Originally Posted by
Russ K
02pewterz28
I looked over your tune, and there are many things I would do very different. Your cold temp idle speed was too low, idle airflow adapts messed up, stall protect was disabled, throttle cracker tables and many more. Just compare my tune to your last and stock tune to see the number of differences (157 compared to your last tune)
Plus way over advanced Main Spark tables, 28-29* WOT spark timing is a recipe for broken ring lands, plus your not making any more power. But you might gain on a dyno and I've retuned "dyno tuned" cars that you couldn't drive in 6th at highway speeds as they were pinging badly. And your spark retard attack rate was reduced by ~20%.
So you can load this tune into your car. Then you need to first adjust the Maf table to a least get your low load fuel trims closer and slightly negative before dialing in the RAF table.
Next you need to adjust the stop screw to get the IAC counts to 20-40 at operating temp. Then finally do a cold start idle scan till operating temps, don't move the car or touch the throttle. And will probably have to lower the RAF from stock, but that's a better option then having to hold the throttle on a cold start.
Your cam only has 3* overlap, so it shouldn't be this hard to tune.
Russ Kemp