used some of toms tables and took out some timing and got this
fuel trims still drop off though after the pull but are constant in between -3 and 0 other then that part, and i always adjust them so idk whats up there
used some of toms tables and took out some timing and got this
fuel trims still drop off though after the pull but are constant in between -3 and 0 other then that part, and i always adjust them so idk whats up there
lookkin better keep it goin
2000 Ford Mustang - Top Sportsman
my boost looks not even close to smooth though, what table should i use to smooth both im gonna do it tonight, dal or duty cycle correction?
Last edited by Dayhoff35; 07-13-2011 at 11:19 PM.
looks like you may be overboosting after you start the run see where the orange and white lines are totally flat? i think you are hitting the limit of the map sensors and thats why the line is flat. why dont you put the custom pid [PID.2338.PSI]-[PID.51.PSI] that should give you actual. my car was doing the same thing at first, actual boost was almost 30psi when i did gm sensors and tune. post up your scanner log
Last edited by '09SS; 07-14-2011 at 10:02 AM.
'09 cobalt ss. hahn intercooler, intake, cp,catless downpipe, ottp stage 2 mounts, hptuners, gmpp 3bar tmap sensors, hybrid hp tuned
i dont have gms1, but it might be maxed out, i cant post it up now because im at work but the pid waas using was one posted on here a while ago, which was a pid-16.7 or something like that i cant remember exactly. Ill try that one out when i get home. Thanks.
Someone else gave me the same PID configuration but I'm curious if it will provide any different result than [PID.2338.PSI]-[PID.2340.PSI]? Is there any difference between BARO Sensor and Barometric Pressure (SAE)?
The only reason I ask is that I didn't have Barometric Pressure in the list before my last logging session. Only BARO sensor was activated so I can't change the PID retroactively and see it in the log files.
dayhoff set if you set the dals to well say for example 300 down the right column you can go into the wastegate dc% correction table and change the settings there to controll boost.
it works very smooth for me. start with the wg numbers very low so you dont overboost then raise them slowly until you get (1) no boost spike @ 3k area (2) a nice flat line reading 255kpa (which is 23psi on lnf map sensor)
this method works for me very well and i have no problem adjusting it up to a smooth 25psi. i have gms1, but still the tuning theory behind it works the same.
Last edited by cobaltssoverbooster; 07-15-2011 at 10:52 PM.
2000 Ford Mustang - Top Sportsman
ok i will try that tomorrow, went to the track for the first time in my life lol, was fun and adicting. I failed at launching the car though but i guess not bad for my first time. Heres the numbers.
r/t .363
60' 2.667
330 6.594
1/8 9.573
mph 83.54
1000 12.060
1/4 14.128
mph 109.96
well, been a while but im done trying to max out the car hit a 4.43 60-100 on e and thats all it will do no matter what. Time to back it back down a bit i guess it was fun.
also could not get the boost to stop dying hard at like 5k rpms, i had wgdc maxed out so i dont think theres anything i can do, but any suggestions?
Last edited by Dayhoff35; 08-10-2011 at 07:45 AM.
Big turbo. That's all she's got Cap'n.
'12 Camaro T3 2SS/RS LS3 M6, SLP TVS 2300, Flex Fuel
yeah or a new car lol, depending on how much zzps is i might pick up the bolt on efr dunno yet
if you ramp it up a lil slower and get it to hold flatter, it will hold a lil longer. when the boost fluctuates up and down like that it will lose some steam and taper off quicker.
they dont really boost well past 5250 rpm.
you might want to work on the torque management controlls for first gear that alone can quicken your time by eliminating the pedal fest in first.
only thing is if you go to drag radials some time you may have to turn them back up to make use of the waterbox.
the last screen shot you got you had low timing curve you gots a better curve now on your most recent tune?
Last edited by cobaltssoverbooster; 08-12-2011 at 06:52 PM.
2000 Ford Mustang - Top Sportsman
I hold my desired boost flat til over 6k and then it tapers off to 19-20psi at redline. Letting it taper off is just fine, doesn't mean you won't make power there. When boost falls off, increase timing
yep yep im having a timing issue but i believe its maf cal related its bothering me
2000 Ford Mustang - Top Sportsman
thanks nick, since my last post i messed with the lower rpm timing from where i start my 60 pull and got some good results. Boost still died, but held longer so im gonna have to mess with it a little more, but it ripped a 4.2 60-100 so im happy with it. Might back it down until i get meth or just be easy on it.
im also getting some random flutter at low loads like when i speed up slowly and shift out of first maybe 1/10 times it will do it and random times when i let of cruising?
Last edited by Dayhoff35; 08-16-2011 at 03:05 PM.
yeah that was a real old file and before e47, it looks better now. Also with that time slip it was the first time i ever went to the track and only got 3 runs in, and everytime i went to launch the car it just fell on its face, then held traction all the way through 1st and 2nd. Ill just have to ease off the line next time and then get on it. However on e47 my kdws dont hook until i get to 3rd so we'll see what happens next time, but yeah i need radials.
i had m/t before mine died dont remember what i ran.
2000 Ford Mustang - Top Sportsman
new log screenies
i hae how hp tuners skips over 100 sometimes... so i just took it to the ast spot where it was at 99.
btw dont mind my messed up boost pid lol i changed it
doesnt look like its overboosting at initial spool good job. 28 lbs min pretty good timing is smooth...i like it
2000 Ford Mustang - Top Sportsman