMG, 9" w/4.11s
2018 Sierra SLT 5.3L A8 - Airaid intake tube, GM Borla catback, L86 Intake/Ported TB
Originally Posted by WS6FirebirdTA00
what like the 02 wouldn't do the heat up process normally? bad ground or something?
no bad ground, it was a problem with the innovate controller, it kept throwing an overhead code on the sensor.
Sulski Performance Tuning
2000 WS6 M6 - LS6 (long block, refreshed top end), 10.8:1 CR, 90 mm ported FAST, Exo-Skel, 227/232 cam, QTP HVMC, EWP, GMMG, 9" w/4.11s
2018 Sierra SLT 5.3L A8 - Airaid intake tube, GM Borla catback, L86 Intake/Ported TB
I've noticed on my lc1 now that I have been experimenting with it for awhile that it really seems to have to be hot before it reads accuratly and I don't think the starter heater sequence is enough. When its colder it seems to report leaner conditions where as when its hotter all seems stoich,
Granted I may have missed some fueling table or something but Im in the middle of tuning VE so I'm in open loop, OLFA is 1, but my afterstart enrichment is still active and adding to OLFA so I'm suprised it shows lean to be honest for those first 15 mins or so.
What I've been doing lately is not even logging until 15 minutes worth of driving even if the car is already hot when I start it.
I Like my F.A.S.T. Dual AFR wideband. I'ts simple to use and powers up through the lighter or you can hard wire it if you wish. It has an awsome display and you can watch both 02 banks or average them. I thought it was going to be complicated but once I fugured out the offsets everything fell into place.
Here's a great article about the top 10 tuning tools and includes the F.A.S.T. wideband and HPTuners.........http://www.gmhightechperformance.com.../photo_06.html Now, if we could just talk HPTuners into adding the F.A.S.T. into their S/W life would be great!
97 GMC ext cab, 2002 LS6, MTI G1 cam 228/232-588/575-113, MTI hardened pushrods, Patriot 243 heads, 3200 stall, 85mm Mass air, S&P Type III Headers, 2 1/2" Magnaflow High flow cats, Flowmasters, HPTuners, 4:10 gears, Original Boyds wheels 17X9's front 17X11's rear, East coast customs WS6 ram air hood, 150 shot NOS LS1 set up, 4/5Beltech drop, Caltracs.
I just finished finally getting some runs with the LM1 and NGK, I will post up the stuff from it later tonight.
Sulski Performance Tuning
2000 WS6 M6 - LS6 (long block, refreshed top end), 10.8:1 CR, 90 mm ported FAST, Exo-Skel, 227/232 cam, QTP HVMC, EWP, GMMG, 9" w/4.11s
2018 Sierra SLT 5.3L A8 - Airaid intake tube, GM Borla catback, L86 Intake/Ported TB
Looking forward to your results. As of yesterday i gave up on my lc1 and im trying to get innovate to credit me towards the purchase of a lm1. If not, i will get it replaced for the second time and sell it to buy the ngk or plx.Originally Posted by WS6FirebirdTA00
I'm interested in what you found Mike.... because I'll be in the market for a wideband soon.
Well, had an unexpected refrigerator issue, so I did not have time to put everything together.
In short, I took logs with the both of them and saw the same fueling values. I liked how the NGK was much smoother. Part of this may be the WB sensor for the LM1, as I have had issues with some "noisy" ones in the past. I am going to replace the one on the car with the one I normally use for tuning, which seems to work much better. For the money, I would rather the NGK. I just would install a switch to cut the power to it when not in use. Also, having a nice positive battery lug with another bolt or nut on it would make it much easier to take on and off.
Sulski Performance Tuning
2000 WS6 M6 - LS6 (long block, refreshed top end), 10.8:1 CR, 90 mm ported FAST, Exo-Skel, 227/232 cam, QTP HVMC, EWP, GMMG, 9" w/4.11s
2018 Sierra SLT 5.3L A8 - Airaid intake tube, GM Borla catback, L86 Intake/Ported TB
Are you using the economical Bosch LSU4 sensor or the higher quality NTK sensor? When I did my test (AEM vs NGK) I ended up with similar results. Once I swapped for the more expensive (yet more accurate) NTK sensor, I noticed a difference, and I posted my findings. Mind you, it was not a lab grade experiment, but I have consistently seen better tunes (more accurate AFR) come out from switching to an NTK sensor versus using the Bosch LSU4. Either way, the results are very welcomed.Originally Posted by WS6FirebirdTA00
LM1=Bosch, NGK=NTK
Sulski Performance Tuning
2000 WS6 M6 - LS6 (long block, refreshed top end), 10.8:1 CR, 90 mm ported FAST, Exo-Skel, 227/232 cam, QTP HVMC, EWP, GMMG, 9" w/4.11s
2018 Sierra SLT 5.3L A8 - Airaid intake tube, GM Borla catback, L86 Intake/Ported TB
FJO Racing here, and love it. Great customer support as well.Originally Posted by TXZ0603
MP112 conversion.
2000' Grand Prix GTP
I have had a PLX SM-AFR installed since November, and haven't had a single problem with it. It couldn't be more simple...no configuration, calibration, or anything.
Gerry
06 M6 GTO - L92 Heads - Flowtech AK-47 cam - ported LS3 intake - ported TB - Kooks 1 7/8 - Cats - SVEDE OTR CAI - H-Pipe - Flowmaster Super 40s
I have the LM-1 and am having so much trouble I'm ready to throw it in the trash and buy the NGK. Does anyone have the NGK running to a guage on the pillar?
whats wrong with the LM1?
Sulski Performance Tuning
2000 WS6 M6 - LS6 (long block, refreshed top end), 10.8:1 CR, 90 mm ported FAST, Exo-Skel, 227/232 cam, QTP HVMC, EWP, GMMG, 9" w/4.11s
2018 Sierra SLT 5.3L A8 - Airaid intake tube, GM Borla catback, L86 Intake/Ported TB