Z06 O2 sensor

[hobbesnmina2001]

I am trying to set up an LM1 to imitate narrow band on my 2002 Z06. The sensor has 4 wires, 2 brown, 1 light brown or tan, and a purple. The light brown shows 12 volts with the ignition key on which according to Innovate instructions should be the heater power wire. Two more wires should be a heater ground and a sensor ground and one more would be the sensor element connection.
I am trying to figure out the sensor element and being thrown off because according to Innovate instructions on a 3 wire sensor which they say to follow if one has a 4 wire they suggest the ground connection has less then 1 ohm resistance. When I tested the sensor wires with the ohm meter it was the light brown wire on the sensor pigtail that showed less then 1 ohm between the connector end and sensor threads. The others showed an open continuity? I need to figure out the sensor wires and any help or direction would be great.
When I checked the Service manual schematics it shows up as a 3 wire even though I input the serial number.

Thanks

Carlos

[camaro1]

use the purple(pin b) for your signal wire, the tan(pin a) for ground and leave both the brown(pin d) and black(pin c) wires disconnected and turn off all dtc's related to that o2 sensors heater circuit/performance

2002 corvette o2 sensor pinout:
pin A= tan/wht, signal ground
pin B= ppl/wht, sensor signal
pin C= blk, heater ground
pin D=brn, heater power

[hobbesnmina2001]

Camaro 1,
thanks for the quick response!

Carlos

[hobbesnmina2001]

I don't have extended periods of time I can just devote to tuning, so I have to do it in shorter periods meaning its going to maybe take some time to get the VE MAF tuning in.

Any tips on how to best keep the connections dry if using this or an LC-1 for a longer period of time? The GM Service Manual for the stock sensors says not to cut, or solder or modify in any way...of course, but I was thinking for hooking up the LM-1 since it's not factory to use the pig tail cut off and soldered and heat shrink sealed to keep moisture out, then tape shut the ends I will not use. The car has 23,000 miles so the narrow bands are not that bad but I am willing to sacrifice one for the pigtail if necessary. The second choice would be to see if Radio Shack has the spades and try to electrical tape everything but I just think it would not be nearly as moisture proof. Being in WNY we get a lot of rain and moisture.
Ideas, advice?

Thanks

Carlos

[hobbesnmina2001]

Got the sensor in yesterday and the narrow band simulation seems to be pretty close. Made a couple of logs today with ~33% ethanol in the tank and made a VE adjustment based on the logs VE AFR error.
I put the modified VE tune back in (everything else like before these fueling changes) with the O2 sensor DTC disconnected due to the LM1 still there and wanting the changes to settle in to the tune before doing more. I thought I would see where the LTFT's settle.
Question: If I was to install an LC-1 (smaller) or leave the LM-1 would I have to keep all the O2 DTC's off or just the heat sensor part for #1 bank lead sensor since I installed it in the left bank?

[KFZ)^]

My advice would be to leave the factory O2 sensors and their connectors alone and have an additional O2 bung welded in. That way, the factory stuff is intact and you can put the bung upstream of the cats for a better wideband reading. I personally wouldn't take an upstream factory O2 out of it's position. Downstream of the cats, yes, but the front 2 O2's are too crucial to the PCM to try and use the narrowband emulation of a wideband.
Just my humble opinion, best of luck with whatever method you choose.
FYI, you can purchase OEM-style "weatherpack" connectors from an appropriate vendor.

[hobbesnmina2001]

Thanks for your input KFZ. Do you know if the cat up stream metal is like the regular cars or is it titanium? I had the mid section out before its not hard but not sure if I could weld on bung on that part.
Who sells OEM weather pack connectors? What I did was sacrifice my NB sensor and bought a new one to replace it later on.

Thanks

Carlos

[Billf6531]

The metal is not Ti, but it is double-walled, so drill a hole at the proper angle so the sensor tip will point down, and weld in the bung. Gently thread in the sensor to ensure it doesn't bind on anything. When I did mine, I had to insert a carbide tip on a die-grinder to remove some weld/chips/flashing that prevented the sensor from threading in completely. I put bungs on both sides, but after much tuning, I now use the one on the driver's side, only.

Good luck.

[hobbesnmina2001]

The metal is not Ti, but it is double-walled, so drill a hole at the proper angle so the sensor tip will point down, and weld in the bung. Gently thread in the sensor to ensure it doesn't bind on anything. When I did mine, I had to insert a carbide tip on a die-grinder to remove some weld/chips/flashing that prevented the sensor from threading in completely. I put bungs on both sides, but after much tuning, I now use the one on the driver's side, only.

Good luck.

Bill, thanks for the tips. I know too it's not a bad idea to clean the threads with a tap after welding too, had one bung before that ended up binding closed super tight!

Thanks and take care.

Carlos