try jumping the power from the battery to the coil and put a 10-15 amp fuse on it.. see if it fires. if yes rewire that power wire. if no hum... thinking bout it...
Well the thing that's odd is we put a '06 harness on the truck that we know worked fine when we pulled it off the truck it was on. Wanted to rule out a harness short problem or whatever.
'20 AT4
'01 Suburban 2500 Dad Wagon
plugs all look good. I traced all the other coil wires and they're good too. I would find it weird that we would have 3 bad PCM's, but after all of this you never know I guess.
The header primaries are what's red hot, they're sparking good I just dunno why those two would have increased heat in the primary.
'20 AT4
'01 Suburban 2500 Dad Wagon
yeah true that's probably the only thing we hadn't tried yet honestly. I'll tell Zach about it, and maybe we'll try it tonight or tomorrow.
'20 AT4
'01 Suburban 2500 Dad Wagon
I'm pulling this thread back up because I'm in a similar situation.
jakebdb56, did you ever figure this one out? If so, what happened?
Well, long story short, the cylinder that wasn't firing was because the valve was bent. The fuel apparently shorted the spark, so that's why it wouldn't show up as igniting through a timing light. The owner pulled the heads and got them fixed. After that, truck worked fine. It's been a while ago now that this all happened. Since then he put a schwanke 8.5:1 427 in it with a single front mount 78mm borg warner. First gear is useless, makes 700rwhp at 10psi 17* and 11.5:1 afr, ultra conservative for his heavy foot lol
'20 AT4
'01 Suburban 2500 Dad Wagon
Thank you for the follow up.
My car was driving perfect for a year and all of a sudden, Pooooop. Misfiring, sputters, etc... I just can't figure it out.
Correct, but I was not referring to a plug wire. I was referring to the coil power and ground for that comment. I was under the impression that the power side of the coil was red hot and that would make me think that the ground was not good and or a short to ground was to blame. With much resistance on the ground the power side would get hot and as you stated with to much it would not fire.
jakebdb56
Happy to see you got it corrected! I just had a similiar issue with a civic, figured out the customer put in iridium plugs and did not gap them yet no ign breakup. The gap was set @ 40.. dropped it to 28 and picked up 156hp for a total of 608hp on 23lbs of boost. It was funny but I had three people standing on the front end and had to make the pulls in 4th to get traction on the dyno (with stickys).
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google,your thinking is foggy.a weak or open ground will not heat the power side. a short to ground (low resistance)would.
Word. Have you tried running independent coils on any of the imports? One of my best friends has a 7M supra but with a 1JZGTE swap in it. Went to a stinger standalone (still with wasted spark though ) to get it all running right. Tuned it, but the tip in towards boost would break up the spark bad above 20psi. The ECU runs a dumb coil signal, so I said screw it and brewed up a LS coil swap, sooooooooo much better. I can't even describe the change other than it being a whole new car lol. Just the ignition upgrade was at least 30-40rwhp on the butt dyno. Anyways, figured I'd throw that out there since we're talking ignition, well worth it!
Last edited by jakebdb56; 07-26-2011 at 11:31 AM.
'20 AT4
'01 Suburban 2500 Dad Wagon