I think that BYT is outta town for a few days. Term may check in though.
Email it if you want me to look at it.
I think that BYT is outta town for a few days. Term may check in though.
Email it if you want me to look at it.
Last edited by Iam Broke; 01-28-2010 at 08:54 PM.
'12 Camaro T3 2SS/RS LS3 M6, SLP TVS 2300, Flex Fuel
Got it.![]()
'12 Camaro T3 2SS/RS LS3 M6, SLP TVS 2300, Flex Fuel
This is an absolutely awesome thread. Just thought I'd get that out there.
I've been tuning for quite some time, mainly J-bodies and F-bodies. I must say I've not seen anything like the lnf tuning. I'm really glad someone has taken the time to break down the basics to tuning these things. Thank you.
I do have one question. I am looking at tuning my own 09 Balt SS. Question is if I tune it and if warranty work has to be done and I reflash back to stock will the GM tech have any way of detecting that there was a tune?
2011 Mustang GT (Mamba) RIP - Twin Precision 6466's, 18/25psi, 1286whp
2012 Shelby GT500 (KC) - 2.3L TVS and ALL the goodies
From your other posts, I believe you found your answer? Write entire is your friend for that. Write Calibration for tuning.
'12 Camaro T3 2SS/RS LS3 M6, SLP TVS 2300, Flex Fuel
You would be correct sir. Yeah I just got really anxious to get an answer did a quick search and didn't turn up but the one thread, but after another member linked me to byt's post about it I feel as though I should be fine in the event something goes wrong. Waiting on the 1000 mile mark before doing anything though.
2011 Mustang GT (Mamba) RIP - Twin Precision 6466's, 18/25psi, 1286whp
2012 Shelby GT500 (KC) - 2.3L TVS and ALL the goodies
You should give the motor a lil more break in IMHO.
Im going to update this guide a lil bit too tomorrow or the next day.
Took a couple thousand miles for the oil leaks to appear on my car. I left it bone stock as a rock for 4-5 months to shake it out.
Not that you don't know what you're talking about. You absolutely do, but with the motor that's in my J right now I gave it all 25psi from the Precision 6262sp that's parked on the back at about that mileage point and that motor seems fine. Correct my logic if you would. A motor that is making nearly twice the power at the crank had about a thousand mile break in and is running plenty good, why would the LNF be different?
This is a curiosity thing more than anything else. Not saying that I won't heed you're advice just wondering if you have some insight, which you obviously do, that I might be missing.
2011 Mustang GT (Mamba) RIP - Twin Precision 6466's, 18/25psi, 1286whp
2012 Shelby GT500 (KC) - 2.3L TVS and ALL the goodies
Interesting...I wonder how much power can be had from altering those tables on a larger turbo setup...
08 Cobalt SS - K&N drop in, Muffler Delete, ZZP 3" catless Downpipe, HPTuned
Very nice Dyno resultsI couldn't tell the deference in the first post.
2008 HHR SS 5-speed
HP-Tuned
And adjusted the COT info a lil.
Noticed the exact same thing you mentioned in the original post about the cam angles. Tried having just a lil in there and the car seemed to bog a bit at the top end.
2011 Mustang GT (Mamba) RIP - Twin Precision 6466's, 18/25psi, 1286whp
2012 Shelby GT500 (KC) - 2.3L TVS and ALL the goodies
Mine seems like it bogs a little bit also at around 5K+ Rpm's need more top end power somewhere.
It will pull very hard from 3500-4000 to a little over 5K and then slows downand that in a 3rd gear pull. Which i did get a 6.4 second run this morning
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Last edited by GeoffH; 02-18-2010 at 09:25 PM.
2008 HHR SS 5-speed
HP-Tuned
Just curious.... I had done all the tuning as explained here with great results... everything worked exactly as it was explained, with results better than i expected...
Well then i got to the pill mod.... pulled the line, inserted a .30 mig tip.. put it back on... and went for a drive...
now all my fuel trims are out of whack again... now they are all over the board... sometimes they are high, sometimes low... and man alive... the car rides like a bull with a limp at cruise.... i tried cruise control at 40 mph and the car next to me thought i was thrashing to some heavy metal the way the car was whipping me around....
I know that we are supposed to turn the max torque tables down to make the car more drivable and less jerky at cruise... and it was great before the pill... but now... i am going to have to start wearing a neck brace... that or drop my DALS by 30 in 10-40 tps% and set max torque to 10% in gears 1-4....
is this normal? or did i screw something up somewhere?
(granted... i just put the pill in and took one drive for logging... still have to makes changes to MAF tables and all... maybe that will help some... but yeah... im going to need a neck brace for my next logging run)
oh yeah..... and if any of you are using screw type hose clamps on your charge pipes.... upgrade to t-bolts before you do the pill mod.... i hit 30 psi once and POP! pulled itself right out from under the hose clamp... lucky for me... i have a box of t-bolts waiting to be put on.)
Last edited by ksoggs; 02-18-2010 at 11:06 PM. Reason: forgot something...
I think byt even took out his pill, said his tune wwas faster than the ppill with the tune. I didn't like the pilll, I don't have the cash to be fixing a 30psi spike at such a low rpm with everything else stock. I would like to keep my car intact lol.
The pill was nice but I can't imagine the car will last a long time pushing that small of a turbo that hard. Tends to make a lot of heat. I hope you have a catless downpipe on the car running the pill mod
There is a thread called: taking your pill mod to the next level.
Read that, it will help you setup the Spark tables better as well as the PE and DALs. Then you will want to adjust the MAF trims again for the pill mod.
Hey just a little update to this thread.
I mentioned false knock being pretty crazy on this car, well I've been logging a tank of straight 100 octane gas and guess what, it's still showing about the same amount of KR as when I was running 91 octane in it. Has anyone got a handle on what to do about it? Most of it is only showing 3 degrees retard, and I'm not sure it's actually pulling timing. I have heard knock on this engine, but it was in some of my early tunes and I haven't heard any audible knock in weeks. I'm not sure I like the idea of just ignoring it, that goes against how I've tuned other motors/ ECM's. I'd really like to adjust these knock sensors, is there any chance of getting those tables added into the beta? (It would be awesome to be able to have more control over timing too, like decel or dfco timing, hint hint Bill
I'm thinking about pulling the sensors and putting teflon tape around the threads but I'm not thrilled about that kind of solution.
Last edited by gmtech16450yz; 03-01-2010 at 01:33 AM.