Need tuning help for a 5th Inj.

[extremevx]

I didnt take any pictures of the head after it was done. But I can describe it. Basically, the short side radius was is a gradual radius from the floor to the seat like you would see in any typical head job. Wish I would have known sooner and did a little more research. But. whats done is done. I'll have to live with what I got. As Freakotec noticed, it doesnt spool up very quickly. Its basically a dog until you get it up to about 3500rpms. Kind of reminds me of the crotchrockets I used to have where you had to rev the crap out of them to get them to go. Definitly going to have to see about changing the shift patterns in the transmission to shift at a higher rpm now.

[cobaltssoverbooster]

This is ported u can see the di hole above the intake valve seat.


This was stock

[extremevx]

SO, that was your head. I have a confession to make then. Back in September of last year when I took my head to my friend that has experience in porting Honda heads, I gave him a thumb drive with these pics for reference. My ports look almost identical to yours, alot smoother though, but Im sure these pics are of them roughed in before you went to polishing on them. Mine were even gasket matched using the gasket as a template for not only the head, but the intake and exhaust manifolds too.

Ive backed my DALS down to 255 in the far right two columns and Im going to start at 80% WG DC in the 90-100 load columns and see what that gives me and then walk it in from there. I watched your video on boost control to brush up.

[extremevx]

OK.. I pulled back on the DALS and the WGDC. Only boosting to around 22psi. and sometimes will spike in a cell to 25. I brought up the Fuel Pressure to 2400psi tops, and also brought it up about 400psi in the middle of the table where I was getting the misfires. Seems to be running ok. I would like to be able to boost more between 2000 to 4000 rpm. It doesnt seem to really want to boost unless Im at over 3500rpm and at 100%ETC. Will check the wastegate rod in the morning. I believe its supposed to be preloaded at 2mm, which is two turns on the nut...I beleive.

[cobaltssoverbooster]

try retarding the timing in the 2000 range some......this delays ignition to allow the gas expansion to happen later and possibly into the exhauset stroke as it finishes helping the turbo spool.
in the 3k up range you will have to play with the exhaust camshaft. once you get it spooling as soon as possible you will have to optimize the trq on a dyno by moving the intake to gain max trq then slightly adjust the exhaust to perfect spool and trq readings.

[extremevx]

Will decreasing overlap in the cruising range cause the engine to run hotter? It seems so to me.

I blew and exhaust gasket between the turbine housing and the exhaust manifold. I put a new one in and now I have alot more power in the 2000-3500rpm range now. Guess I was leaking so alot of exhaust energy that could have been driving the turbo. alot more boost now, so Im backing od on the DALS and WGDC even further.

[cobaltssoverbooster]

Decrease In overlap will cause heat to increase

[extremevx]

I remember you saying something to that effect in your video on e85. I'm running 210-212 and its 65 outside. Power came up alot in the midrange, but I may need to increase the overlap abit to help cool the combustion chamber.

[extremevx]

For some reason now, I cant get Boost to get over 20psi or my airload to get over 225. I went to adjust boost as per the videos, I brought all the Dals in the right column down to 255 and the WGDC down to 70. I started to bring in the DALS to adjust boost and I can only get 20psi. Ive now got the DALS maxed out at 300 and the WGDC at 100 and I still cant get the boost or the Airload to come over 225. Im barely even hitting the load cells in the 190 column of my MAF CORR table anymore.

Here's my log.

[extremevx]

Was only getting 12psi to the HPFP. Pulled the in tank Fuel pump which is a Deatsch werks unit that I had installed over the winter. The rubber hose connecting the pump to the pressure regulator had come off and was barely held onto the nipple by tension from the U-tube assy. Put it back on and tightened the hell out of the hose clamp. All is good now.