80e seg swap down shiting to 1st gear at any speed?

[runsfromdacops]

that would be fine with me.
when in d4 now the all the partial throttle stuff is fine.
i can just down shift when i want to hit it.

what tables control the shift when the shifter is in d3 d2 d1?
if i go this route should i move the wot shift limit from 50 to 100 or more % so it wont reference the wot shift tables that arnt working right?

[runsfromdacops]

one more odd thing to add.
if i downshift for d4>d1 at above 33mph it wont shift to 1st untill im under 33mph (which is exactly what the table is set to) whats the deal here it works for some set points but not others?

[Ranger6202]

'0' all of your upshift tables, and then max all of your down shift tables. Your Urban table should be maxxed too as its your safety table.

[Ranger6202]

your normal D1 table should have the upshifts maxxed and the downshifts '0'd also.

[Ranger6202]

Had an idea tonight, can you tell me what color the wires are going to the VSS on your tail shaft? And inversely, what color are the wires going to the ISS. Hopefully Speartech kept the wires matching OEM, if not, ill need you to chase them to the pins @ the ecm.

[runsfromdacops]

ill look at some point this week.

on a side note i noticed that with my modified vss/rpm table the iss shows 150% verter slip. and should show about 110% slip with the "correct vss/rpm #s"

on the flip side of that the d1 down shift table is at 33mph and the car holds to that. it will not down shift until atelest 33.
how is the car following some tables but not others?

i emailed support to get some help/idea of whats going on here and only got a back a "we dont provide tune help" email... i was more thinking that seg swap could be to blame but HPT has no interest in looking into it at all

[Ranger6202]

I'm pretty frustrated along with you. I have read and read and searched and searched wiring diagrams, pinouts, ctsv speedo issues....etc....... The numbers that ARE SUPPOSE to work are not working. I've done close to 10 speedo changes either due to tire swaps or trans changes and the numbers always work. Even the two swaps with idler gears on the speedo cable driven pulse generators had numbers line up.
So........ Going back through the posts on page 1, you were pretty close to it functioning. Your idea of having your speedometer calibrated first, and then going back and fudging the trans output revolution number to match transmission shift function is what i think will still be your best bet. If you get your speedo dialed in, that will be done and to be left alone, it should never waiver from then on. I would then set your RPM shift to 1000 across the board for all gears, and then set your speed shifts to exactly the same across the board for all TPS to help you dial in your trans output revolutions.
For example: so for your 1>2 shift, set it at like 20 for all TPS%, 2>3 would be set at like 30 and so on. Take it for an easy Sunday drive, and get an idea of what % off it is shifting at. It should keep the same shift MPH to RPM relationship in every gear, even if its not at the desired speed. If 1>2 is suppose to hit 20 and it's hitting 32, it should hit 32 every time it shifts into 2nd, take note if the RPMS are consistent also for future reference of any other possible issues. From there, start adjusting the Trans Revolutions till the shifts match the desired MPH. If you happen to be hitting the limiters while "Sunday driving", lower all the speeds. We're just trying to get a relative relationship between VSS pulses and Trans revolutions. If the normal driving starts hitting all the commanded spots consistently, then WOT "should" fall right into place.
Honestly give this a try and get me some good data. To me.....the results will be the fork in the road.

[runsfromdacops]

i like where you are going with this.

i do have it close to shifting at the mph i want but not the value in the table.
i think that seting a standerd mph and ajusting the tranny res per mile table to suit is a great idea

[runsfromdacops]

i havent messed with the tables yet but i did fix some stuff

i found 2 wires that were swapped at the pcm. green 8 and 6.

dosnt seem to change any thing when i drove it.

another thing i noticed today was the with my moddifed vss/ppm #s i can get it to shift but the computer knows somthing is up. my vertter slip is at 150% so i know the vss senor is reading right and the 118000 ppm should work but it does not

[runsfromdacops]

still no light at the end of this tunnel,
im still shocked that im the only one to have this issue..
im thinking of going back to the stock 65e tune that was on the pcm (04 yukon) and add the relay to run the 80e.
its that or im going to buy the manual box from jakes just so i can have some fun in the car

[runsfromdacops]

UPDATE!!!!!
so i solved the mystery

the reloctor wheel for the vss is not in the 80e
this is was a converted 4x4 trany and the drum didnt get the ring pressed on.
what has been going on is the vss sensor is reading the parking brake lugs on the outside of the last drum. they are very close to where the ring should go.
all i had to do is change the reluctor wheel teeth count in the tune from 40-->21(parking brake tooth count) and reclalculate the ppm/rpm stuff and we are good to go.
drive just like a stock car now with no fudged #s

yes i will pull the tranny out and fix it later this year but for now it works great!!!!
thank you guys for all the help

-alex